The DNA of Cartier is made up of many strands of jewelry and watchmaking design excellence: the Crash, the Tank, the Juste Un Clou, the LOVE bracelet, and the Panthère to name a few. Just as instantly identifiable as inimitably Cartier is the Tutti Frutti, a dazzling display of carved gems directly inspired by the obsession with the exotic that flourished during the Art Deco period. Typically crafted as spectacular gem-studded bracelets of carved rubies, sapphires, emeralds, studded with diamonds, and accented with black enamel, Cartier-signed vintage Tutti Frutti bracelets have been known to fetch millions of dollars at auction. It is no wonder that Cartier further elaborated on this lavish design heritage in the 1970s and 1980s with a line of watches that fully celebrated the unique character of Tutti Frutti. Most of the examples are relatively more restrained, with only a few carved gems and diamonds set into the case and fitted with a strap, but some, like the present lot, are adorned fully with a spectacular treatment of gem-setting and embellishment.

To the best of our knowledge, the exact same watch has not appeared publicly, making this piece potentially unique. The dial is set with pavé diamonds, as is the bezel, and the hour markers are alternating rubies and emeralds. The crown is set with a cabochon diamond. The bracelet is set with rows of sapphires, carved emeralds and rubies in a flower motif, and then rows of diamonds repeated throughout the gold bracelet. Our research shows only two other similar pieces have appeared; one in white gold and one in yellow gold in a similar configuration but with a sapphire cabochon crown instead of a diamond cabochon crown, rows of emeralds instead of rows of sapphires, and carved rubies only. The present Cartier Baignoire Joallierie “Tutti Frutti” is offered in excellent condition, having hardly ever been worn.