Susan Abeles
\nHead of Department, Americas and Senior International Specialist
\nNew York
\n+1 212 940 1383
\nsabeles@phillips.com

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Auction 7 June 2pm EDT

\n\n

Viewing 31 May - 6 June

\n\n

450 Park Avenue, New York (map)

\n\n

Monday - Saturday 10am - 6pm

\n\n

Sunday 12pm - 6pm

\n\n

Contact

\n\n

Jewels New York
\n+1 212 940 1378
\njewelrynewyork@phillips.com

\n\n

Susan Abeles

\n\n

Head of Department, Americas and Senior International Specialist

\n\n

+1 212 940 1383

\n\n

sabeles@phillips.com

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Phillips' June 7^th New York Jewels and concurrent Jewels & More: Online Auction offer collectors an opportunity to acquire unique treasures, old and new. A collection of antique and vintage jewels will be auctioned alongside contemporary pieces from some of our favorite living artists. Additionally you will find gem quality colored stones, colorless diamonds and a significant collection of important signed pieces by Bulgari, Cartier, Belperron, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels. The Jewels sale offers over 138 lots, with estimates ranging from $2,000 to $1,200,000.

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Lot 183, A Fancy Intense Orangy Pink Diamond

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The most highly anticipated lot in our spring sales is an exceptional 6.01 carat fancy intense orangy pink diamond, estimated at $1.2 - $1.8 million. Fancy colored diamonds continue to achieve record prices at auction, specifically diamonds with a dominant pink color. In the present example, the delicate balance of color is evenly distributed, richly saturated and crystalline in material. This combination of favorable characteristics is a miracle of nature.

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Lot 85, An Important Grandidierite

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Furthermore, the Jewels sale offers a full spectrum of gem quality colored stones for every mineral connoisseur. A 4.78 carat grandidierite, one of the rarest gemstones in the world, is for offer at an estimate of $40,000 - $60,000. The stone's size, absence of inclusions and exquisite shade of blue-green converge to make it a truly a remarkable example of an already precious and scarce mineral.

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Lot 127, A Bulgari Sapphire, Diamond and Platinum Ring

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If blue is your color, we have an important Kashmir sapphire, diamond and platinum toi et moi ring by Bulgari that is a timeless classic. Since their discovery, Kashmir sapphires have acquired a legendary status for their scarcity, unmatched rich blue hue, and velvet texture. Thus, discovering an unheated gem-quality example that surpasses five carats, as in the present example, is a remarkable event. Lastly, for our gem cognoscenti who love red, we have not only one, but two coveted, unheated Burmese ruby rings that display the enticing, rich red hue that can only be attributed to Burma.

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Lot 74, A Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond, Gold and Colored Diamond Necklace/Brooch

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Among the highlights of the signed jewels in the sale is a Cartier art deco emerald, diamond and platinum brooch which was purchased by the family of Charles Broadway Rouss, a self-made millionaire. Arriving in New York City after the Civil War, Rouss built a successful international business as a merchant. The brooch has remained in the same family since its purchase. Another important signed jewel is the Van Cleef & Arpels fancy yellow diamond and diamond necklace. Convertible to be worn as a brooch, the yellow diamond pendant further embellished with suspended briolette diamonds is a premiere example of the house’s exquisite craftsmanship.

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Lot 112, Pair of Ceuza Sapphire, Diamond and Gold Earrings

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Antique jewelry is not the only attraction at auction. We have a varied selection of beautiful jewels by contemporary designers. Find hip, colorful, design forward creations by artists such as V.A.K. Fine Jewels, Stefan Hafner and Cezua to name a few.

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Lot 272, A Pair of Chantecler Diamond, Coral and Gold Earrings

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At Phillips, younger buyers are appearing in greater numbers, and more women than ever are purchasing jewels for themselves. Our Jewels & More: Online Auction, May 28 – June 11, offers 150 lots of accessibly priced quality jewels ranging from $500 - $5,000. The sale showcases designs by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Dior, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Piaget, Chantecler and more. Not to be missed is a beautiful collection of antique jewels, as well as a stunning private collection of Native American jewelry that includes squash-blossom necklaces, cuffs and other sterling silver pieces embellished with turquoise and coral accents.

