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Senior Specialist, Head of Sale,

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Jewellery

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eviolante@phillips.com

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Viewing 6 - 12 December 2022
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Vivienne Becker sits down with the design duo of David Michael Jewels to find out.","THE TWIN SET","body","

Twins David and Michael Robinson form the creative team of David Michael Jewels, based on the Gold Coast of Australia.

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Together, New Zealand-born identical twin brothers David and Michael Robinson, create David Michael Jewels — individualistic, soulful, hand-crafted, one-of-a-kind High Jewelry creations that are fast attracting a band of devoted international collectors and connoisseurs. Astonishingly, the brothers are both completely self-taught, and they make every jewel themselves, completely by hand from design and gouaches, through goldsmithing, stone-setting and stone carving, to the hand-painting miniatures on mother-of-pearl for their spectacular Seasons series. They remain in Australia, in the Gold Coast atelier that they set up initially with their father in 2015, the year when David Michael Jewels was launched.

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Designed as a cherry blossom branch, the pair of ‘Blossom’ earrings by David Michael is accented with brilliant-cut pink and yellow tint colored diamonds. Lot 93, Estimate: US $15,000 - 25,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December.

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Vivienne Becker: How is it working with a twin brother? Can you describe your working relationship, the dynamic between you?

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Michael Robinson: We’re very proud to be twin brothers working together, and I think it’s probably unique in the industry. There’s just 4 minutes between us — I’m the older one — and our collaboration is effortless. As boys, we developed our own language to talk to each other, and I always knew what he was thinking and still do.

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David Robinson: It’s great, we work reasonably independently on the pieces we are making, but also work well together when Michael wants a little input on something, or if I’m looking for an opinion. Because we’ve always worked so closely together, we speak the same language. I’m sure being identical twins makes us a lot closer than just co-workers. We know it’s not a competitive thing and that we both just want to support each other.

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Vivienne: How did you learn to make jewelry?

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Michael: Neither of us had any formal training. Our father had a retail jewelry business with a workshop, and I was just 4 when I started going to work with him. I’ve always loved playing with tools, loved making things, sculpting, drawing, painting. Growing up around jewelry, I thought perhaps I could be a jewelry artist.

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I made a model railway and sold it to buy my first bench and tools when I was 14. I started making silver trinkets. Seven years ago, when our father retired, we moved, as a family, from New Zealand to Australia, and started making our own jewelry, at first with our father supervising, and now it’s just the two of us. We make very few jewels in a year.

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David: I think that’s a very New Zealand kind of thing. I just did. I’ve always enjoyed making things, even as a kid, so it always felt very natural to guide the hand skills I had learned into shaping precious metals.

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David and Michael Robinson take a very personal and skilled approach to jewels, making every piece themselves, completely by hand, in their atelier.

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Vivienne: What is your specialist technique?

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Michael: I taught myself how to do everything, even stone-setting. I do all the drawing, sketching and watercolor rendering. There is no outside contracting at all. We don’t use computers, no CAD, and everything is hand forged. Honestly, I find it demoralizing to give the work, our ideas, to someone else to make. It gives me an empty feeling, while crafting our jewels and bringing our own visions to life gives me a sense of accomplishment. And then there’s no risk of someone else not quite interpreting the design as you envisage it.

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David: I’d have to say hand forging, I really enjoy taking blocks or sheets of raw metal and bending and shaping them into complex forms.

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Every David Michael jewel starts with a piece of paper before bringing their ideas to life.

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Vivienne: How do you divide the work? And who has the design ideas?

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Michael: David tells me his ideas and concepts and I put them down on paper. We go off and make our own pieces, individually and independently, unifying our style and statements along the way.

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David: We both hand make our own pieces. There is some collaboration often on design, but not always. I guess there are no rules really, we just make beautiful things. Michael does the rendering and most of the gem setting, and I do all of our photography and website. We both have design ideas, mine tend to be more in my head and are a little more fluid. I design as I create, whereas Michael works his designs out on paper first.

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Vivienne: What are your guiding inspirations?

