To many collectors today, the idea of Souscription is no longer foreign thanks to the widely praised tourbillon series by independent master watchmaker F. P. Journe in 1999. A brilliant idea it was, this unique approach was actually borrowed from Breguet’s founding father, Abraham Louis Breguet in 1794. Not only does it allow the brand to remain financially stable, on the up-side a percentage of down payment would be collected up front from collectors in exchange for what would become the very first ones to own the limited production timepieces. This is exactly the case for the present Breguet Souscription set launched in 1991. Set out to be produced in a limited series of 300 pieces only as a celebration of more than 200 years of the brand, the pair consist of a 37mm perpetual calendar wristwatch with minute repeater, and a 62mm perpetuelle pocket watch that spanned across four metals: platinum, pink, white and yellow gold.

Diving into the ref. 3430 perpetual calendar minute repeater, the yellow gold coin edged cased timepiece is fitted with a classic guilloche dial, compacted with information yet extremely well-balanced with all elements clearly legible. Powering this wristwatch is the calibre 567 derived from the Lemania minute repeating calibre cal. 399 with the perpetual calendar mechanism on top. Aesthetically distinctive by its triple finger bridges and decorated with Côte de Genève throughout, the movement and caseback is signed off with No. 34.

Matched as a pair, the No. 34 perpetuelle pocket watch ref. 1890 is truly spectacular. Based on similar Breguet pocket watches from the late 18th century, it proudly displays a hammer-winding mechanism that all connoisseurs can admire with the naked eye thanks to its large case size. Absolutely a pleasure to appreciate, the architecture and finishings of the movement is a work of art. From the oscillating weight crafted in platinum with anti-friction sapphire rollers to the serpentine steel arm, to the parachute shock absorber on both pivots that stands out against the golden movement strikingly. It is notable that this was developed and manufactured by Michel Parmigiani in 1990s while Breguet was under ownership of Investcorp.

Documented with the original Breguet certificates, the No. 34 Souscription set with its original wooden presentation box is highly collectible in all aspects.