Paul Boutros, Head of Americas
Lot 127 – Patek Philippe Reference 2499, retailed by Howes
Carefully tucked away in a private American collection and unseen for decades, the Patek Philippe reference 2499 retailed by the American retailer, B.D. Howes, is one of the most exciting and important examples of the reference I’ve had the privilege of handling. Featuring the rarely seen ‘HOWES’ retailer signature within its sub-dial at 6 o’clock, it is most certainly the only reference 2499 to exist with this exclusive signature.
Last appearing at a prestigious auction in Geneva in the year 2000 when it was offered publicly for the first time, it sold for CHF 185,000, a remarkable result for a third series 2499. Examining the catalog photograph when originally sold, it’s immediately apparent that the dial and case remain in the identical condition as they appeared back then. The dial’s raised, hard enamel print remains completely original and totally intact throughout. Vibrant and with hardly any signs of aging, the dial was, in our collective opinion, never touched, restored, or cleaned in any way.
The Wenger-made case is equally stunning. The dramatic, down-turned lugs retain the sharp step that is emblematic of the 2499, just as it left the factory nearly five decades ago. The ‘18K’ hallmark, as expected for a U.S.-retailed watch, found on the caseback is perfectly crisp, as is the original, vertical brushed finishing found at its center. The inside caseback is engraved “HOX”, the import code for the U.S., in perfect harmony with its American retailer signature.
The reference 2499 is widely considered the pinnacle of the brand’s vintage models in terms of design, size, legibility, and watchmaking quality. For scholars, the Howes 2499 is often discussed with great reverence, achieving an almost mythical status since first appearing on the market. Consigned by the family of a prominent American collector, we are thrilled to have been entrusted with its sale.
Melissa Dahl, Sale and Business Development Manager
Lot 100 – Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon
In the 62 years of Grand Seiko the Kodo, Japanese for heartbeat, is the brand’s first mechanical complication. It is also the world’s first combination of a tourbillon and constant-force mechanism on a single axis. Aside from the beauty in the openworked design showcasing the “heartbeat” of the watch, the sounds of the escapement and the once-per-second impulse of the constant-force mechanism can also be heard in a special rhythm. I might be a novice to watches, but something that is easy for even a newcomer to understand is that it is incredibly special to be the “first” to do something.
Erica Downs, Administrator
Lot 67 – Rolex Day-Date “Stella”
Launched in 1956, the Day-Date model was the first timepiece to display the day and week in full. Ref. 1803 has become one of the most sought-after watches Rolex has produced – not only due to its practicality, but its attractiveness.
The classic 36mm diameter, gold fluted bezel and gold bracelet, officially named the President bracelet, is iconic on its own. Ref. 1803’s lacquer dials have been manufactured in an array of colors; however, this particular model sports a rare and complimentary azure blue dial.
In my opinion, there is nothing more essential than having a timepiece that represents functionality and beauty; the 1803 Day-Date “Stella” perfectly epitomizes the juxtaposition between a traditional watch with a modern aesthetic, suitable for both men and women on any occasion.
Doug Escribano, Senior International Specialist
Lot 70 – Rolex “Padellone” Reference 8171 in Stainless Steel
The 1950s were an exceptional period in horological design with some of the most iconic timepieces known today from this era. Rolex tool watches had a tremendous impact on the history of timekeeping, yet the brands only two full calendar watches, the reference 8171 and 6062, from the same generation were equally impressive in both design and history. The references were a departure from tool watches to a complicated gentleman’s wristwatch. Classic and masculine they were produced for only a short period of time, and offered in yellow and pink gold, as well as stainless steel. Lot 179 is a wonderful representation of this golden age in watchmaking. Coming from the family of the original owner, the watch was a cherished treasure of the owner and remains well-preserved since it was first purchased in the early 1950s. It is impressive with a 38mm diameter case, and its combination of quality and rarity adds to its overall appeal to collectors.
Eliana Glass, Department Assistant
Lot 128 – Patek Philippe Reference 1415 “Robert Stack”
I like the Patek Philippe yellow gold wristwatch for its ornate sun and moon details. Upon magnification, a golden moon hangs from the grey rim of the bezel, bearing an appeased expression. Meanwhile, an ochre sun bears no expression at all, and floats weightlessly on the opposite side of the dial. Besides being intricate images in and of themselves, these visual signs point to the original signifiers of time, night and day. Listen to the stunning Billie Holiday perform her own rendition of Cole Porter’s “Night and Day”, from the same era as this historical timepiece.
Benjamin Kramer, Photographer
Lot 112 – Urwerk UR-102 x Cooper Jacoby Unique Piece for TimeForArt
My specialist pick is the Urwerk UR-102. This is a unique piece being auctioned in collaboration with TimeForArt to benefit Swiss Institute. I rarely encounter a watch that surprises me and hypnotizes me as this one has. This Urwerk is a chimera. It’s analogue and digital. It’s sleek and sculptural. It’s technical and immersive. And, best of all, it changes colors! The thermochromic pigments of the Urwerk UR-102 produce the most ephemeral and dynamic watch display I’ve experienced.
Isabella Proia, Head of Sale New York
Lot 64 – Rolex Reference 3131 “Bubbleback”
I am not sure if love at first sight exists between humans – I feel there are more complexities at play for interpersonal dynamics – but I know it exists for watches, and it’s how I felt the first time I set eyes on this 14K yellow gold Rolex “Bubbleback”. The condition is incredible, with a sharp case, strong hallmarks including a “C” import code punched deeply to the reverse of one lug, and best of all, an original numbered hang tag complete with a tropical scene. The dial has taken on an ivory tone, perfectly complementing the deep, almost rosy, champagne colored case. Set upon my wrist, it fits absolutely perfectly, like it was meant to be there, with a vintage and near-NOS leather strap.