Benoît Repellin
\nWorldwide Head of Jewellery
\nBRepellin@phillips.com
\n+41 79 313 6845
\n

\n\n

Roberta Belfer
\nSpecialist
\nRBelfer@phillips.com
\n+41 79 522 92 78
\n

\n\n

Charlotte Hanson
\nAssociate Specialist
\nCHanson@phillips.com
\n+41 79 574 7713
\n

\n\n

Matea Milanović
\nCataloguer
\nMMilanovic@phillips.com
\n+41 22 317 96 74
\n
\nMary Higonnet
\nSenior Administrator
\nMHigonnet@phillips.com
\n+41 22 317 96 64
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View Conditions of Sale >
\n
\nPriority Bidding is here! Secure a lower Buyer’s Premium. Learn more >
\n

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Important Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, weighing 18.09 carats

\n","version","1759155730",{"_521":2950,"_131":2951,"_2947":2952},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/3_hi.jpg","

Very fine Light Pink Brown diamond ring, weighing 10.08 carats, Type IIa, old-cut, Golconda

\n","1759155721",{"_521":2954,"_131":2955,"_2947":2956},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/4_hi.jpg","

Pair of fine diamond stud earrings, weighing 8.00 and 8.28 carats, D Colour, VVS1 Clarity, Type IIa

\n","1759155712",{"_521":2958,"_131":2959,"_2947":2960},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/5_hi.jpg","

SCHLUMBERGER Magnificent diamond, ruby, sapphire and gold necklace, ‘Plumes’, late 1950s

\n","1759155704",{"_521":2962,"_131":2963,"_2947":2964},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/6_hi.jpg","

TIFFANY & CO 'The Vanderbilt Sapphire' Magnificent and highly important Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch, weighing 42.68 carats, early 20th century

\n","1759155644",{"_521":2966,"_131":2967,"_2947":2968},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/7_hi.jpg","

CARTIER Magnificent diamond brooch, circa 1908

\n","1759155632",{"_521":2970,"_131":2971,"_2947":2972},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/8_hi.jpg","

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Magnificent Diamond sautoir, 1920s

\n","1759155622",{"_521":2974,"_131":2975,"_2947":2976},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/9_hi.jpg","

BULGARI Emerald and enamel belt, 'Serpenti', circa 1970

\n","1759155610",{"_521":2978,"_131":2979,"_2947":2980},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060425/10_hi.jpg","

CHAUMET Sapphire and diamond bracelet, circa 1938

\n","1759155597",{"_89":2982,"_91":2983,"_93":2984,"_110":2990},"2025-11-04T23:00:00.000000Z","2025-11-09T23:00:00.000000Z",{"_95":-5,"_96":2985,"_98":2986,"_100":2987,"_102":2988,"_104":103,"_105":472,"_106":2989,"_108":103},"Switzerland","CH","Hotel President","Quai Wilson 47","1211",[2991,2992],{"_113":163,"_115":114,"_116":117,"_118":123},{"_113":183,"_115":183,"_116":2993,"_118":2994},"09:00:00","13:00:00",[],"articles",[2998,3022,3033],{"_2999":3000,"_3001":153,"_3002":3003,"_131":3004,"_3005":3006,"_3007":3008,"_3009":3010,"_428":3011,"_3012":1576,"_3013":414,"_3014":3015,"_407":414,"_3016":3017,"_3018":3019,"_3020":3021},"coverUrl","https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/rockstowatch-lead-f03da7be-5f6c-451c-b792-8c0a737ded85_s600x0.jpg","section","summary","Tastefully balancing elegance and extravagance, The Geneva Jewels Auction: V unveils a selection of showstopping stones.","ROCKS TO WATCH: At the Summit ","body","

Lot 416: Exceptional Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond ring weighing 6.95 carats, VVS2 clarity, Type IIa. Estimates upon request. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

\n\n

Unfolding layers of rarity and beauty

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Lot 416: Exceptional Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond ring weighing 6.95 carats, VVS2 clarity, Type IIa. Estimates upon request. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

\n\n

With rarity comes allure, and Fancy coloured diamonds represent a rather small fraction of total diamonds submitted to the GIA for grading. What’s more, Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink stones represent only a small segment within that exclusive category. Remarkably, a GIA study on coloured diamonds found that Pinkish Purple to Purplish Pink diamonds accounted for only about 28% of the “pink” diamonds submitted between 2008 and 2016. But to find such a stone presenting like this — Type IIa, weighing 6.95 carats, and boasting VVS2 clarity — is exceedingly rare.

