8030
Rolex
Ref. 18238
Day-date
A very fine and exquisite yellow gold wristwatch with bracelet, centre seconds, day, date, pavé diamond-set dial and ruby-set indexes
- Estimate
- HK$160,000 - 300,000€17,500 - 32,900$20,500 - 38,500
HK$254,000
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Rolex
- Year
- Circa 1989, Switzerland
- Reference No
- 18238
- Movement No
- 5’192’976
- Case No
- L372’025, inside caseback stamped “18200”
- Model Name
- Day-date
- Material
- 18K yellow gold, diamonds and rubies
- Calibre
- Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, inside endlink stamped “55 B”, max length 180mm
- Clasp/Buckle
- 18K yellow gold Rolex concealed folding clasp, stamped “8385”
- Dimensions
- 36mm diameter
- Signed
- Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
• Introduced in 1988, the Rolex Day-Date ref. 18238 marked a significant milestone in the evolution of the Day-Date collection. It debuted the calibre 3155, an automatic movement featuring Rolex’s first double quickset function, allowing independent adjustment of both the day and date. It was considered a major leap in convenience and functionality. This mechanical upgrade was complemented by improvements in case construction and bracelet design, resulting in enhanced durability and a more refined wearing experience.
• Crafted entirely from 18K yellow gold, the ref. 18238 features a classic 36mm case with a fluted bezel, paired with the iconic President bracelet, known for its semi-circular links and concealed folding clasp. The model was offered in a wide variety of dial configurations, including champagne, black, white, and diamond-set options. As a reference produced exclusively in precious metals, the Day-Date has long served as a canvas for Rolex’s most creative dial treatments, including gem-set and hardstone dials. These rare configurations have become highly sought after by collectors, especially those featuring factory-set gemstones.
• This early “L” series example, dating to circa 1989, showcases a particularly lavish and rare configuration. The dial is fully pavé-set with diamonds, complemented by ruby-set hour markers applied in yellow gold, and features an Italian date disc, adding a distinctive regional touch. This opulent design highlights Rolex’s expertise in blending technical innovation with luxurious aesthetics. Offered in excellent condition, the watch retains all its original gemstones, which remain vibrant and securely set. Sought after for its elegance, rarity, and heritage, this timepiece is a striking example of Rolex’s gem-set artistry and is sure to stand out on any special occasion.
• Crafted entirely from 18K yellow gold, the ref. 18238 features a classic 36mm case with a fluted bezel, paired with the iconic President bracelet, known for its semi-circular links and concealed folding clasp. The model was offered in a wide variety of dial configurations, including champagne, black, white, and diamond-set options. As a reference produced exclusively in precious metals, the Day-Date has long served as a canvas for Rolex’s most creative dial treatments, including gem-set and hardstone dials. These rare configurations have become highly sought after by collectors, especially those featuring factory-set gemstones.
• This early “L” series example, dating to circa 1989, showcases a particularly lavish and rare configuration. The dial is fully pavé-set with diamonds, complemented by ruby-set hour markers applied in yellow gold, and features an Italian date disc, adding a distinctive regional touch. This opulent design highlights Rolex’s expertise in blending technical innovation with luxurious aesthetics. Offered in excellent condition, the watch retains all its original gemstones, which remain vibrant and securely set. Sought after for its elegance, rarity, and heritage, this timepiece is a striking example of Rolex’s gem-set artistry and is sure to stand out on any special occasion.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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