Rolex released the first Submariner reference 6204 in 1954, and over the last 68 years it has become one of the brand’s most enduring and cherished tool wristwatches ever produced. Highly sought after by collectors, the Submariner is firmly entrenched in the pantheon of horology, and has evolved into a modern timepiece that is as wearable at the office, an evening event, and for its original use when diving, or beachcombing. Rolex transformed the model in 1959 with the reference 5512 with the addition of the now ubiquitous crown guards. While the earliest iterations featured squared crown guards, later generations like the present model displayed rounded crown guards.

The present “4-liner” reference 5512 features its stunning and original “Swiss T<25” black glossy dial with gilt signature and silver gilt “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” (SCOC) designation at 6 o’clock. While both the reference 5512 and 5513 featured the same case and bracelet, the reference 5512 was fitted with a movement tested and certified for accuracy and precision by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, and it is this additional two lines added to the dial that sets the reference 5512 apart from its contemporary counterpart, the reference 5513.

Apart from a well-preserved case, this 5512 maintains one of the most attractive, pristine, and outright stunning dials we as specialists have had the pleasure of examining. Each perfectly shaped demi-sphere of original luminous material has aged to a lovely, even golden-beige, uniform in color and consistency. The black gloss dial is free of any blemish or flaw, and tilted back and forth under the light, it shows no signs of aging, displaying a fresh and striking luminosity. Fitted with a superb Attila Aszodi strap, a lightly faded insert encircles this feat of preservation, having aged to an almost bronze-grey hue.