- By Arthur Touchot, with photography from James Kong and Hodinkee
Held for the first time in 2012, in Dubai, the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition quickly established itself as one of the most important events of its industry, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world. An extraordinary showcase of the watchmaker’s history, the Grand Exhibition has collectors excited months before the event’s doors open not least because of the promise of extremely limited editions. In some ways, the Grand Exhibition has become to watch collectors what the Cannes Film Festival is to film buffs. Except it isn’t held every year, it changes host city with every edition, and nobody knowns what Patek Philippe will present during the event. OK – so it’s not really like the Cannes Film Festival. Not even close really. In fact, the only way to truly understand the event is to experience it for oneself.
One of its unique qualities is that it was conceived to please two very different types of visitors – those who have already attended in the past and subsequently experience the need to go to every edition for fear of missing out (I joined that group in 2015 after attending the London Exhibition at the Saatchi gallery), and those going in with zero expectations and equal amounts of experience of the watch world, and discover it in the most extraordinary way thanks to one of its most storied diplomats (I now wish I could once again attend the Grand Exhibition for the first time).
Being sadly unable to attend this year’s Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, I did the next best thing and reached out to my Japanese colleagues, Kaz Fujimoto and Genki Sakamoto, who recently spent a couple of days covering every inch of the event’s 2,500 square meters in the company of Thomas Perazzi. I asked them to share their impressions of the event in the hopes of recapturing a little bit of that magic that I felt back in 2015. In case you missed it as well, I hope the following interview helps lessen your FOMO.
The Patek Philippe Tokyo 2023 Grand Exhibition
Arthur Touchot : For the sixth edition of the Grand Exhibition, Patek Philippe chose Tokyo, the capital city of one of its leading markets. Can you tell us a bit more about the historical relationship between the brand and Japanese collectors, and why this was such a highly anticipated event locally?
Kaz Fujimoto : Japan has a long-standing relationship with Patek Philippe. In the 1980s, the Japanese economy recorded spectacular growth and during that time many department store sales executives invited their best customers to Geneva to visit Patek Philippe’s manufacture and educate them on the brand. Clients really appreciated the history of the brand and its emphasis on craftsmanship, and related to these values which are important in Japan.
Genki Sakamoto : Patek Philippe had previously made special editions for the Japanese market, some of the most beloved being those made in matching pairs. This tradition started in the 1970s and was honored by this year’s Grand Exhibition with the introduction of the References 6127G-0 and 7127G-010.
AT : Given the brand’s success in Japan, it wasn’t surprising to learn that Patek Philippe conceived it as the largest exhibition ever held. However, there may have been some concern until opening day because this was the first Exhibition held after COVID-19. Do you think that impacted the event’s attendance, in a positive or negative way?
KF : Patek Philippe had to postpone the event due to the pandemic and I’m sure that had an impact on some of their choices, perhaps even the choice of venue. They needed to think about social distancing, and this meant choosing a very large space to avoid congestion – which you would expect given the brand’s popularity. In 2014, Patek Philippe celebrated its 175th anniversary in Japan with an event that so packed that people had to queue for several hours to get in. So, it might have more open than previous events, but actually local clients saw appreciate the fact they were able to really see and even talk to watchmakers and artists. Many spent several hours at the exhibition, perhaps longer than they would have if the event had felt too crowed.
AT : Because Patek Philippe has previously launched new releases in tandem with the opening of a new Grand Exhibition, there was a lot of buzz around this year’s event, with many international collectors made the trip to Tokyo to see these watches in-person. Did the new releases help build some hype around the event, and was the impact of international visitors felt locally?
Thomas Perazzi : The buzz was simply tremendous. As the Grand Exhibition was scheduled for 2022 but postponed to this year due to COVID-19, the expectations were extremely high. Collectors from Asia, Europe and America flew to Tokyo to attend the event. It was definitely a worldwide meeting point for all watch collectors.
KF: The new releases were one of the event’s main attractions, and Japanese collectors were not disappointed. The collection was extremely well catered to local tastes. As for international visitors, so many flew in for the experience and the watches, but I can’t say if they felt the same way about all the new releases.
AT : For those who did not make it, can you share your first impressions, as you first stepped inside the Exhibition?
KF : Basically, it feels like you are in Geneva. Not just the parts of the city invested by Patek Philippe, such as its museum or its Salon, but the city as a whole. Walking through the exhibition felt like visiting Geneva, which was a totally new experience to those who have never been to Switzerland.
