Our first live auction of the fall 2023 season, the PHILLIPS Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII, takes place on November 3 and 4, at La Réserve Genève. The auction includes more than 180 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale over the next month, including every vintage chronogaph featured in this story.
There's something magical about vintage chronograph wristwatches, particularly those born in the middle period of the last century. Switzerland's top makers all offered some sort of chronograph wristwatch in their catalog at the time, with many of those references in the subsequent decades coming to define the vintage collecting hobby as a whole.
It's time we remember just how compelling these watches are. Auction catalogs from all the major houses have in recent years had a larger focus on contemporary, modern, and neo-vintage timepieces than ever before, but it's impossible to forget the influence that watches like the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 have had on all of watch collecting culture.
A focus on vintage chronographs is one big reason we're excited to reveal our catalog for the upcoming Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII. Its packed to the brim with tremendous examples of many of the most highly sought-after vintage chronograph wristwatches out there, from makers such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin.
Here are a few of our personal highlights from the sale.
Lot 9: A Circa 1945 Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4072
Estimate: CHF 50,000 - 100,000
The Vacheron Constantin ref. 4072 seen here is not only visually arresting thanks to its combination of a pink gold and steel case and a two-tone champagne dial but it's also preserved in absolutely astounding condition. Two-tone vintage watch cases have a certain graphic beauty to them. The present ref. 4072 in steel with pink gold bezel, crown, and chronograph pushers is a wonderful take on a classic design with a twist. The addition of an exquisite two-tone champagne dial to an already perfect equation elevates this watch to even greater heights.
In production from 1938 until the late 1960s, the ref. 4072 exudes a contemporary elegance. Vacheron Constantin produced the watch with both rare oval-shaped chronograph pushers, or as found on the present watch, more modern, rectangular-shaped pushers. Further, the 34mm case will feature either a beveled one (as seen here), or in rare cases, a flat one.
One of Vacheron Constantin’s most iconic and sought-after vintage chronograph wristwatches, especially in the present configuration, of which less than 70 are known, this particular ref. 4072 is distinguished by its immaculate case that's preserved in factory-fresh condition. The case appears larger on the wrist due to its elongated and powerful lugs as well as the wide dial opening. The present model is amongst the finest and best-preserved examples of the reference to appear on the market in recent memory.
Lot 91: A 1943 Patek Philippe Ref. 130 In Stainless Steel
Estimate: CHF 80,000 - 160,000
In 1934, Patek Philippe released its first serially produced chronograph wristwatch. Two years later, in 1936, with the advent of a new reference system, the model was renamed the ref. 130. Inspired by the Bauhaus movement’s “form follows function” creed, the watch features an extremely elegant and sleek 33mm case defined by simple, clean lines. The dial is also an interpretation of this philosophy, as the two-tone finish helps set the tachymeter and fifth-of-a-second scales apart from the central time indications: It's beautiful yet practical. While the gold cases featured slightly thinner, more elongated lugs, the stainless steel cases boast a more compact and masculine design. It is estimated that only 270 pieces in stainless steel were produced between 1937 to 1951, but when one looks for two-tone examples today, the totality of examples that have appeared at auction amounts to a mere 21 specimens.
The present model further distinguishes itself for its superlative dial condition and style. Presenting a stunningly strong two-tone effect and fully engraved-enameled graphics, the present 1943 dial features a long “Patek Philippe & Co” signature, highly sought-after by collectors and abandoned in the late 1940s. The die-hard connoisseur will also be delighted in discovering some subtle details of the graphics which are typical of earlier dials - such as the minutely serifed graphics employed for the numbers in the subsidiary counters (easily noticed when looking at the fours and twos), which will be abandoned in the late 1940s. Also note that the tachymeter scale is enameledl, typical of pre-war production; later dials usually featured an engraved, enameled center that could be adapted as needed by printing the appropriate scale on the outer blank sector.
Lot 94: A Circa 1924 Patek Philippe Single-Button Chronograph With Breguet Numerals In 18k Yellow Gold, 'The Centennial'
Estimate: CHF 250,000 - 500,000
The present single-button chronograph from Patek Phillippe is certainly one of the brand’s most historically important creations. In factm it's one of the earliest known chronograph wristwatches to have left the Patek Philippe ateliers. This timepiece is also part of an extremely low production run of 27 single-button chronographs, of which 16 had officer cases like the present model.