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Whatever you are shopping for this season, the Phillips jewels team is delighted to assist you in your search. Contact us at jewels@phillips.com

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\n","publishDate","2019-05-30T17:19:05.000000Z","authorCredit",[],"coverPosX","coverPosY","articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/43649279/jewels-return-to-new-york","auctionEditorialID",590,"editorialID",663,"flocklerID",43649279,{"_3106":3129,"_3108":153,"_3109":3130,"_131":3131,"_3112":3132,"_3114":3133,"_3116":103,"_427":3134,"_3118":1476,"_3119":415,"_3120":3135,"_407":198,"_3122":3136,"_3124":3137,"_3126":3138},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/38_011-ff1e44d5-00b4-497a-bd90-602a12e86f02_s600x0.jpg","Graduate Gemologist Anne Mock picks some of her favorites, from classic to contemporary, at a range of price points. ","Splurge vs. Steal: A Jewelry Style Guide","

This season, Jewels New York will once again present a live auction as well as an online-only companion sale. Together, they offer a stunning array of pieces: some for the seasoned collector seeking a worthwhile investment, and others better suited to the young and trend-conscious. Associate Specialist Anne Mock, GG, breaks down some of the very best below.

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A striking pair of floral earrings is the perfect addition to your spring and summer wardrobe. These limited edition, Italian-made Margherita Burgener earrings (Lot 89, Estimate: $6,000 - $8,000) are light in heft yet bold in aesthetic, appearing to have been plucked right from the garden. Want the same look for a little less? Try these Carvin French ruby and rose gold earrings (Lot 288, Estimate: $3,000 - $5,000). Though smaller in size, they will still have friends stopping to smell the roses.

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Large clip on earrings can add an effortless elegance to a little black dress — think Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's — or a blazer and jeans. Suzanne Belperron's (Lot 34, Estimate: $10,000 - $15,000) creations were design-focused rather than gemstone-oriented. She revolutionized the jewelry industry by creating beautiful jewelry that can be worn during the day. Similarly, these David Webb earrings (Lot 317, Estimate: $1,200 - $1,800) also focus on design in jewelry without breaking the bank.

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Often overlooked, a watch is a staple for any woman's jewelry collection. Two of Cartier's classic watches, the 'Ballon Bleu' (Lot 38, Estimate: $8,000 - $12,000), regularly spotted on Kate Middleton, and the 'Tank' (Lot 304, Estimate: $1,500 - $2,500), famously worn by Jackie Kennedy, are going under the hammer this spring at Phillips. No matter your budget, our upcoming sales offer the perfect everyday accessory for your wrist.

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Coco Chanel said of pearls: "Why wear one string when you can wear two?" And that is exactly what we are offering this spring: two elegant double-strand pearl necklaces. Simple and classic, style icons such as Grace Kelly, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor are recognized for their love of pearls. This natural pearl necklace (Lot 13, Estimate: $25,000 - $35,000) is prized for its rarity — most natural pearls have already been harvested — and well-matched strands. At a much more affordable estimate, this cultured pearl necklace by Mikimoto, credited with creating the first cultured pearl, (Lot 313, Estimate: $1,500 - $2,500), is striking in its own right — just look at their luster!

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Looking to add a pop of color to a blazer or jacket? We've got you covered. This magnificent 11.29 carat Colombian emerald and diamond brooch is a rare and beautiful example of work by Cartier (Lot 25, Estimate: $100,000 - $150,000) during the Art Deco period. If you don't have six figures to drop, you can achieve the same look with this geometric brooch (Lot 213, Estimate: $2,000 - $3,000) coming up in our online auction.