TP : As I worked for over 10 years in Geneva, I was impressed to see at the entrance the re-production of the Horloge Fleurie with a wall screen showing the lake view from the Jardin des Anglais. I felt almost at home! Inside, the attention goes to a re-designed European style square or “piazza”, an open space where a company video was showed. You forget you are standing inside a futuristic building based in Shinjuku. Except for the Japanese language heard everywhere in the background, it really did feel like you were in Geneva.
AT : Patek Philippe created six new releases for the Exhibition, led by a seriously updated reference 5308 in the Grand Exhibition colours (white metal / salmon dial), as well a series of watches honouring the host city and country. Can you share your impressions of the new releases, starting with the so-called big three: the Quadruple Complication (ref. 5308P-010), the World Time (Ref. 5330G-010) and the World Time Minute Repeater (Ref. 5531R-014).
KF : All these watches were basically “wow!”. Especially, the Ref. 5308P and Ref. 5530G. I was able to talk to the watchmakers that had first-hand experience making it, and they explained the new mechanism using large scale models which was helpful and very interesting. For the Ref. 5531R there was a lot speculation among collectors from around the world. Some said the enamel dial would depict Mt. Fuji. When the watch was released, some were disappointed, others were surprised. Staff present during the exhibition told me it was really difficult to position Tokyo's map on the dial. Originally they wanted to place the Imperial Palace in the middle the dial but that meant putting a hole in the middle of the Palace, which was determined to be in bad taste. So shifted the map, but it now shows many of the important and iconic parts of Tokyo such as Ginza, Tokyo station, Tsukiji and Tokyo Bay.
GS : The Ref. 5330G is very interesting, not just technically. Patek Philippe’s color of choice this entire exhibition was purple, a color with many positive connotations in Japan – it is commonly associated with wisdom, spirituality, and nobility. It was the perfect choice, and the dial of the Ref. 5330G, which the brand calls “Plum” is beautifully rendered.
AT : Patek Philippe also treated local collectors to a spectacular new range in the Rare Handcrafts collection. With forty pieces to choose from, some limited in production and others being unique, the collection was extremely board. That seems like a very intentional choice to recognize the appetite Japanese collectors have for centuries-old artisanal crafts? What were your personal highlights from this collection?
KF : My highlight is the dome clock with Tokyo city skyline at night, featuring views of the bay, the Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo Tower. You feel like traveling to Tokyo with this clock.
TP : I was particularly impressed by the number of exquisite Rare Handcrafts timepieces that were dedicated to this Grand Exhibition and to the Japanese market. All the most complex techniques have been beautifully used to represent Japanese history and culture. My attention was caught by all the enameling techniques presented: champlevé, cloisonné, grand feu, flinqué all featuring Japanese scenes. My personal choice will go the unique Grand Fleu Cloisonné small dome clock reference 10025m, the “Japanese Parasols” based on a local woodprint called snow scenes in modern Tokyo. The vivid colors, the umbrella movements and the Kanji font on the dial really caught my eyes. I would love to have it on my desk.
GS : It was nice to see so many artisanal crafts in one place. Many Japanese collectors mentioned the Rare Handcrafts collection was the highlight of the Grand Exhibition. Patek Philippe presented forty one=on-a-kind and limited edition, my favourite being the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” featuring a dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.
AT : The Grand Exhibition also offers enthusiasts a rare opportunity to see Patek Philippe’s master watchmakers in action, outside of Switzerland. For some members of the public, this might have been their first time seeing traditional watch crafts in person. Can you tell us how much this added to the overall experience.
KF : This added a lot. The fact that you could see their work with your own eyes, and ask them questions, a lot of collectors really appreciated this aspect of the Grand Exhibition, and the fact that Patek Philippe had made the effort to bring this to Japan. This was probably the most exciting part of this exhibition.
AT : Another regular feature of the Exhibition is the Museum Room – in which Patek Philippe presents part of the collection found in its world-famous Geneva Museum. For this particular edition, Patek Philippe brough some 190 pieces to Tokyo, which feels quite significant. Can you tell us about some of the highlights of the collection? As someone who has visited the Museum in Geneva, can you share how well that experience was re-created in Tokyo?
KF : This was very well received. There are a lot of new and young collectors now. They know only modern models such as the Aquanaut and the Nautilus. They were shocked to see how far back the collection goes. A lot of them commented that they had no idea that Patek Philippe made complicated watches more than 100 years ago.