This chronograph is also a superb gem of horological design with its delicate round case, short lugs and large crown. The dial layout is also unusual with the continuous seconds at six o’clock and the minutes counter at 12. The beautiful hands and the Breguet numerals, along with the horizontal brand name, provide deeply charismatic aesthetics. An ingenious slide has been placed at two o’clock on the caseband, enabling the crown to be blocked, preventing the user from inadvertently starting or stopping the chronograph.
The large double-hinged officer case houses a superbly decorated chronograph movement based on a Victorin Piguet ébauche and featuring a column-wheel cover, an element that has become a Patek Philippe signature ever since. It is interesting to note that the movement number is also engraved on the inner back cover.
Victorin Piguet is considered one of the world’s most important complicated movement makers, producing ébauches for some of Patek Philippe’s most sophisticated timepieces, such as the Packard and Graves Grand Complications. The ultimate rarity and historical importance of the present watch (in fact three similar pieces are already in the Patek Philippe museum) is further enhanced by the overall superb state of preservation, making this timepiece a true crown jewel to cherish for generations.
Lot 95: A Circa 1960 Rolex Oyster Chronograph 'Pre-Daytona' Ref. 6234 In Stainless Steel With Black Galvanic Dial
Estimate: CHF 200,000 - 400,000
First introduced in 1955, the ref. 6234 “Pre-Daytona” was, and still is, considered to be one of the most desired models within the Rolex Oyster Chronograph family. The present watch, with its well-preserved black glossy dial with tachymeter and telemeter scales and strong stainless steel case, clearly demonstrates why it's so sought-after.
While many glossy black vintage Rolex dials tend to age with clouding, bubbling, or other patina, the present dial is in an oustanding condition, fully maintaining its glossy sheen. On a graphic level, the dial design is a masterpiece: The telemeter and tachymeter scales frame the dial perfectly. Offered in extremely appealing condition, the present ref. 6234 is an excellent opportunity to acquire one of the most remarkable Rolex chronographs from before the start of the Daytona era.
Lot 161: A 1953 Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4072 In 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: CHF 15,000 - 30,000
Vacheron Constantin’s ref. 4072 is sleek, elegant, and one of the most well balanced vintage chronographs you'll find. In production from 1938 until the late 1960s, the ref. 4072 is a very diverse chronograph model. While most often cased in yellow gold, the reference was also dressed in pink gold, stainless steel, or two-tone steel and gold, coming with either olive-shaped or rectangular pushers, as seen on the present example. Research shows that only 108 examples of the reference 4072 in pink gold with the cal. 492 were ever made.
Lot 164: A 1949 Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 In Stainless Steel With Breguet Numerals
Estimate: CHF 300,000 - 600,000
The ref. 1463 is one of the very few vintage Patek Philippe chronographs fitted with a water-resistant case. Its robust case proportions, oversized chronograph pushers, and the fact that it is the closest thing to a vintage sport chronograph made by the brand have propelled the ref. 1463 to the apex of collecting. Indeed, the model was a “sportier” alternative to the less robust ref. 130.
Among the rarest and most desirable variations of the ref. 1463 chronographs are those cased in stainless steel. These cases were made by the étanche case specialist Frères Borges; the "FB" makers' mark is easily noticeable inside the caseback. Intriguingly, FB was the inventor of the first waterproof watch case (patented in 1892), and was so well known that when competitor Taubert purchased the firm in 1924, they retained the FB mark as it was so closely associated with high-quality watch cases.
Fresh to the auction market, the present piece elevates itself above and beyond a “normal” steel 1463, as it features a dial with applied Breguet numerals. No more than two dozen examples are known with this exclusive configuration – an astoundingly small number, especially considering the reference was in production for approximately 29 years.
Further, the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirms the Breguet numerals, and it goes on to state that the Breguet numerals are made of steel – a detail not normally found on other 1463s with the numerals. Normally, these numerals would be made of white gold, as its much easier to work with. The fact that steel numerals are used on a steel case shows to incredible length Patek Philippe went to ensure the absolute homogeneity of the watch’s aesthetics.
