963
Audemars Piguet
Ref. 25636BA.OO.0944BA.01
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked
An early and very attractive yellow gold skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and bracelet
Full-Cataloguing
- Very early perpetual calendar reference without leap year indication
- Numbered 19, only 156 pieces were made in yellow gold
- First Royal Oak to feature a sapphire caseback
In 1984, twelve years after the groundbreaking launch of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet boldly responded to the challenges posed by the quartz crisis by introducing the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Fitting an automatic calibre with perpetual calendar and moon phases into a case only 8.8 mm thick was no small achievement.
Shortly thereafter, the brand unveiled a new design aesthetic, offering the Royal Oak perpetual with skeletonized dials—an innovation that was virtually absent in wristwatches during the 1980s. These fully skeletonized pieces provided a stunning view of the movement from both the front and back. They exemplified the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking, with excess metal removed from all the movement's plates and bridges, while the remaining “skeletal” components were meticulously hand-engraved and finished.
According to Audemars Piguet, yellow gold cases were among the first produced, with a total of 156 pieces crafted in yellow gold from 1986 to 1997. The present watch, numbered 19, is one of the earliest examples to leave the Audemars Piguet factory, dating back to 1987, still with the original early folding clasp. In total, 313 pieces of this reference were produced across all materials until they fitted in with a leap year indication.
This model was also the first Royal Oak to feature a sapphire caseback, showcasing the magnificent hand-engraved movement for the first time. The contrasting colors of the movement components—some in steel, some gold-plated and others in solid gold—create a striking visual effect beneath the sapphire dial, with the champagne subdial rings appearing to float above. According to the digital Extract from the Archives, this present watch was sold on August 13, 1987.
After nearly 40 years, its condition is remarkably preserved, with a pleasing layer of patina developed on the case and bracelet, suggesting it has been stored safely for an extended period. This presents a rare opportunity for Audemars Piguet enthusiasts to acquire an early skeletonized perpetual calendar from the brand.
Audemars Piguet
Swiss | 1881A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.