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This no heat Burmese ruby (Lot 26, Estimate: $55,000 - $75,000) is exceedingly rare. If you're willing to compromise on a gem's place of origin while still achieving the vibrant pop of red on your hand, this similarly styled piece nets a huge difference in price (Lot 236, Estimate: $2,000 - $3,000).

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A statement diamond and gold ring is, in our opinion, a must for the jewelry lovers collection. Either this French-cuff inspired band by Van Cleef & Arpels (Lot 63, Estimate: $4,000 - $6,000) or, for a little less, this wave-inspired ring by Oscar Heyman (Lot 332, Estimate: $2,000 - $3,000) will add a pop of pavé to the wearer's hand.

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A bold pop of gold around the neck is a great way to polish off a casual outfit or formal attire. Both necklaces are signed by popular designers Bulgari (Lot 39, Estimate: $7,000 - $9,000) and David Yurman (Lot 316, Estimate: $3,000 - $5,000).

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These Tiffany & Co. bangle bracelets (Lot 284, Estimate $3,000 - $5,000) are the perfect everyday staple. Feeling the need to turn your bracelet game up a notch? Try this Buccellati cuff (Lot 64, Estimate: $10,000 - $15,000).

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And finally, a little something for the daring and decadent. A Cartier lighter in shagreen and turquoise (Lot 11, Estimate $10,000 - $15,000) is a collectible even for non-smokers, with luxurious materials elevating this classic design. For those with a need for speed, this Michele della Valle 'Ferrari' brooch (Lot 250, Estimate $1,500 - $2,500) offers clean lines and brilliant-cut diamonds without any need for a garage or expensive maintenance. Just pin it on and go!

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\n","2019-05-23T16:29:05.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/43411528/splurge-vs-steal-a-jewelry-style-guide",588,656,43411528,{"_3106":3140,"_3108":153,"_3109":3141,"_131":3142,"_3112":3143,"_3114":3144,"_3116":103,"_427":3145,"_3118":1476,"_3119":415,"_3120":3146,"_407":543,"_3122":3147,"_3124":3148,"_3126":3149},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/bc_001-0ab3086a-4469-4638-bec6-b30018f6c0da_s600x0.jpg","From the personal collection of a self-made New York millionaire, a Cartier emerald, diamond and platinum brooch sheds light on the jeweler's Art Deco design era. Susan Abeles, Senior International Specialist, provides an in-depth look.","A Cartier Brooch from a Bygone Era","

Cartier Art Deco Emerald, Diamond and Platinum Brooch

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By the turn of the 20th century, Cartier was already a well-established jewelry house, offering a wide range of jewelry to international clientele. The next two decades were marked by enormous growth and creativity as the desire for magnificent and splendid creations increased with the growing number of affluent patrons, newly moneyed tycoons, royalty and performers. The world was changing, and the evolution of design and fashion were deeply interwoven into this new modern realm.
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\nThis vigorous growth was matched by expansion and the relocation of Cartier's branches – the Paris office moved to a grander building at the apex of couture and jaoillierie. Three years later in 1902, the London office opened to cater to the English nobility, which coincided with numerous orders for the coronation of Edward VII. By 1909, the London office relocated to New Bond Street, and the New York branch opened to meet the needs of American clients and the increasing number of millionaires. Strategically planned and extended visits to Russia and India helped reach new clients by creating the opportunity to sell and buy jewelry, purchase ancient and rare artifacts, as well as assist the Maharajas with the transformation of their old jewelry into current fashion.
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\nInitially, the Paris workshops supplied both the London and New York offices until local workshops were established. Later, it was the Paris and London workshops that supplied the New York branch until approximately 1917. Unlike the London branch, which was supervised by English jewelers, the first New York workshop employed all French jewelers. Each country and workshop had a different system for signing their jewelry. The pieces created in New York bear only the Cartier signature in capital letters and numbers, as assay marks were not required.

