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1080

Audemars Piguet

Ref. 5594BA

Royal Oak Day Date Moon Phase

An early, very rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with non-luminous grey dial, day, date, moon phases and bracelet

Nicknamed the “Owl”, before the release of reference 25594 in 1984, reference 5594 served as a trial model, produced for less than a year, featuring a sleek 36mm case with a calendar function that indicates the day, date and moon phases.

While the majority of references 5594 and 25594 were made in stainless steel, only 24% were crafted in solid yellow gold. What makes this watch particularly intriguing is its non-luminous grey dial. According to the AP Chronicles, the first catalogue published in 1985 indicated that only the yellow gold ref. 5594 variant was devoid of luminous plots and hands. This means that the present early example from 1984 is among the few that is fitted with the rare non-luminous grey dial.

An exceptionally handsome timepiece, collectors have recently sought after early Royal Oaks, and this model is certainly a hidden gem. Practical yet retaining its iconic traits, further enhanced by its vintage appeal, the dial is well-preserved with minimal signs of aging. It features the signature petite tapisserie pattern and the older style logo seen on early Royal Oak models. Accompanied by an elegant integrated bracelet, it includes an early “blade” style folding clasp, typical of Royal Oak timepieces manufactured from 1972 to the mid-1980s. The French Owl hallmarks on the case, bracelet, and clasp indicate that the watch was imported into the French market prior to 1990.

Confirmed by its digital Extract from the Archives, this unusual dial combination in a yellow gold case is a rare and early find, making it a must-have for anyone seeking a neo-vintage, special Royal Oak from the 1980s.

Audemars Piguet

Swiss | 1881

A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.


Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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