The dial is most notably is preserved in lovely and fully original condition, with all its original engraved/enameled graphics perfectly preserved and without scratches. Only a subtle ivory patina hints at the passage of time, amplifying the vintage appeal.
Lot 170: A Circa 1930s Rolex Ref. 2022 In 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000
This cushion-shaped watch is an exceedingly rare specimen. Of course, Rolex’s best-known chronograph model is the Daytona, followed by its precursors (6238, 6234, 6232, etc.). However, Rolex ventured into the realm of cushion-shaped chronographs, as well – a case design that was particularly fashionable between the 1920s and '30s.
The single-button configuration makes the overall ensemble even more streamlined and elegant, while the old-school “onion” crown – serving as an in-line chronograph pusher – amplifies the vintage charm of this fascinating watch. To put the rarity of it in context, consider this is only the second cushion-shaped Rolex chronograph to appear at Phillips, with the prior a ref. 2057 that sold in 2018. It intriguingly sported a very close case number: 12’272, only 229 numbers away from the present case, 12’043.
Lot 171: A Circa 1937 Rolex Ref. 2918 In Stainless Steel With Flexible Hooded Lugs
Estimate: CHF 25,000 - 50,000
Manufactured in extremely low numbers and only in stainless steel, the Rolex ref. 2918 showcases all the avant-garde aesthetics of the 1930s. Featuring oval chronograph pushers, unusually flexible lugs, and a glossy black dial, the revolutionary design of these “non-Oyster” chronographs, and the uncertainty of their commercial success, resulted in extremely low production numbers.
Standing out for its excellent overall condition, the present ref. 2918 features a beautiful glossy dial with two engine-turned sub-dials at nine and three o’clock respectively. The outer tachymeter and telemeter scales contrast with the black dial to give the watch an unexpectedly sporty and modern look. At 33mm in diameter, the case features a flat bezel, a snap-on caseback, and delightful hinged oval-shaped lugs.
Lot 173: A 1949 Patek Philippe Ref. 1579 'Anse a Ragno' In 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: CHF 100,000 - 200,000
Introduced in 1943, the Patek Philippe ref. 1579 exudes sophistication.Due to the fanciful lugs in the shape of briolette diamonds, this reference is most commonly referred to as the “Spider Lugs” chronograph. This unusual feature propelled it to eventually become one of the most impressive and memorable case designs of the 1950s.
However, the desirability of the present example reaches new heights thanks to its splendid "powder pink" dial and the Freccero retailer signature in the lower half of the dial. Freccero is a renowned South American retailer based in Montevideo, Uruguay, and is still in business to this day.
The collectability of the present ref. 1579 reaches tremendous levels thanks to the presence of the original Patek Philippe Certificat d’Origine et de garantie stamped by Freccero. Only four examples of the ref. 1579 in pink gold – including the present watch – have appeared on the market with the Freccero signature on the dial. Among these extremely rare pieces, only two of them have enamel indexes, and this watch is the only known example to come with its original certificate.
Lot 175: A 1952 'Pink-On-Pink' Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 With Two-Tone Dial And Serpico Y Laino Signature
Estimate: CHF 250,000 - 500,000
The legendary ref. 1463 is a pure chronograph wristwatch distinguished by its round pushers (in Italian, “tasti tondi,” which became the watch's nickname) and, most importantly, its waterproof case. Launched in 1940, and remaining in production until 1965, it was cased primarily in yellow gold, with few examples in stainless steel and even fewer examples in pink gold.
The rarity and collectability of the present watch is, however, a few steps beyond that of a “standard” pink gold Tasti Tondi. Indeed, it also features a salmon dial – making this a pink-on-pink example – with a sublime and very noticeable two-tone finish. Piling onto to this already breathtaking configuration, the watch was originally retailed by Serpico y Laino, as it proudly declares both with the extended signature on the dial, and with an extremely crisp S&L monogram to the caseback.
Long time collectors might remember this watch from the last time it appeared at auction over 30 years ago, in 1990.
Preserved in wonderful original condition of both case and dial, the present example is one of the most important specimens of this hallowed reference.