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Advances in technology permitted a revolutionary change of style. Platinum, the new metal, gave lightness and flexibility, a perfect medium for the favored bows, wreaths and swags of belle époque colorless diamond and pearl set jewelry. Led by Cartier, these Louis XV-inspired creations slowly gave way to a new vernacular in jewelry. Jewels of the Art Deco era were characterized by bold geometric patterns, color, texture and rich exoticism infused from Persian, Indian, Oriental, Russian and Egyptian influences.
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\nParisian designer Charles Jacqueau was one of the pivotal figures at Cartier, responsible for this dynamic change of jewelry design. Jacqueau worked for more than twenty years alongside Louis Cartier. Together they spurred each other’s creativity, exploring beyond the formal constraints of design to create a fantastic new paradigm influenced by stimuli from exotic cultures. Indian and Persian miniatures inspired stylized plant patterns, as did the central medallion of Persian carpets. These forms would reappear abstracted and tempered by color and texture, sometimes further embellished with ancient artifacts.

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Jewels of the Art Deco era were characterized by...rich exoticism infused from Persian, Indian, Oriental, Russian and Egyptian influences.
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Illustration of a headdress with tassel, designed in the Persian style by Charles Jacqueau. Private collection, mid-1930s. Pen and ink, watercolor and bodycolor on gray paper drawing. Image from Cartier: 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, published in 1997 by The Trustees of the British Museum.

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This diamond and emerald brooch from our upcoming Jewels auction in New York is a rare and beautiful example of work by Cartier from this fertile and creative period. The outline of the brooch is Persian inspired. Perhaps its origins can be traced from Louis Cartier’s personal Persian miniature collection, which was then transformed by Jacqueau into a jewel. Alternatively, the brooch may have derived from any number of exhibitions in Paris on Islamic art. A drawing in pen and ink by Jacqueau, circa 1912, shows similar ideas for brooches. Two later sketches by Jacqueau, for a headdress with tassel, depicts this reoccurring emerald and diamond motif. Undoubtedly, this was not only a popular theme but a favorite color combination, which harkens to remodeling of Indian jewels that were dominated by important Colombian emeralds which had been collected in the 1700s.
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\nThe exact date of purchase from Cartier New York is not known, although the brooch has remained in the family until today. It was most likely purchased by Peter Winchester Rouss, son of Charles Broadway Rouss of New York. According to family history, this brooch originally belonged to Peter’s wife, Ellen Swan Rouss. Based on the design, mounting and cut of stones utilized in this impressive brooch, it may have been purchased to be worn on the occasion of marriage for one of their three children in 1916, 1918 or 1923.

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Few of these early American jewels produced by Cartier New York survive...
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Charles Broadway Rouss was a self-made millionaire. Arriving in New York City after the Civil War, he built a successful international business as a merchant. In fact, the original building he erected in 1889 still stands and bears his name. Upon his death, Charles left his son a vast fortune and real estate, including his home at 632 Fifth Avenue, only one block south of the Plant Mansion, which was later sold to Cartier in a historic exchange for a natural pearl necklace.
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\nBoth Charles Rouss and his son Peter Winchester Rouss were colorful men. Peter Winchester Rouss, was considered flamboyant, with a real thirst for speed and excitement, which manifested itself in horse racing and yachts. For example, the sale of his four-speed yachts, each titled Winchester, involved relationships with some of the most important names in New York society and naturally on Cartier’s ledger: Leeds, Astor and Guggenheim.

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Brooches of this size and design reflected the current fashion. They were worn against a diaphanous column-form dress, pinned at the neckline or near the dropped waste, or alternatively on a hat. Few of these early American jewels produced by Cartier New York survive, which makes this a rare and beautiful example of the bygone era.