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Michael: I’d say antique jewelry is always my first inspiration, especially for its craftsmanship. I love Lalique and the vibrancy of Art Deco jewelry. I’m also very much inspired by the bright neon colors of my youth. I grew up in the 80’s with street art and super colorful skateboard art. I remember seeing the Tiffany diamond as a young teenager. It was set in Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock at the time, and I love how such a historically precious gem was treated so playfully. That spirit has always stuck with me.

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David: I’d have to say I’m probably most inspired by clean lines and mechanical objects, but no one thing drives me. I also have an affinity towards nature and our environment, and so I am constantly revisiting natural and organic inspiration objects. Our workshop is on the east coast of Australia. The Gold Coast is in the south east of Queensland and delivers an endless summer and beautiful beaches, foliage and amazing creatures both big and small.

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The organic shape of a Spinel, Spessartite Garnet and Diamond ring by David Michael sits delicately on the hand. Lot 94, Estimate: US $55,000 - 75,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December. Wardrobe @monicabyrnemaison

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Vivienne: Is there a difference in style, approach, design aesthetic between you?

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Michael: My style is more romantic, with a softer, more feminine look. My brother is more mechanical, and prefers cleaner lines. David always loved mechanical watches. The two different styles harmonize perfectly, like yin and yang.

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David: I think there is, but there’s enough of a common aesthetic that you probably couldn’t notice the difference.

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Vivienne: Are you inspired by history or modernity? Or both?

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Michael: We both love history. I have enormous respect for the craft and history of jewelry-making. I believe a knowledge of the past is vital, re-interpreting while adding modernity. Our Seasons jewels are inspired by Lalique, who created a series of jewels representing the different seasons. We have made a Summer and a Winter Pond brooch, each with a miniature depicting koi carp hand-painted in oils on mother-of-pearl, swimming in a portrait-cut pool, one of icy included rock crystal, for winter, aquamarine for summer. I’m working on Autumn now with the pond of smoky quartz; the Fall is so great. We both love to concentrate on the tiniest details.

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David: History, most things used to be so special and well made, and the handmaking techniques themselves were so amazing. History is always inspiring to me. I particularly like Art Deco.

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A Pair of Heliodor, Gem-set and Colored Diamond Earrings by David Michael makes for an eye-catching jewel. Lot 95, Estimate: US $20,000 - 30,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December. Wardrobe @monicabyrnemaison

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Vivienne: What is your favorite gemstone?

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Michael: My favorite gemstone is always the one I’m currently working on. I love them all.

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David: I do love a really nice Imperial Topaz.

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For all their similarities (or differences), David and Michael share a brotherly love of jewels. Their twin talents work in harmony in concept, craftmanship and creativity while bringing a deeply human, personal touch to their creations…the core of a family business.

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Discover More from Jewels, New York >

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\n","publishDate","2022-12-01T12:43:00.000000Z","authorCredit","Jesse Limbacher",[],"coverPosX","coverPosY","articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/109815063/the-twin-set-david-michael-jewels-new-york-auction","auctionEditorialID",1721,"editorialID",4062,"flocklerID",109815063,{"_3319":3343,"_3321":153,"_3322":3344,"_131":3345,"_3325":3346,"_3327":3347,"_3329":3330,"_431":3348,"_3332":1550,"_3333":418,"_3334":3349,"_412":198,"_3336":3350,"_3338":3351,"_3340":3352},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/0002-rings-resize-final-326-8e27f43b-d636-44c5-9d65-1ffbed1d5a45_s600x0.jpg","Jewels New York sets the stage for colored diamonds to have their chance to shine.","ROCK STARS","

This season, Jewels New York offers a stunning selection of both colorless and colored diamonds.

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When it comes to diamonds, we often think of those coveted, sparkling white gems that are not only symbols of luxury, but one of earth’s greatest treasures. Diamonds, however, come in almost every color of the rainbow, ranging from a subtle tint of color to more vivid, saturated hues. Tapping into their expertise and love of diamonds, we’ve asked a few editors at the Natural Diamond Council to select which colored diamond offered in our December auction strikes their fancy.

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A 4.05 carat Fancy Intense Pink Diamond Pendent Necklace signed Boodles. Lot 139, Estimate: US $800,000-1,200,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December.

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If diamonds are a girl’s best friend, pink is a girl’s best color. And when you combine the two? Magic happens! Pink diamonds are a personal favorite, given pink is my favorite color, and this oval pendant showcases the fancy intense color in its best form. Let this piece shine on its own without layering in any other necklaces and pair it with a top that shows off the décolletage and the necklace itself — Jane Asher, Social Media Manager.