TP : What is always remarkable about the Museum in Geneva is that the exhibition isn’t exclusive to Patek Philippe timepieces. The Maison’s selection also covers the great watchmakers from the XVII to the XIX Century, including Breguet, Berthoud, and Arnold to mention just a few. It is always fascinating to admire super complicated pocket watches from the Henry Graves’ collection and timepieces with Royal provenance, not to mention the iconic Caliber 89 and the Star Caliber made to celebrate the new millennium.
GS : Personally I found this to be the best part of the exhibition. I have been to the museum in Geneva but experienced the collection in a different way. It was very compact this time and seeing the history of watchmaking in a single room makes it easier to understand. This was perfect for people who don’t have any knowledge of the brand or of watchmaking’s long history.
AT : What other activations stood out to you, and do you think we will see other watch brands draw inspiration of the Tokyo 2023 Grand Exhibition for their own events?
KF : Watches are industrial instruments but seeing watchmakers and artisans in person made them realize they are not just time keeping instruments. Japanese collectors really appreciate the artistic side of the crafts. Many admit they look at their phones to know the time, and seeing the people behind the watches gave them a new appreciation for watchmaking. I don’t think other watch events can match the Grand Exhibition in terms of scale, but others such as De Bethune and Cartier are already hosting intimate events in Japan. Both told me that hosting physical events was becoming even more important in the digital age.
AT : Do you feel like the Exhibition lived up to people’s expectations?
KF : Absolutely, this was definitely the most exciting event held this side of the pandemic, especially for local collectors. Visitors came from all over the country – I spoke to clients from Sapporo, Nagoya, Osaka, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, and other cities. What was also interesting was the age split of the group, which went from elementary school kids to seniors. I also saw many families. It kind of fits with the brand’s campaign “You never actually own a Patek. You merely look after it for the next generation”. This surpassed their expectations.
Phillips x HODINKEE Japan Meet-up in Tokyo
- Photos by Cedric Diradourian and Masaharu Wada
AT : Just 24 hours after the closing of the Grand Exhibition, you co-hosted the first PHILLIPS x HODINKEE Japan event in Tokyo. Did the conversation switch to broader topics, or was the Exhibition still very much on everyone’s minds?
KF : The exhibition was still a hot topic, but people wanted to talk about lots of other topics as well, including the auction season, watches from other brands, and the industry as a whole.
AT : HODINKEE is known for attracting younger profiles, and collectors with eclectic tastes. Can you share some of the most interesting watches you saw that evening?
KF : This was the first event with HODINKEE Japan, and the goal was to introduce their readers to Phillips and the auction world. Mr. Mark Cho and Mr. Naoya Hida also joined us, which made the event very exciting. The event began with a panel hosted by the magazine’s Editor-in-Chief, Mr. Yu Sekiguchi, and it we had a very big crowd. In fact, we were slightly over capacity. We saw enthusiasts we are not used to seeing. They were very enthusiastic and curious, asking lots of questions which is rare for Japanese collectors to do. They were not familiar with how auctions operate and wanted to know how to consign and how to bid. Many brought us watches after the event for appraisals, and others enjoyed taking photos of the watches present while waiting in line. We saw plenty of nice watches, including watches we do not typically see at auctions.
AT : Vintage watches have historically been an area of focus for Japanese collectors. Do you feel this is still the case in 2023, or are we seeing in Japan what we’re seeing globally with younger clients, which is to say a growing interest in modern and independent watchmaking?
KF : Younger enthusiasts seem more into modern, independent, and neo-vintage watches, such as Patek Philippe, A. Lange and Cartier watches from the turn of the century. One watch that stood out was an A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Ref. 101.02X made as limited edition with the Mitsukoshi Department Store. We also saw a very beautiful Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 with a nice tropical dial, a new mono-pusher chronograph from Ming, and a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Roma made for the Japanese market.
For HODINKEE's full photo report, please click here.
View the full Patek Philippe Tokyo 2023 Grand Exhibition catalogue here.
About Arthur Touchot
Arthur Touchot is a former journalist who specialized in the luxury market. Having earned a master’s degree in journalism at Northwestern University, Arthur combined his love of watches and words by becoming a regular contributor to The New York Times and the Financial Times at the start of his career, later becoming senior European editor at Hodinkee. In 2017, Arthur joined Phillips as International Head of Digital Strategy to lead the global content and digital marketing strategy of the auction house’s watch department, and has been involved in bringing some of the world’s rarest timepieces to auction.
Recommended Reading
The Importance of Patek Philippe's Advances Research Division
A Guide To The Patek Philippe Celestial Series
Aurel Bacs to Auctioneer Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5207T Donated to Children Action