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\n","2019-05-21T14:29:00.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/43294943/cartier-art-deco-emerald-diamond-brooch",574,645,43294943,{"_3106":3151,"_3108":153,"_3109":3152,"_131":3153,"_3112":3154,"_3114":3155,"_3116":103,"_427":3156,"_3118":1476,"_3119":415,"_3120":3157,"_407":238,"_3122":3158,"_3124":3159,"_3126":3160},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/127_002-a1cb71ad-5698-4df3-86e0-90a4625f88f4_s600x0.jpg","Senior Specialist Eva Violante unravels the mythical history of the Kashmir sapphire, demonstrated in a Bulgari ring from our upcoming Jewels auction in New York.","Bulgari in Blue: An Important Kashmir Sapphire, Diamond and Platinum Ring","

A landslide in the early 1800s laid bare a deposit of intense blue stones with a unique velvety texture in Kashmir, the Himalayan state in northern India. Nearly one century later, in 1882, the Indian Museum confirmed that the stones unearthed in the remote Kudi Valley by an unexpected geological event were indeed the mineral corundum.

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Since their discovery, Kashmir sapphires have acquired a legendary status...
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Upon learning news that the vein was replete with crystal Kashmir sapphires, the Maharaja of Kashmir swiftly purchased the land, which he mined aggressively until 1887 when the supply was depleted and production was officially halted. Though poachers continued to excavate the earth through 1906, the Kashmir mine was officially active for only five years.

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From left: Sketch plan of the Kashmir sapphire mines, Pádar, Kashmir. Photograph by T.D. LaTouche of the Kashmir sapphire mines.

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Since their discovery, Kashmir sapphires have acquired a legendary status for their unmatched rich blue hue, velvet texture and rarity. Kashmir sapphires constitute a minuscule percentage of the globe's total sapphire supply. Thus, finding an example is a truly unusual stroke of good fortune. Discovering an unheated gem quality Kashmir surpassing five carats, as in the present example from our New York Jewels auction on 7 June, is a remarkable event.

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Time and time again gemologists and geologists have returned to Kashmir desperate to uncover another mythical blue deposit but without success—making the production mined through 1887 increasingly desirable. For this reason, auction is one of the few existing avenues whereby gem connoisseurs can attain the revered stones.

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Though gem quality sapphires are discovered in Burma, Madagascar and Sri Lanka, no other deposit comes close to rivaling the deep royal blue hue and vivid color born out of Kashmir's mountains—a region that is today divided among three countries: Pakistan, India and the People's Republic of China.

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\n","2019-05-19T18:14:00.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/43377165/bulgari-in-blue-an-important-kashmir-sapphire-diamond-and-platinum-ring",582,652,43377165,{"_3106":3162,"_3108":153,"_3109":3163,"_131":3164,"_3112":3165,"_3114":3166,"_3116":103,"_427":3167,"_3118":1476,"_3119":415,"_3120":3168,"_407":151,"_3122":3169,"_3124":3170,"_3126":3171},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/85_004-ae8306a0-29c8-498d-b26d-1b467a7f4254_s600x0.jpg","Before Phillips brings an exceptional specimen to auction, Graduate Gemologist Alexi Riggins takes a look at what makes grandidierite so difficult to mine and cut. ","A Rare, Important Grandidierite ","

Over a century has passed since grandidierite was first discovered at the cliffs of Andrahomana in Madagascar, yet little facet-grade material has been unearthed. Several sources have been reported across the world, including Algeria, Antarctica, Canada, India, Italy, Malawi, New Zealand, Norway, Suriname and the United States, but deposits are often meager and deplete quickly. Most rough is small, and gem quality crystals larger than one millimeter have only been found in Madagascar and Sri Lanka. In 2014, a new deposit was located in southern Madagascar, about 35 miles northwest of the original discovery site. Near the village of Tranomaro, this new source produces one gem quality crystal for every 10,000 pieces of rough.

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Lot 85, An Important Grandidierite

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Prestige Gemstone Report from the American Gemological Laboratories

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Uncovering facet grade grandidierite is difficult on its own, but cutting the material adds another set of challenges. With two directions of cleavage, grandidierite is more susceptible to damage and breaking during the cutting process. Furthermore, it is a strongly trichroic gem, meaning that it can display a different body color in three crystal directions. It takes a skilled cutter to not only keep the stone intact throughout the cutting process, but to also plan for the stone to display its most desirable color face up.

