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27

Rolex

Ref. 5512

Submariner

A fine and very rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, black lacquer dial and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 180,000
HK$212,500
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1967
Reference No
5512
Movement No
89'413
Case No
1'631'471
Model Name
Submariner
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel <em>Rolex Oyster </em>bracelet, 185 mm. maximum length
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel <em>Rolex </em>folding deployant clasp stamped <em>Rolex USA 1.70</em>
Dimensions
39.5 mm. diameter
Signed
<em>Case, dial and movement signed </em>
Catalogue Essay
Launched around 1959, reference 5512 was the first Rolex Submariner to be fitted with crown guards. As opposed to reference 5513, reference 5512 used a chronometer rated movement, which at the time was considered more valuable and attractive.

This watch is fitted with a black lacquer dial with gilt graphics, and is signed by the prestigious retailer, Tiffany & Co. Our research suggests that this example was among the later examples to be fitted with a black lacquer dial, due to the 'Bart Simpson' coronet, rounded crown guards, chronometer movement, and Swiss-T<25 dial.

While it is more common to find later Submariners with the Tiffany & Co. signature, it is incredibly rare to find examples of reference 5512 that are signed and correct. To date, only a handful of such examples have appeared at auction, highlighting the collectability of this watch.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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