Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is a proud sponsor of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), one of the most influential horological associations in the world. The Horological Society of New York is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education, and Phillips is thrilled to once again host the organization's annual charity auction, including an Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403, with all proceeds going toward supporting the HSNY's goals.
– Logan Baker
One of the most exciting trends to track over the past decade in watchmaking has been the gradual steps taken by various value-driven brands to enhance the technical merit behind their product, through the development of in-house or proprietary movements.
That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with relying on ébauche-based calibers. It's a time-tested strategy that today's Swiss watch industry was effectively built on. However, when a watchmaker or brand identifies a way to improve on their existing horological chops without drastically increasing their prices, it can be nothing but a positive thing for collectors everywhere.
Developing an in-house mechanical movement that isn't just a rehash of an existing caliber isn't an easy task. There's only so many ways to skin a cat, after all, so when a company invests their time, energy, and a significant amount of capital in creating something proprietary, it reveals their internal watchmaking philosophy.
Nomos Glashütte, with its DUW movement series, is the classic modern example of an accessible brand that's made a major investment in their internal watchmaking abilities in the 21st century. But a more recent entrant – or, more correctly, re-entrant – into the category is Oris, the plucky independent watch brand from Hölstein, Switzerland, a city better known for its bovine residents than its watchmaking ones.
Oris' modern catalog has typically been dominated by ébauche-based movements, typically equipped with Oris' trademark red rotor, sourced from ETA or Sellita. These watches were typically priced in the low four figures and were often considered the go-to option for neophyte collectors looking for their first luxury Swiss mechanical watch.
Things changed a few years ago. Oris still produces those ébauche-powered watches, but they're now complemented by a higher-end option featuring a new proprietary movement platform developed internally by Oris over half a decade of R&D. Officially introduced in late 2020, the self-winding caliber 400 showcased an extremely impressive level of thought and consideration into its architecture and features. And the best part was that Oris maintained its pricing strategy in the sub-$5,000 range. Watches with the caliber 400, and its later derivatives, came with a higher price tag than their simpler siblings, sure, but it wasn't a shocking rise, especially when comparing its spec sheet to similarly priced brands.
The caliber 400 was the kind of release that can completely change the perspective one has on the Oris brand – and yet, it still feels like it flies a touch under the radar, despite a movement that more than speaks for itself.
Let's start with a triple-digit power reserve measuring 120 hours (or five days) of running autonomy. You won't find another new mechanical watch under $5,000 with longer. Then, there's an extra-high resistance to magnetism, which is tested up to 2,250 gauss, and an industry-leading 10-year service interval backed by a decade-long warranty. Oh, and accuracy? Each caliber 400 is tested in the range of plus-five to minus-three seconds per day.
There's also a unique escapement design focused on efficiency, with a silicon escape wheel and anchor; an updated gear train arrangement that reduces pressure on the individual wheels, improving the stability of the 4 Hz operating frequency, and a proprietary adjustment system that involves a screw-driven rack and pinion system controlling a micrometric regulator.
Oris ditched modern convention through the introduction of a smooth, simple sliding-friction clip bearing system that rotates around a fixed pivot – meaning no ball bearings – with a unidirectional winding oscillator. Oris utilized this approach after identifying key points of failure in a traditional ball-bearing, bidirectional winding system, all in order to maintain reliability and the company's promise of a 10-year service interval.
Another thing to appreciate about the caliber 400 is that it resurfaces Oris' underrated history as a watchmaker. The brand wasn't always reliant on industrial-produced ébauches. Between 1904, the year Oris was founded in Hölstein, and 1981, Oris developed more than 220 movements for their watches. And in the 1960s, Oris was particularly productive. I mean, who knew Oris once produced over one million mechanical watches each year, making it one of the 10 largest watchmakers in the world by the end of the decade?
Taken together, the level of ingenuity, accuracy, and usability present in the caliber 400 makes it the most impressive movement ever built by Oris. And since the movement's initial release, Oris has only developed the movement further, releasing the caliber 401, automatic with small seconds; the caliber 403, automatic with small seconds and pointer date; and the caliber 473, manual wind with small seconds and pointer date.
The version included in the HSNY's 2023 Charity Auction is the latter, released in its debut configuration earlier this year with an elegant light blue dial. The watch is brand new and was donated by Oris for the sale. If Oris' investments in in-house watchmaking over the past few years have interested you in any shape, there's no better opportunity to acquire the latest and greatest version for a good cause.
You can learn more about and bid on this Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 473, as well as explore the rest of the HSNY 2023 Charity Auction, right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade working in watch-focused media, reporting on every aspect of the industry. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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