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A 2.49 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring. Lot 136, Estimate: US $50,000-80,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December.

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This is the only fancy vivid yellow Ashoka cut diamond I have ever seen. Its vibrant color combined with such a rare cut, created and patented by legendary diamond cutter William Goldberg, makes it extremely unique. The faceting pattern of the Ashoka cut not only makes the stone appear larger than if it were a traditional emerald cut, but also uniquely reflects the light and color in a way not seen in most yellow diamonds — Grant Mobley, Jewelry and Watch Editor.

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A Fancy Yellow-Brown Diamond Ring. Lot 87, Estimate: US $15,000-24,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December.

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Fancy yellow-brown diamonds represent to me what makes natural diamonds special in the world. Not only is the color so unusual and rare but I love their subtle understated chic. The portrait cut and color mark the ring as destined for someone with rarified taste who also appreciates the difficulty and precision of the cut. Fancy brown diamonds of all hues are quietly trending more and a great investment. See the nude diamonds Blake Lively wore to last year’s Met Gala as a stunning example. In this ring, the soft rose gold combined with the geometry of the setting mean this piece can be worn literally anywhere but I think ideal for lunch with a chambray shirt. If I could describe the color, I think iced tea would be an appropriate name for this beauty — Sam Broekema, Editor-in-Chief.

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Nude-colored diamonds seem to be on trend, worn on the red carpet by Blake Lively at this year’s Met Gala in New York City. Photo caption: Everett Collection Inc / Alamy Stock Photo.

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A 3.46 carat oval Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring, signed Boodles. Lot 137, Estimate: US $70,000-100,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December.

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Oval natural diamonds have been one of the biggest trends of the year, but instead of conforming to the status quo, this yellow oval diamond will stand out from the rest. I am a lover of all things brilliant cut for maximum sparkle and would style this with delicate yellow gold jewelry for an all-over glowing look — Jane Asher, Social Media Manager.

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A 6.62 carat Fancy Brown-Pink Diamond Ring. Lot 89, Estimate: US $40,000-60,000; Jewels, New York, 13 December.

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The phenomenon that causes natural pink color in diamonds is extraordinarily rare, and this example, simultaneously exhibiting natural brown color produces an almost blush hue that pairs beautifully with the skin. Its classic solitaire mounting ensures the unique natural color is always front and center — Grant Mobley, Jewelry and Watch Editor.

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Discover More from Jewels, New York >

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Recommended Reading

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THE TWIN SET | David Michael Jewels >

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SEEING RED | Jewels Hong Kong >

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\n","2022-12-05T19:52:45.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/110126007/rock-stars-jewels-new-york-auction",1723,4068,110126007,{"_3319":3354,"_3321":153,"_3322":3355,"_131":3356,"_3325":3357,"_3327":3358,"_3329":3330,"_431":3359,"_3332":1550,"_3333":418,"_3334":3360,"_412":563,"_3336":3361,"_3338":3362,"_3340":3363},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/found_puppy_final_lead-a9c2fe50-7579-42f1-8894-cf9c72f167d1_s600x0.jpg","Van Cleef & Arpels’ missing Precious Puppy has finally been found. But the question is…where in the world has he been? ","LOST & FOUND","

Name: Precious Puppy. Age: Approximately 62. Birthplace: Paris. Eye Color: Emerald Green. Hair Color: Gold. Height: 3.2 cm. #preciouspuppyfound

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The story of the Precious Puppy starts in Paris, in the Place Vendôme, where Van Cleef & Arpels, first created La Boutique, a whimsical and fanciful menagerie of animals in the form of ear clips, bracelets and brooches designed to appeal to a younger and broader clientele. If these animals weren’t charming enough, the Maison then added a collection of more playful, cartoon-style brooches ranging from a winking cat and frog to a baby bird, lion, and poodle, featured in the Maison’s original advertisement from 1966. The adorable puppy was exceptionally endearing with its big emerald eyes, cute onyx nose, and curly coat made of twisted, knitted 18 carat yellow gold. So adorable, in fact, that anyone would want to adopt this puppy on the spot! But the Precious Puppy has been missing for over 20 years….until now. Our gold-furried friend is one of the highlighted lots to be offered in the Phillips Jewels New York auction on 13 December. Where has he been hiding all these years? Let’s take an imaginary tour around the world to find out!

