Rolex’s Explorer II reference 16550 replaced the beloved reference 1655, which was a modernized version of the brand’s historic Explorer line of wristwatches. The unique design was originally intended for spelunkers, with a fixed, engraved 24-hour calibrated bezel and additional 24-hour hand that permits the wearer to easily know the correct time in the darkness of caves.

The reference 16550 was a milestone reference. It was introduced in 1985, and was the first mechanical Rolex model fitted with a scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Produced for only a few years, white dial examples have become a collector’s favorite due to a manufacturing flaw, with the original white color turning a very pleasing ivory or cream hue over time. Early versions of the reference provide further intrigue with their attractive “rail” dial configuration, found in the perfect alignment of the vertical space between the written text across the two lines on the dial at 6 o’clock, with “Superlative” and “Officially” words on the left, and “Chronometer” and “Certified” words on the right. In addition to the color change, the dials were made using a glossy, lacquered finish, giving them a porcelain-like look. The white gold applied luminous hour markers complement the dial of the present example, having aged to a warm beige color.

In original condition, and remaining in our opinion unpolished, this example stands out with its stunning ivory dial, beautifully aged hour markers, and original proportions.