The wristwatches produced during the rebirth of Urban Jürgensen as a brand in the 1980s and 1990s epitomize the marriage of old and new in a way that breathed fresh life into contemporary watchmaking. New owner Peter Baumberger, with his partner, the much-heralded English watchmaker Derek Pratt and with the help of the young Kari Voutilainen, set out to rebuild the brand still committed to the original tenets of technical excellence, traditional aesthetics, and handmade master craftsmanship.

Subtle yet important details add up to make the present timepiece a must have for the savvy collector. The hand guilloché dial requires hundreds of different operations, the satin outer track with Roman numerals and simple minute divisions frames the clean guilloché center. The indication for day, date, month and moon phases are symmetrically placed: the windows for day and month horizontally; the subdials for moon phases and date vertically. The tear drop lugs have been individually forged, heat treated, hand polished and individually soldered onto the watch case in a way which makes the soldering line invisible to the naked eye. The moon disc is also made by hand, it is crafted from mirror polished blued steel, in which the stars are manually inlaid in gold and two solid 18 karat gold, mirror polished moons are fitted. The present Reference 3 also features a power reserve indicator stylishly placed beneath the moonphase display.

An ultra-slim, Fredric Piguet-based automatic perpetual calendar movement beats within and is beautifully finished with a 21 karat gold winding rotor. The beauty of this Reference 3 is only outshone by its utter rarity as it is cased in pink gold, a metal this reference is known for in only a handful of pieces.