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Illustration: B. O’Brien

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The puppy’s journey begins in the City of Lights. Strolling through the streets of Paris, the puppy accompanies his owner, faithfully by her side, as she bustles from one arrondissement to the next, with only a brief pause to enjoy the iconic landmarks synonymous with Paris. For our puppy, it wasn’t the Eiffel Tower that catches his eye, but a well-groomed poodle that stops him in his tracks. So enamored with this regal creature that he wanders off to follow her lead until he realizes that he is lost among the crowd of tourists, his owner nowhere to be found.

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Illustration: B. O’Brien

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With the realization that he is now on his own, the fearless little puppy seizes the chance for adventure, embarking on a trip around the world. Although he lived a charmed life in Paris, he waives those gentle tugs on his leash for the opportunity to run free and satisfy his wanderlust. Apparently, puppies, too, need to check off their bucket list. First stop, The Great Wall of China, one of the Wonders of the World, and an endless playground with miles and miles of meandering stone pathways.

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Illustration: B. O’Brien

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No trip to the Wonders of the World would be complete without a visit to Egypt and the ancient Pyramids of Giza. Gazing up at the majestic façade, the puppy feels especially tiny next to the imposing structures of limestone and granite. He is tempted to climb to the top, but alas, the height proves too ambitious for the little puppy. Instead, he sits next to the mysterious Sphinx, a quiet companion who gives him a much needed moment of relaxation. As we know, travel is exhausting!

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Illustration: B. O’Brien

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After gathering up his energy, the puppy continues to explore several more countries for decades until his travels eventually take him to the warm, sunny beaches in Rio, Brazil, where he decides to finally wind down his tour around the world. But he has one last stop before finding a new home. New York City. What a magical place during the holidays with its epic skyline, glistening lights, and streets buzzing with holiday cheer. The puppy even plans to stop by the Phillips Jewels auction as he thinks that’s where he might find his next owner. Will it be you? Don’t miss the Jewels auction on 13 December to find out. And meet this Precious Puppy, who was once lost but now found.

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#MissingPreciousPuppy

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About the Artist

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B. O’Brien is a 14-year-old, London-based artist who aside, from art classes in school, is self-taught and developing their own illustration style, taking inspiration from Studio Ghibli, the Japanese animation studio. For their first commission, the puppy was the perfect project as they are an avid animal-lover and jewelry enthusiast, slowly acquiring jewelry from both their mother and aunt through the guise of ‘borrowing’ it.

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Discover More from Jewels, New York >

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Recommended Reading

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THE TWIN SET | David Michael Jewels >

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ROCK STARS | Jewels, New York >

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\n","2022-12-08T20:10:00.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/110191386/van-cleef-and-arpels-puppy-auction-new-york",1724,4070,110191386,{"_3319":3365,"_3321":153,"_3322":103,"_131":3366,"_3325":3367,"_3327":3368,"_3329":3330,"_431":3369,"_3332":1550,"_3333":418,"_3334":3370,"_412":238,"_3336":3371,"_3338":3372,"_3340":3373},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/pink-diamond-final-7d681cec-358b-418d-a91f-cdda6ee6832f_s600x0.jpg","WATCH: Jewels | New York | 13 December 2022","

Important Fancy Intense Pink Diamond Pendent Necklace, Lot 139, Jewels New York.

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Ahead of the Jewels New York sale on 13 December, Worldwide Head of Jewellery, Benoît Repellin sat down to highlight selections from a private collection. Watch to learn more about an Important Fancy Intense Pink Diamond Pendent Necklace, a Fine Diamond Ring, and a Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring, all signed by Boodles.

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Auction Information /

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13 December 2022 10am EST - New York

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432 Park Avenue, New York, NY, United States, 10022 (map)

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Viewing /

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6 December - 12 December
\nMonday-Saturday 10:00am-6:00pm
\nSunday 12:00pm-6:00pm

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Discover More from Jewels >

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Recommended Reading

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ROCK STARS >

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THE TWIN SET >

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