The PHILLIPS New York Watch Auction: X, takes place on June 8 and 9, 2024, at our Park Avenue headquarters. The auction includes more than 150 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including the wide variety of vintage chronographs featured below.
Lot 12: A 1971 Universal Genève Compax 'Exotic' in Stainless Steel
Estimate: USD $8,000 - 16,000
Universal Genève launched the Compax model fitted with audacious and vibrant “exotic” dials, with the reference 885.107 silver dial & 885.108 with a blue dial. The exotic series is not only much rarer than the already scarce panda variants, it is notable that this variant in silver is the rarest one of all with less than 15 examples known to have surfaced in the market. Fitted with racing red accents and a blue acrylic bezel with matching blue registers, the silver dial with the addition of a defined T-shaped matte silver shimmers in contrast, reminding one of the extremely attractive livery of an F1 sports car.
At the heart of the watch is Universal Genève's caliber 85, based on the famed Valjoux 72. Used in iconic watches such as early manually-wound Rolex Daytonas, the Valjoux 72 holds a paramount significance in the world of chronographs, revered for its exceptional quality, reliability, and robustness.
Offered in well-preserved condition with a most probably unpolished, the present Compax is a wonderfully rare and collectible timepiece for the collector of vintage chronographs.
Lot 40: A Circa 1969 El Primero Ref. G383 'Poker Chip' in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $8,000 - 16,000
Somewhat of a design anomaly even in the daring times of the late 1960s, the Zenith El Primero reference G383 was produced for only two years, from 1969 to 1970, in a limited series of 200 pieces. With a case similar to the G382 of the same era, it is set apart by its ostenatious dial design of radiating lines in black, window panes of gold paint, and alternating fan-like apertures dividing the inner dial. Its similarity to casino chips has led to the very fitting nickname "Poker Chip."
Unlike the original El Primero, which had a case diameter of 38mm, the “Poker Chip” case diameter clocks in at an unusually large 39.5mm. The charismatic “spider lugs” extending out from the case, and the flat, stepped bezel serve to further exaggerate its size. Within beats the El Primero caliber 3019 PHC: P for “power”, H for “hour”, and C for “calendar”.
Watch media platform SJX Watches reinterpreted the G383 in 2021 with a luminous dial cased in the 38mm Chronomaster case – a testament to the timeless appeal of the “Poker Chip”. The present lot is the first instance of Phillips offering the original model from 1970, a wild and wonderful example of 1970s audacity.
Lot 42: A 1969 Breitling Co-Pilot Ref. 7650 in Stainless Steel
Estimate: USD $12,000 - 24,000
Established in 1884, Breitling is best known for their aviation-related timepieces such as the iconic Navitimer. But the manufacturer was an early pioneer in the development of wristwatch chronographs, with their innovative tool watches supplying armed forces worldwide, as well as timepieces for racing, diving, and leisure activities.
The Breitling 765 Co-Pilot was created, as its name suggests, for airplane pilots, who benefited from an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o'clock and twelve hour rotating bezel. The Co-Pilot replaced an earlier reference 765 "Digital" that featured a digital minute's counter at 3 o'clock and incorporated an oversized minute counter fitted with large luminous indicators at each three minute increment. Legibility in low light conditions and accuracy were paramount in the creation of this Co -Pilot, and it was eventually even adopted for military use. In 1965, Breitling launched the reference 7650 Co-Pilot with a larger 42.5mm diameter case and rotating bi-directional black aluminum bezel with 12 hour markers.
The present ref. 7650 Co -Pilot is amongst the finest and best-preserved examples known, preserved in virtually new, unworn condition. The case retains all of its original and extremely sharp factory finished surfaces, while the “reverse panda” dial and original “sword” hands are beautifully preserved. Remarkably, the luminous bezel triangle remains intact and even the original strap with virtually no signs of wear is included. Dating from 1969, the chronograph is a “museum-quality” example of mid-20th century aviation tool watches that are highly desirable today.
Lot 43: A 1958 Longines Flyback Chronograph Ref. 6474-5 in Stainless Steel
Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000
Caliber 30CH is unanimously considered one of the best chronograph movements of the mid twentieth century. Incorporating a flyback function, the movement allows for the chronograph to be instantaneously reset and restarted, enormously useful for practical applications.
Such a hallowed engine is housed - in this instance - in an equally striking case. Standing out with a large, 37.5mm diameter, reference 6474 appears to have a relatively simple case architecture, but closer examination reveals a remarkable level of detail. The bezel, for example, features an incredibly complex construction. Starting from the dial edge, it features a sloped edge, followed by a concave area and then a sharp step. The transition between each of these three parts of the bezel is marked by sharp edges, of course highly sensitive to polishing. In this instance, however, the edges are perfectly preserved and very sharp, testament to the superior condition of this case.