\n\n

In terms of beauty, this stone is simply dazzling. The exceptional confluence of purple and pink hues, manifested by the mystery of nature, brings dimension, saturation, and richness to the colouration. As the GIA monograph accompanying the stone explains, “The enchanting colour pink, often associated with charm, love and kindness, takes one of its lovliest forms in diamond. Like finding ‘a needle in a haystack’, the 6.95-carats Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond inhabits the intersection of beauty and rarity.”

\n\n

\n\n

Lot 416: Exceptional Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond ring weighing 6.95 carats, VVS2 clarity, Type IIa. Estimates upon request. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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A ruby-red angel

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Lot 406: Burmese ruby and diamond ring weighing 4.95 carats, no heat. Estimates: CHF240,000–320,000 / US$300,000–400,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

\n\n

A regal halo of ten brilliant-cut diamonds befittingly frames this 4.95-carat cushion-shaped Burmese ruby, ornately elevating the superlative stone with angelic poise. A masterpiece of nature, with no indications of heating, the ruby possesses such an unyielding red that time seems to freeze as we gaze into its depths. Symbolizing power, wealth, passion, and love, this stone embodies the spiritual qualities of rubies that have captivated gem-lovers for centuries.

\n\n

\n\n

Lot 406: Burmese ruby and diamond ring weighing 4.95 carats, no heat. Estimates: CHF240,000–320,000 / US$300,000–400,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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She wore blue velvet

\n\n

Lot 405: Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring weighing 18.09 carats, no heat. Estimates: CHF1,750,000–2,230,000 / US$2,190,000–2,790,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

\n\n

The enchanting velvety blue hue of this 18.09-carat Kashmir sapphire is simply extraordinary. Its colour, clarity, size, and weight are heightened by the intriguing and well-proportioned octagonal step-cut, which reveals multiple internal reflections. Beyond the sheer elegance of the geometric cut, the stone has been spared from heat treatment — these wondrous aspects are entirely natural and highly characteristic of the finest sapphires from Kashmir. As remarked in the SSEF Appendix Letter accompanying the stone, “A sapphire from Kashmir of this size and quality is very rare and thus can be considered a true treasure of nature.” Bluer than velvet was the night indeed.

\n\n

\n\n

Lot 405: Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring weighing 18.09 carats, no heat. Estimates: CHF1,750,000–2,230,000 / US$2,190,000–2,790,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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“Of the first water” — A remarkable Golconda diamond

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Lot 404: Very fine Light Pink-Brown diamond ring weighing 10.08 carats, SI1 clarity. Estimates: CHF350,000–510,000 / US$450,000–650,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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There's more to this captivating 10.08-carat diamond ring than meets an initial look. Accompanied by a GGTL monograph and a Golconda Diamond Appendix Letter, this old mine cut stone matches the database of diamonds from the historical Golconda deposits in India — the source of the very first diamonds ever traded. Golconda diamonds are almost entirely of pure carbon and virtually free of nitrogen impurities, together accounting for less than 2% of all gem-quality diamonds worldwide.

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Reaching peak productivity in the 16th to 18th centuries, gems from the Golconda mines were primarily extracted from riverbeds. This gave rise to the expression “of the first water,” linking the gemstones’ exceptional colour and transparency to the clearest drop of water. This poetic attribute is on clear display in the remarkable ring on offer here, its delicate pastel colour stemming from its unusual orange fluorescence. Unique, timeless, mysterious — it‘s as peerless as its wearer.

