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636

Cartier

An Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Cartier London, Circa 1925

One step-cut sapphire, 5.22 caratsBaguette and brilliant-cut diamonds in the surroundPlatinum<em>With a signed box </em>(5.22-carat Sapphire) <em>AGL Report, numbered 1086960, dated 6 September 2017, Kashmir, no gemological evidence of heat and clarity enhancement. Gübelin Report, numbered 16025196, dated 24 February 2016, Kashmir, no indications of heating. SSEF Report, numbered 97478, dated 22 January 2018, Kashmir, no indications of heating.</em>
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The allure of sapphires from Kashmir partly rests in their legendary origin amidst the Himalayan Mountains, a source that was exhausted more than a hundred years ago, limiting the supply of top-quality Kashmir sapphires to an extremely low number. Their unsurpassed colour is the other captivating attribute that sets Kashmir sapphires apart. Its unique blue so soft and velvety, yet rich and lustrous, glows under any kind of light, unlike sapphires from other origins which may appear purplish or greyish in comparison.
These three sapphires (Lots 635 and 636) are particularly rare for they all adopted the step-cut, which is a cutting style reserved for the finest and cleanest sapphire roughs. Any sapphire from Kashmir weighing over 5 carats and free from any heat treatment is greatly sought-after by gem connoisseurs all around the world. Needless to say, if such a gemstone is set by one of the world’s most notable jewellery houses, Cartier, it only adds to the appeal of the blue gem.

Cartier

French

With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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