The dial is no less charming. Very airy, it is defined primarily by the luminous numerals - now aged to a charming and intense camel hue. The only other graphical indications are the Longines signature and the outer baton fifth-of-a-second combined with Arabic five minute divisions. Such a sparse graphical layout anticipates trends that would become commonplace just a few years later in the 1960s and 1970s.
Lot 103: A 1942 Longines Anti-Magnetique Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5009 in Stainless Steel
Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000
The present lot is distinguished by its large case and stunning aesthetics that make it one of the most attractive vintage chronograph watches one could hope to own. Its two-tone silvered dial is timeless and masculine, yet at the same time, utterly beautiful and practical, with oversized registers and a blue outer tachymeter scale.
Housing the prestigious Longines caliber 13ZN with fly-back mechanism, it boasts an equally high-grade movement that is considered by many scholars to be amongst the ultimate chronograph calibers in terms of sophistication, design, and finish. Combined with its oversized case, outstanding state of preservation, and uncompromised quality, the example presented here is a true treasure for discerning collectors of vintage watches.
Lot 115: A Circa 1940 Eberhard & Co. Pre-'Extra Fort' Chronograph in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $8,000 - 16,000
During the mid-20th century, Eberhard & Co. gained recognition for its sports watches and chronographs, catering to the growing interest in functional timepieces such as chronographs. The brand's commitment to innovation was further exemplified by the launch of the "Extra-Fort" collection, known for its robust design and advanced features.
From a technical standpoint, Eberhard & Co. made a distinctive choice by outfitting the new model with a Valjoux 65 caliber. Notably, they implemented updated modifications aimed at accentuating its role as a professional instrument. A revolutionary feature for the time was the incorporation of a single push-button for both stopping and restarting the chronograph functions. Therefore, when the complication was active, pressing the pusher didn't reset the seconds sphere to zero but instead initiated a fresh measurement from the beginning.
The present example is preserved in outstanding condition and retains all of its original factory finishes on the case, even its original caseback sticker. To go along with the beautiful yellow gold case, the watch is also equipped with a complementary champagne colored dial. At 40mm, it boasted a truly substantial dimension for its era, providing the dial with a prominent role within the timepiece.
Lot 116: A 1941 Wittnauer by Longines Weems Second-Setting Chronograph in Stainless Steel
Estimate: USD $10,000 - 20,000
In 1927, Charles Lindbergh became the first person to fly non-stop between New York and Paris. A skilled aviator, Lindbergh was not proficient in navigation by the sun and stars, and made his historic voyage using dead reckoning, the process of calculating the current position of a moving object using a previously fixed position and incorporating speed, heading, and elapsed time.
As the aeronautics field grew so too did the demand for accurate methods of navigation and naval Captain Philip van Horne Weems was instrumental in early 20th century celestial navigation. His Weems Second Setting watch with a rotating center dial allows the seconds hand to be synchronized with a reference clock to enable navigators to determine longitude.
The present example was retailed on March 28, 1941 to Longines-Wittnauer, the Longines USA agent at the time, in accordance with the 'LXW' import code found on the movement. The 47mm case is in excellent condition, and the white enamel chapter ring is free from any visible defects, as is the rotating center dial. The watch is accompanied by the original numbered hang tag and Longines extract. Early 20th century tool watches are highly collectible both for their mechanical innovations, and for insight into the history of horology. The Weems Second Setting watch is a wonderful reminder of this period.
Lot 107: A Circa 1946 Rolex Oyster Chronograph Ref. 4587 in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $50,000 - 100,000
Launched in 1946, Rolex's reference 4537 was manufactured for a short period of time and is amongst the rarest of all vintage Rolex chronograph wristwatches. Cased in yellow gold, pink gold and stainless steel, this was Rolex's earliest three register chronograph wristwatch housed in a 36mm Oyster case with water-resistant pump pushers and a screw-down caseback.
Research suggests that Rolex produced no more than 100 watches with this reference, in both stainless steel and gold variations, and possibly less than a quarter of that in 18K yellow gold. Many of this watch's key design elements would later heavily influence the look of the first Daytona, such as the signature Oyster case, round pushers, and three subsidiary counters.
With a well-preserved dial displaying vivid graphics, the present reference 4537 is an exceptionally rare iteration of one of Rolex's most coveted complications – the chronograph.
You can view the complete Phillips New York Watch Auction: X catalog right here.