\n\n

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Lot 404: Very fine Light Pink-Brown diamond ring weighing 10.08 carats, SI1 clarity. Estimates: CHF350,000–510,000 / US$450,000–650,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Minimalist elegance

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Lot 388: Pair of fine diamond studs weighing 8.00 and 8.28 carats respectively, D colour, VVS1 clarity. Estimates: CHF480,000–680,000 / US$600,000–850,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

\n\n

To many, less is more, and these diamond studs may be living proof. By stripping away distractions, this classic stud setting serves to elevate the extraordinary brilliance of these stones, spotlighting the matched D colour, VVS1 diamonds at center stage. Their considered placement near the ear — a subtle, sensory invitation — achieves a fluid equilibrium, adding balance and symmetry to a look. If luxury is simplification, it doesn’t get much more effortless than this.

\n\n

\n\n

Lot 388: Pair of fine diamond studs weighing 8.00 and 8.28 carats respectively, D colour, VVS1 clarity. Estimates: CHF480,000–680,000 / US$600,000–850,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Discover more from The Geneva Jewels Auction: V >

\n","publishDate","2025-10-16T17:37:10.000000Z","authorCredit","Jesse Limbacher",[],"coverPosX","coverPosY","articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/163040912/rocks-to-watch-at-the-summit-geneva-jewels-auction-v","auctionEditorialID",6166,"editorialID",5096,"flocklerID",163040912,{"_2999":3023,"_3001":153,"_3002":3024,"_131":3025,"_3005":3026,"_3007":3027,"_3009":3010,"_428":3028,"_3012":1576,"_3013":414,"_3014":3029,"_407":198,"_3016":3030,"_3018":3031,"_3020":3032},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/jewels-lead-7bad9963-85cb-4e0e-ae64-f7f15df77921_s600x0.jpg","Travel through time with historic jewels on offer in The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.","WHERE TO WEAR IT: Imaginary Edition","

Lot 355: Important sapphire and diamond tiara/crown/necklace combination, second half of the 19th century. Estimate: CHF200,000–280,000 / US$250,000–350,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Elegantly en route

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Lot 355: Important sapphire and diamond tiara/crown/necklace combination, second half of the 19th century. Estimates: CHF200,000–280,000 / US$250,000–350,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Let’s set the stage: It’s sometime after 1850, and the world is obsessing over the latest tech release — the steam engine. You find yourself on a luxury locomotive, your brand-new trunk made by a man named Vuitton in tow. You’re heading from Vienna to Paris to see some art by these so-called Impressionists you’ve been hearing all about, and right now, you’re readying yourself for dinner in the dining car. We can think of nothing better to wear for such an occasion than this remarkable piece, which gives the impression of flowers through intricate settings of sapphires and diamonds. What’s even better is that when we arrive in Paris, this necklace can transform into a crown or tiara that you can wear to the exhibition that’s getting the académie so huffed. What an impression that will leave.

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Showtime in Paris or New York

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Lot 349: Natural pearl and diamond tiara, early 20th century. Estimates: CHF14,000–19,000 / US$18,000–24,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Speaking of tiaras, anyone fancy a night at the opera? We’re now in the early 20th century, and choosing between Paris and New York is proving tricky. Sure, Toscanini’s Puccini is first rate, but our money’s on Paris for the premiere of Claude Debussy’s Pelléas et Mélisande. This natural pearl and diamond tiara is sure to stun at intermission — after all, Mélisande does lose her crown in the first scene — but staying low-key with this beautiful early Cartier bracelet and its matching earrings and brooch is an elegant choice too. Either way, we find that these pieces attract us with an irresistible force, just as the titular characters are mysteriously drawn to each other (never mind the ending, though).

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Lot 356: Cartier, Ruby and diamond bracelet, circa 1904, a pair of earrings and a brooch. Estimates: CHF38,000–65,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Speaking easily at the hotel

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Lot 415: Van Cleef & Arpels, Diamond sautoir, 1920s. Estimates: CHF180,000–240,000 / US$220,000–300,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Ella sings softly:

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I used to visit all the very gay places

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Those come-what-may places

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But what’s an elegant continental lush supposed to do when visiting San Francisco in the ’20s?

