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1037

Breguet

Ref. 3050

Classique Perpetual Calendar, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

A historically important and rare yellow gold double-signed perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, leap year indication and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 200,000
€13,300 - 22,100
$15,400 - 25,600
HK$508,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
Circa 1990s
Reference No
3050
Movement No
197
Case No
2603
Model Name
Classique Perpetual Calendar, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Breguet deployant clasp
Dimensions
35mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed; dial further signed Tiffany & Co
Accessories
Accompanied by Breguet fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Catalogue Essay
In 1973, at a time when mechanical watchmaking was in decline amid the quartz revolution, Daniel Roth undertook a bold and visionary endeavor at Breguet: the revival of the perpetual calendar. His efforts culminated in the creation of ref. 3050, introduced in the mid-1970s, marking a significant chapter in the renaissance of traditional horology.

Inspired by a historic Breguet pocket watch that Roth had studied during his early training, the ref. 3050 masterfully translated classical proportions and mechanical poetry into a contemporary wristwatch format. The result was a timepiece that combined technical sophistication with unmistakable elegance. Each watch was individually numbered, with the discreet plaque subtly integrated into the subdial, a refined gesture that highlights its rarity and artisanal provenance.

Due to the complexity of its construction and the expertise required, the ref. 3050 was produced in very limited numbers when it was succeeded by the ref. 3310, which introduced a power reserve indicator, yet departed from the minimalist purity of its predecessor, making each surviving example a rare witness to Roth’s horological vision.

The present example numbered 2603 stands out with its “Tiffany & Co.” signature at 3 o’clock. Exceedingly rare, only a handful of examples are known to be sold by the prestigious retailer. Accompanied by its original presentation box, the watch is exceptionally well-preserved, with all hallmarks visible—it is a historically significant creation, capturing the spirit of a quiet revolution in modern watchmaking.

Breguet

Swiss | 1775
Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.
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