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8021

Audemars Piguet

Ref. 5402

Royal Oak “A Series”

An early, very rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “tropical dial”, date and bracelet

Estimate
HK$160,000 - 320,000
€18,400 - 36,800
$20,500 - 41,000
HK$330,200
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1972
Reference No
5402
Case No
A 122
Model Name
Royal Oak “A Series”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 170mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp stamped “X 12”
Dimensions
39mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
- As the first model in the Royal Oak collection, the reference 5402 recently celebrated its 50th anniversary and embodies the essence of the entire collection with its rich heritage.

- Among the 1,937 A-serial 5402s produced, the present watch belongs to one of the earliest batches released by Audemars Piguet in 1972, as it is numbered 122 written on the caseback.

- While most Royal Oak dials feature the "AP" logo at 6 o'clock, this particular dial showcases the logo at the 12 o'clock position, replacing the index. This variation may be attributed to the fact that Audemars Piguet replaced the dial during an early service.

- Audemars Piguet restorers explain that over time, certain watch hands can rub against or even collide with the applied logo at 6 o’clock, causing the watch to stop. It is crucial to note that the distance between the hands and the logo is only a few hundredths of a millimeter.

- To address this issue, Audemars Piguet watchmakers initially bent the hands manually, performing a delicate operation that involved creating two tiny, inverted Z-shaped bends to raise the hands just enough to pass without touching the logo or the crystal, and without touching each other. However, in order to provide a permanent solution, Audemars Piguet decided on February 24, 1977 to relocate the logo to the 12 o'clock position, allowing sufficient space for the movement of the hour hand.

- Considering dial variations throughout the entire reference, it is estimated that only a maximum of 16% have the AP monogram at the 12 o'clock position, making this A-serial variant a highly rare example compared to other known watches in the market.

Audemars Piguet

Swiss | 1881
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.
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