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Where one relaxes on the axis of the wheel of life

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To the St. Francis Hotel basement bar we go, before the after at the Palace. What doorman could turn us away in this magnificent diamond sautoir from Van Cleef & Arpels? The 10.79-carat diamond at the center of the detachable pendant reminds us of our favorite aspect of Art Deco design — within its geometric form lies an infectious sense of curiosity and freedom. Within these borders, anything goes, so from Tipperary town we steer…

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To get the feel of life

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From jazz and cocktails

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To be a swan

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Lot 408: Schlumberger, Ruby, sapphire and diamond necklace, ‘Plumes’, circa 1960. Estimates: CHF240,000–400,000 / US$300,000–500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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For us more literary jewelry lovers, the 1960s are synonymous with the glamour surrounding Truman Capote. These pieces from that time could do no better than join us for a party with the Swans, and what better fit than the ‘Plumes’ necklace by Schlumberger fastened of ruby, sapphire and diamond? It isn’t just the desire to be a muse to Capote that draws us in, it’s the sense of the freewheeling open-mindedness of the era that is echoed in its designs.

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Lot 411: Cartier, Gem set and diamond brooch, 1960s. Estimates: CHF24,000–40,000 / US$30,000–50,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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What we long to remember of the ‘60s is the promise of newness, progress, and change. Like today, the era was a fresh chance for modernity and an opportunity to be more than a model or muse. After all, it worked for Fiona Thyssen-Bornemisza.

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Breakfast with Bulgari

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Lot 370: Bulgari, Gem set and diamond necklace, circa 1980. Estimates: CHF40,000–60,000 / US$50,000–80,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Finally, we’ve arrived at the kind of New York City power breakfast that defined the late ‘70s through the ‘80s. (These days we prefer Four Twenty Five, but back then it would have been Le Cirque). Bulgari is a perfect match for this meal — no hostile takeovers here, just pure leisure — and this remarkable necklace, set with cabochon citrines and peridots and accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, is fittingly designed as a bib. Don’t worry that you might not be able to stack a Serpenti necklace with it; we’ve got one you can wear as a belt, and we won’t judge if you loosen it after the third glass of champagne. Power breakfast indeed.

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Lot 374: Bulgari, Enamel belt, ‘Serpenti’, circa 1970. Estimates: CHF180,000–240,000 / US$220,000–300,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Lot 374: Bulgari, Enamel belt, ‘Serpenti’, circa 1970. Estimates: CHF180,000–240,000 / US$220,000–300,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Discover more from The Geneva Jewels Auction: V >

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\n","2025-10-23T17:07:13.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/163258734/where-to-wear-it-imaginary-edition-geneva-jewels-auction-2025",6167,5110,163258734,{"_2999":3034,"_3001":153,"_3002":3035,"_131":3036,"_3005":3037,"_3007":3038,"_3009":3010,"_428":3039,"_3012":1576,"_3013":414,"_3014":3040,"_407":548,"_3016":3041,"_3018":3042,"_3020":3043},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/vanderbilt-lead-5b62c65a-c1ed-4176-b334-34946dbd4dff_s600x0.jpg","Unpacking the artistic and social aspirations of the Gilded Age.","THE VANDERBILT FAMILY JEWELS: Icons of American Aristocracy ","

Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, with her grandsons, The Honourable Robin Finch Hatton and Viscount Maidstone; together with Gladys' youngest daughter, Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi, later Countess Alexander E. Eltz. The picture is taken in The Breakers garden.

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La Belle Époque (c.1895-1914) was an era of glittering optimism and grand prosperity in Europe, with Paris at its heart. A period defined by peace, cultural blossoming and technological progress, it is seen today as a ‘beautiful age’, a luminous time of beauty and luxury before the upheaval brought about by World War I.

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The jewellery of the first decade of the 20th century embraced a certain lightness and delicacy, drawing inspiration not only from 18th century design but also the joyful and vibrant atmosphere of the era. Motifs like garlands of flowers, flowing ribbons, bows, tassels and laurel wreaths defined what became known as the Garland style, perfectly suited to a period of newfound wealth and beauty.

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Left: Portrait of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965). Painted by Philip de László © de László Foundation /Estate of Count Nicholas Eltz Private Collection. Right: Count László Széchényi. Painted by Philip de László, 1931. © de László Foundation/Estate of The Countess Anthony Szapáry Private, Collection, on loan to The Preservation Society of Newport County.

