The Swiss watch industry's largest trade show is drawing to a close this weekend, and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo was present the entire week.
Our Senior Editorial Manager Logan Baker was on the ground meeting with the brands and working on new stories and content that will be published in the following weeks and months. Senior Consultant Aurel Bacs was featured in an live discussion in front of an audience focused on watch valuation. And you could find various team members visiting the other pop-up shows and exhibitions throughout the week. Of course, we're also a proud sponsor of the second edition of the AHCI Masters of Horology event that occured simultaneously this week.
But what about the watches? Well, here are a few of our team member's top picks from throughout the entire week.
Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium Ref. 226627
Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant
I am currently in a “less is more” mood, but I'm paying more attention than ever before to legibility, wearability, timeless and simple design, and eternal quality. And here we are with a launch that I didn’t see coming this year: the Yacht-Master in RLX titanium. Admittedly, the Yacht-Master family never had rockstar-like success like the Submariner, GMT-Master Daytona, or even dressier models like the Datejust or Day-Date.
But this year, however, it has won my heart – and also convinced my brain and wallet. Regrettably, I have not yet had the opportunity to touch it or try it on, but the satin-finished case paired with vintage-inspired chamfers have a strong argument for a guy living in a world of nostalgia. Pair this with the ultra-light case material, which apparently weighs less than 100 grams, and a dial that wins hands-down in the legibility category, and you have, in my view, a winner.
P.S., Having said so, could I go shopping at Rolex this spring (without having to go to the checkout counter), my basket would also include the new (actually, not quite, it already existed some 50 years ago…) GMT-Master in yellow gold with Jubilee bracelet, as well the newly launched Perpetual 1908 – a wonderful cross-over between a classic gentleman’s wristwatch and a vintage Oyster model. And, lastly, for those who thought they knew me well: I could not resist but also pack the shockingly cool Jigsaw Day-Date (or whatever the name or reference number is), and wear it when I am “in the mood.”
Rolex Day-Date 36 'Jigsaw'
Paul Boutros, Head Of Watches, The Americas
Whimsical, exceptional, and completely unexpected, the new Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 128238 “Jigsaw” is the star of Watches & Wonders 2023 for me. Fitted with a champlevé enamel dial, it’s a modern re-interpretation of the extraordinary vintage Rolex watches made with cloisonné enamel dials during the early 1950s – the first Rolex to use an enamel dial in nearly seven decades. With its vibrant colors, joyful words at 12 o’clock, and positive emojis at 3 o’clock, it shows us that Rolex can be a playful brand full of surprises. While not for everyone of course, for me, it was love at first sight and certainly put a smile on my face.
HYT Moonrunner
Alexandre Ghotbi, Head Of Watches, Continental Europe And EMEA
I’ve always been fascinated with HYT's quirky way of indicating passing hours via colored liquid in a tube/ However, with the Moonrunner, they've upped their game on many levels with a new disruptive new case design, a very legible day/date indication, and the star of the show: a large spherical moonphase display with an intricately hand painted moon perfectly depicting the lunar surface.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5316P
Arthur Touchot, International Head Of Digital Strategy, Specialist
It’s always so difficult to pick favorites at a watch fair, and we’ve been treated to a particularly good crop of new releases in 2023, so instead of giving out a "best-in-show" award to a single piece I’d like to highlight a few that stood out to me for different reasons.
The watch that surprised me the most is the new titanium Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. I’ve never been a huge fan of the Yacht-Master. But I love the material, and Rolex has used it perfectly here in a model that isn’t too big. The watch I was most excited to see make a comeback was Urwerk’s UR-102 Reloaded (again, in titanium, and I prefer the natural grey version), which is unlike any other watch in the industry.
I do love a bit of gold though, and there’s a new reference in the Rolex GMT-Master II family that has plenty of it. I’m glad to see in on a good Jubilee bracelet and was pleasantly surprised by the bezel’s monochromatic color scheme. It's my guilty pleasure of this year's fair, for sure.
The best re-interpretation of a classic model has to be Cartier’s new Tank Normale in platinum. The seven-link brick bracelet is such a classic but certain details such as the beveled crystal help give this particular 2023 release its own identity. Finally, the best update to an existing model has to be the Patek Philippe ref. 5316P, now with a clear but fumé dial – a first for the Maison.
Cartier Tank Normale
Isabella Proia, Head Of Sale, New York
The first Collection Privé offering on a bracelet, I’ve chosen the Cartier Tank Normale as my top Watches & Wonders pick, particularly because it sticks largely to the original vintage proportions rather than upsizing it into something just slightly unwearable. Of course, that doesnt mean that the watch is attainable for me, but at least if the opportunity were to arise, I could conceivably wear it.
My only quibble is the dial. It's a bit too reminiscent of the Tank Française, and I think it could have done without the chemin de fer. It would have been cleaner, a bit less cluttered, and different it from any other catalog offerings.
I would love it in platinum on a bracelet, or yellow gold fitted on a tan calfskin strap.
Tudor Black Bay 54
Zi Yong Ho, Co-Head of Sale. Hong Kong
I have been a huge fan of the Tudor Black Bay model since its introduction in 2012, and with the release of Black Bay 54 this year, it sure caught my attention. It is the watch that I would love to get my hands on once it’s on the market. The compact case diameter of 37mm, with the combination of the vintage font on the dial, is an excellent tribute to Tudor's first dive watch, the Submariner ref. 7922. Lastly, its fantastic price point allows a general accessibility to any watch enthusiast looking for a robust vintage-inspired diver watch.
Bravo.
Cartier Clash [un]limited
Doug Escribano, Senior International Specialist
Cartier has long been a favorite, known for some of the most unique and dynamic designs of the early 20th century, and this year’s release of the lady’s Clash [Un]limited collection is appealing and interesting. While diehard collectors will question a quartz wristwatch, these bracelet watches are an unconventional contemporary mix of form and function.
An eccentric bracelet with a watch, it draws inspiration from the 2019 Cartier Clash jewellery collection with a distinctly streetwear aesthetic. Inspired by the legacy of Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s director of jewellery from the 1930s until the 1970s, the jewelery and watches have articulated bracelets with geometric forms, studs, and clous carrés.
The watches were designed by the Cartier watchmaking studios and are exemplary of the craftsmanship from the Maison. Attention to detail is a Cartier hallmark, and this is seen throughout the new release from the faceted crystal to the beads that roll over each other, and the hinges of the bracelet that allow for a more comfortable wearing experience. While edgy, they have a distinctive look that reads classic Cartier. In particular, the rose gold model with diamonds, black spinel, coral, chrysoprase, and tsavorites has an Art Deco flair that's reminiscent of the 1920s, however is still modern and relevant for today.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager
A whole new chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne? Could I have any other choice?
And it's not any old chronograph – A. Lange & Söhne's latest introduces an entirely new form of tracking the elapsed time, utilizing a central minutes and seconds hand installed inside the now-classic Odysseus case. The only German watchmaker present at Watches & Wonders 2023 came to impress.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.