Bejewelled timepieces have been for a long time “sleepers” in the world of watch collecting. It is only in recent years that the market rediscovered them for the form of industrial art they represent: the gem setting standard achieved by top end watchmakers easily rivals that of the most important jewellers and the aesthetic power of these timepieces is often breathtaking.

Spurred by the introduction of iconic contemporary pieces such as the Gem-set Nautilus and the Rolex Rainbow, gem-set watches are finally reaching a level of collectability equal to that of their less adorned siblings.

Patek Philippe has always taken enormous pride in the gem-setting standard achieved in its workshops, even when bejewelled timepieces were either diminutive ladies watches or hard-to-sell large-size pieces. The present watch exemplifies the attention to detail and overall superb mastery of the craft achieved by the company. A fully bejewelled Nautilus from the year 1987 is also testament to Patek Philippe's market strategy: even at a time when gem-set watches were less popular, they decided to create fully diamond-encrusted Nautilus versions, possibly as “statement pieces”. It is no surprise that the model did not find many clients, and it is thus one of the rarest Nautilus versions ever made.

So far, only five examples 3800/108 have resurfaced on the public market.

A closer look at the watch highlights not only the aforementioned superb gem-setting skill of Patek Philippe artisans, but also the attention to detail of their design department. For example, when looking at the tiny sliver of case between the lugs, one notices that it is too narrow for diamonds to be set in it. So, in order to minimise the difference in looks with the adjacent gem-set lugs’ topside, the band is hand engraved with tiny dots mimicking the sparkling effect of diamond pavé.