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It was mirrored in the United States by what was called the ‘Gilded Age’. The industrialist elite of the time wore jewels in great abundance, lavishly displaying their extravagant lifestyle on every occasion — whether at the theatre or in their opulent ‘summer cottages’ in Newport, Rhode Island, such as the Vanderbilt mansion The Breakers, a 70-room residence built between 1893 and 1895 for Cornelius Vanderbilt II. Few names evoke the grandeur and opulence of America’s Gilded Age as powerfully as Vanderbilt. With a fortune built on railroads and shipping, the Vanderbilt dynasty came to symbolize the pinnacle of wealth, taste, and influence in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

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Central to this legacy is the Vanderbilt family’s extraordinary collection of jewels — pieces that stand as enduring emblems of elegance and sophistication. Curated with a discerning eye and an appetite for the finest craftsmanship, the Vanderbilt jewels were commissioned from the world’s most prestigious maisons, including Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels. Carefully selected to convey status, heritage and power, the jewels became cherished heirlooms passed down through generations of American aristocracy.

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Today, pieces from the Vanderbilt collection are exceedingly rare and highly coveted by collectors, not only for their intrinsic beauty but for their unparalleled provenance. Each jewel is an icon of visionary patronage, epitomising timeless taste and an illustrious legacy.

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Lot 401: Tiffany & Co., 'The Vanderbilt Sapphire.' Magnificent and highly important sapphire and diamond brooch, early 20th century. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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The star of the collection is “The Vanderbilt Sapphire”, an exceptional sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch weighing 42.68 carats, in illustrious ‘Royal Blue’ colour. Created by Tiffany & Co., this extraordinary gem is accompanied by certificates from AGL, SSEF, and Gübelin. It was originally gifted by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi. The brooch’s intricate openwork design embellished with old-cut diamonds typifies quintessential Belle Epoque refinement. More than a family heirloom, this jewel embodied the era’s artistic and social ambitions, pioneered by one of the greatest American dynasties.

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Lot 400: Cartier, Magnificent diamond brooch, circa 1908. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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Among the most outstanding examples is the Cartier Diamond Brooch Lot 400, originally part of a diamond tiara from the Belle Epoque, designed as eight lily sprays and adorned with interchangeable pear-shaped amethysts and similarly shaped diamonds. It was gifted to Gladys Vanderbilt by her mother, Alice Claypoole Vanderbilt (née Gwynne), upon her marriage to Hungarian Count László Széchényi, in 1908. The couple were married at the Vanderbilt residence in New York. The New York Times reported that ‘the ceremony was of the simplest character’ and that ‘her jewels were a single large diamond pendant and a string of pearls'. It was regarded as one of the most high-profile society marriages since that of her cousin Consuelo to the 9th Duke of Marlborough thirteen years earlier.

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Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, wearing the Cartier Tiara.

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Gladys, the youngest daughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt II, represented the last generation of Gilded Age heiresses whose marriages bridged American wealth and European nobility. Conceived in the Belle Époque style, the tiara was worn on numerous important occasions, most notably at the coronation of Emperor Charles and Empress Zita of Austria as King and Queen of Hungary on 30 December 1916. It was eventually dismantled, and the remaining brooch presented in our auction stands as a surviving symbol of social power, familial ambition, and transatlantic prestige.

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Clockwise from top left: Lot 399: Diamond and emerald brooch, late 19th century; Lot 392: Cartier, Gold 8-Day traveling timepiece; Lot 391: Cartier, Gold, ruby and diamond wristwatch, circa 1937; Lot 394: Diamond hair ornament, early 20th century. The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

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The family collection also includes delicate objects and fine jewels from the late 19th century to the first third of the 20th century, including an emerald and diamond brooch of bow design, a diamond comb, a Cartier vanity case bearing the monogram of Gladys Vanderbilt, an '8-Days' traveling clock given to Gladys, Countess Széchényi , on Christmas 1913, and a gold, ruby and diamond wristwatch.

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Discover more from The Geneva Jewels Auction: V >

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