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Lot 85, An Important Grandidierite

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This example offered for sale possesses a lovely saturated blue-green color and a secondary light yellow color at the edges, which is noticeable when rocked back and forth. While most grandidierite specimens are opaque, the little gem quality material that exists is typically translucent and cut into cabochons. However, this example is transparent and faceted with no eye visible inclusions.

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Certification of the gem's quality and exclusivity from AGL President, Christopher P. Smith

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Regarded as one of the rarest gemstones in the world, Phillips is honored to present this exceptional grandidierite. It’s high clarity, size of 4.78 carats and exquisite shade of blue-green converge to make it a truly remarkable example of an already precious and scarce mineral.

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\n","2019-05-20T17:53:19.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/43302152/an-important-grandidierite",575,648,43302152,{"_3106":3173,"_3108":153,"_3109":3174,"_131":3175,"_3112":3176,"_3114":3177,"_3116":103,"_427":3178,"_3118":1476,"_3119":415,"_3120":3179,"_407":281,"_3122":3180,"_3124":3181,"_3126":3182},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/img_0394-1-2094ea47-87ca-4a7a-910b-10ca3f4b04ff_s600x0.jpg","Ahead of this spring's Jewels auction, Associate Specialist Anne Mock spoke with featured designer Vishal Kothari to find out more about his path to becoming an independent jeweler. ","A Heritage Designer Goes His Own Way","

Contemporary jewelry designer Vishal Kothari in his studio

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Vishal Kothari grew up in Mumbai, surrounded by the jewelry and diamonds of his family’s third-generation jewelry design and manufacturing company. A Graduate Gemologist, he spent the first twenty years of his career working for the family business. Though the venture was fruitful, it did not provide Kothari with the creative satisfaction that he craved. In order to fulfill his artistic passions, he left the wholesale business to start his namesake jewelry design company, V.A.K. (Vishal Anil Kothari).

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I am always trying to push new boundaries in jewelry making... — Vishal Kothari
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A lover of all types of art and antiques, Kothari makes a point to visit museums whenever he travels to a different country. “Museums have a huge influence on my designs...For me a museum is my go-to place for peace and clarity of thought, like visiting a temple,” he explains. Though Kothari strives to tell a story of India’s history and culture in all his designs, he also looks forward into its future. He draws inspiration from India’s Mughal period, the British Gothic and Art Nouveau architecture of Mumbai, and the geometry of Art Deco jewelry. Combining these historical references with strong modern elements, Kothari creates his own unique and innovative wearable works of art.

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Lot 132, A Ruby, Diamond and Gold Ring

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In the case of this ruby and diamond ring up for auction on 7 June in NYC, Kothari explains: “I happened to come across a beautiful hexagon-shape, portrait-cut, flat diamond, of such high quality and shine that instantly, I acquired it.” The diamond gave birth to his design, acting as the center of the flower, with the custom-cut, non-treated ruby cabochons acting as the Mughal-shaped petals.

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The final piece references the architecture of Kothari’s homeland, gives a nod to the symmetry of the Art Deco period, and ultimately shows the influence of nature. “The contrast of the center flat diamond to the dark red ruby cabochons has its own beauty and life,” explains Kothari.

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Kothari conceptualizes his designs with passion and embellishes with only the best handpicked stones. “I am always trying to push new boundaries in jewelry making, using age old Indian manufacturing ideas but very modern engineering”, explains Kothari. The brand has invented a stone setting technique that allows the gems to shine from all angles, transforming them into metal-less, flexible parts, adding movement to his designs. Only producing between 125 to 150 pieces annually, each creation is one-of-a-kind and never replicated. Kothari always speaks of his work with a big smile: “Nothing makes me happier than seeing my vision translated into a three dimensional marvel.”

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