Lot 176: A 1940 Patek Philippe Ref. 530 In 18k Pink Gold With Astrua Torino Signature
Estimate: CHF 350,000 - 700,000
There are certain references in Patek Philippe’s production history that can be considered the ultimate in terms of rarity, desirability, and aesthetic beauty. The oversized chronograph ref. 530 is without any doubt, one such masterpiece.
Launched in 1937, Patek Philippe’s ref. 530 is one of the rarest and largest vintage chronograph wristwatches manufactured by the firm; its large 36.5mm diameter is just as relevant today as it was 80 years ago. Nevertheless, three elements, featured in the present chronograph, heighten the desirability even further on this grail watch: a perfectly preserved pink gold case, an ivory dial, and the prestigious Astrua Torino retailer signature.
Only 14 examples of the large ref. 530 in pink gold are known. The present watch is not only the earliest example identified but also is the only one known with the famed Turin-based retailer’s signature on the dial. Astrua was founded in 1860 in Turin, Italy, by Vincenzo Astrua to sell and repair pendulum clocks and pocket watches. It was one of a very few select firms privileged enough to put their name on a Patek Philippe dial.
The case has most likely never been polished, it is full and retains its original proportions. The satin and brushed surfaces provide an arresting contrast and the gold hallmark on the case flank is crisp. The unrestored dial has developed a tasteful ivory patina. The enamel Patek Philippe signature is crisp, with the comma and accent on the –E– of Genève all present.
Since its production in 1940, this watch has been offered twice before on the international auction scene – once in 2013, and another time in 2018. The appearance of a Patek Philippe ref. 530 on the market is always a special occasion, but to find one in such superb condition, cased in pink gold, and with a unique retailer signature makes the present watch a true celebration that should not be missed.
Lot 184: A 1945 'Pink-On-Pink' Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4178 With Meister Rio Signature
Estimate: CHF 30,000 - 60,000
The present Vacheron Constantin is an exceedingly rare example of a ref. 4178 that ticks many boxes for the savvy collector. It's a “pink on pink” example featuring an ultra-rare retailer signature: Meister Rio, from Rio de Janeiro, a company that is still in business today.
Launched in 1940 and in production until 1964, Vacheron Constantin’s ref. 4178 is the vintage chronograph that's most associated with the historic Swiss firm. Immediately recognizable for its gorgeous and inimitable teardrop lugs, the ref. 4178 is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful chronograph wristwatches ever made due to its balanced proportions and near-perfect symmetry.
The pink case and pink dial are both in excellent condition and give the watch incredible panache on the wrist. To the best of our knowledge, this is the only known example of a pink-on-pink ref. 4178 with the Meister Rio signature.
Lot 185: A 1930 Patek Philippe Ref. 130 Monopoussoir Chronograph With Multi-Tone Champagne Sector Dial, Cased In 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: CHF 200,000 - 400,000
It's hard not to be baffled by the intrinsic beauty of the present Patek Philippe. Its multi-tone champagne sector dial with small sub-dials and plenty of clean lines is simply unbelievable.
The ref. 130 chronograph was in production for almost 30 years, Patek offered it in stainless steel, yellow, and pink gold with a multitude of dial combinations, and as both traditional chronograph and a monopusher. The present watch is an early and rare combination featuring a single-button chronograph mechanism with a lovely multi-tone sector dial. The champagne dial features raised enamel printing, small sub-dials, and Patek's rarely seen long signature. According to the watch's first auction listing from 2007, it's believed to have been a special custom order by an individual or retailer.
Inside the watch is a superbly decorated chronograph movement based on a Victorin Piguet ébauche featuring a column-wheel cover, an element that has since become a Patek Philippe signature. Only three ref. 130 chronographs with horizontal sub-dials and a multi-tone sector dial are known.
The present timepiece dates to 1930 and first appeared at auction in 2007, offered by its original owner. It returned to the auction rostrum in 2013, and it has since remained in the same important Europe-based collection. That means the next owner will only be the watch's fourth in the 93 years since it was born.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII catalog here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
Recommended Reading
In-Depth: What is a Chronograph?
Compact Dimensions And Complicated Watches: A Look At Patek Philippe Under Philippe Stern