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16Ο

Rolex

Ref. 16520; inside caseback stamped 16500

Cosmograph Daytona “Porcelain, Floating Cosmograph”

A highly rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with ‘porcelain’ dial, ‘floating’ logo, and bracelet

Estimate
$40,000 - 80,000
$55,880
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1988
Reference No
16520; inside caseback stamped 16500
Movement No
12’703
Case No
R’864’908
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona “Porcelain, Floating Cosmograph”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, endlinks stamped 503, max overall approximate length 210mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78360, stamped ‘M5’ for 1988
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Catalogue Essay
Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona is one of the most iconic and cherished wristwatches for collectors today, and its evolution is legendary. Over its 70-year lifespan, it has become revered for its timeless design, durability, and wearability.

Though the reference 16250 has increased in collectability in recent years, examples from the first few years of production are particularly coveted due to their idiosyncratic details. R-serial reference 16520s, the first year of production, have possibly the most distinct traits of the entire reference. This early, R-series example features a so-called ‘porcelain’ dial, named for its highly lacquered and reflective surface which makes the black ink printing reflect below the surface of the dial. Of additional interest is the “staccato” or “floating” Cosmograph logo, only found on the earliest variants.

Other details include the “inverted 6” on the 12-hour counter and early bezel calibrated to 200 units per hour rather than 400 units found on later examples. Not only the first Daytona fitted with an automatic movement, it was also the first to feature a sapphire crystal and larger case diameter measuring 40 millimeters.

In celebration of the Daytona’s 25th anniversary, Rolex released at Basel in 1988 the first self-winding chronograph model in their history. The technically innovative reference 16520 was powered by an automatic Zenith El Primero caliber, which was substantially modified by Rolex. At the time of the launch, the reference became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. Remaining in our opinion unpolished, the present lot offers an opportunity to obtain a wearable classic with highly coveted features found only on the rarest of examples.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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