Welcome to our series highlighting the exceptional watches available through PERPETUAL, Phillips’ boutique service offering immediate access to the world’s rarest and most desirable timepieces. You can view all currently available watches by stopping in at our London headquarters at 30 Berkeley Square, or by visiting Phillips PERPETUAL online. Our new "Buy Now" button makes acquiring the watch of your dreams easier than ever.
– By Logan Baker
A 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak '50th Anniversary' Ref.16202PT in Platinum with Green Dial
Launched in January 2022, Audemars Piguet presented the new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, celebrating its 50th anniversary and ultimately replacing the reference 15202. Among the new variants in stainless steel, yellow gold, and pink gold, an exclusive platinum version was launched that would solely be sold at the AP Houses around the world.
Among all the metals used in watchmaking, platinum is among the rarest. It first appeared in the Royal Oak collection in the 1980s and can be identified as PT at the end of the reference number. Processing platinum, as well as finishing it, requires special craftsmanship due to its very dense, malleable, and ductile properties. Thus, it is no surprise that Audemars Piguet scarcely uses this precious material for anniversary timepieces and limited editions; and this last iteration, reference 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01 is all that one could wish for and more.
A faithful homage to the original reference 5402 and the 20th anniversary model 14802, the present watch maintains the same case proportions, with the biggest changes being the new inhouse calibre 7121. The development of this new movement took five years. It features an upgraded power reserve of 55 hours thanks to its larger mainspring barrel and is fitted with a new patented extra-thin quick-set date setting mechanism. Fitted with a sapphire crystal display caseback, one can admire the special anniversary oscillating weight in 22K gold that has been rhodium plated to match the colour of the platinum case. The ‘50 years’ rotor will only be fitted to the Royal Oak anniversary models delivered in 2022, making this piece even more special.
The satin-brushed finish of the case and bracelet contrasts perfectly with the vivid sunray green dial. A true chameleon depending on the light; the dial will captivate anyone who will lay eyes on it. The vibrant green shade is obtained by adding drops of green colouring to the protective varnish, growing from a deep forest colour to an electric green, providing the watch with depth and gravitas. The watch weights more than 250 grams providing its wearer with great presence on the wrist yet is very well-balanced.
The example available for immediate purchase via Phillips PERPETUAL comes with its original box and papers and has a price tag of £160,000.
A 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15202BC in White Gold with Salmon Dial
The Royal Oak has been synonymous with luxury avant-garde watchmaking for the past 50 years. It is a model that has spoken to collectors and enthusiasts for its revolutionary aesthetics for close to two generations.
Originally launched in 1972, the Royal Oak featured a 39mm stainless steel case housing the slim automatic caliber 2121 (which at the time was the world’s thinnest automatic caliber at only 2.45mm thick). The present example is a modern representative of this landmark collection of wristwatches. The reference 15202 was launched in 2000, and then again re-issued in 2012 in celebration of the model’s 40th anniversary featuring the applied “AP” logo once again at six o’clock on its dial, just like the original from 1972.
The reference 15202 was powered by the same caliber 2121, which in the modern version, contrary to the original model, can be admired through the sapphire caseback. Today’s collectors consider the reference 15202 as the modern “Jumbo” since it shares nearly all attributes with regards to case size, movement, and overall looks to the now iconic reference 5402.
The present example is a wonderful variation of the Royal Oak launched in 2019 with salmon dial, and now amongst the most sought-after versions of the reference 15202. Dating to 2022, the present Royal Oak reference 15202 is in nearly new condition, and accompanied by the guarantee, and presentation box. Produced in no more than 75 examples per year until discontinued, this is the perfect opportunity to purchase a highly limited and coveted timepiece. It's available now for immediate purchase for £110,000 from Phillips PERPETUAL.
A 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak '50th Anniversary Ref. 16202OR in Pink Gold
The year 2022, no doubt, was a big year for Audemars Piguet. It was exactly 50 years since the Royal Oak was presented to the world as their inaugural onslaught on a true luxury sports watch, cased in stainless steel. Gone with the old and in with the new; the ref. 16202 has replaced its predecessor, the ref. 15202, after a long and successful production run for over two decades.
The timepiece at hand is one of the four novelties that celebrates a new generation Royal Oak “Jumbos”:
- Ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01, in steel, on a steel bracelet, with a special anniversary blue dial
- Ref. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01, in pink gold on a pink gold bracelet, with a "smoked grey" dial (present example)
- Ref. 16202BA.OO.1240BA.01, in yellow gold on a yellow gold bracelet, with a smoked gold dial
- Ref. 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01 in platinum on a platinum bracelet, with a smoked green dial
Staying true to its roots, the ref. 16202 is essentially the ref. 15202, with a subtle facelift and a new beating heart. However, unlike its older siblings, the most significant upgrade is the new cal. 7121. In place of the seminal cal. 2121, the replacement is slightly larger and thicker than its original but the performance is enhanced across the board and compact enough to remain in a 39mm case that is only 8.1mm thick.
The present Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin, 50th Anniversary edition is complete with a 22K pink gold hollowed “50 Years” winding rotor is revealed through the sapphire case back. This rotor will only be included in watches produced in 2022, after which they will revert back to the ordinary rotor. Accompanied by its original accessories, this wristwatch will be a fantastic addition to any collection. It's available now for immediate purchase from Phillips PERPETUAL for £99,500.
A 2017 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15407ST in Steel with Skeleton Dial
While Audemars Piguet has produced some of the finest skeletonized watches over the decades, a skeletonized Royal Oak always impresses.
While it is well known that the balance wheel of a timepiece is its beating heart controlling accuracy, a common horological issue occurs when a watch with a single balance and hairspring is tilted vertically, with gravity pulling the hairspring off-center, hence affecting its accuracy. Taking a leap ahead, this issue was resolved with the ref. 15407, featuring two superimposed balance wheels, each equipped with its own hairspring.
While its technical attributes are certainly impressive, the look and feel of the timepiece does not lack excitement. Fitted inside a contemporary 41mm diameter stainless steel Royal Oak case, the skeletonized caliber 3132 is decorated to please with all bridges ruthenium-coated giving the entire movement a gunmetal sheen, with the exception of its golden balance bridge. While the majority of the movement is diamond-cut to perfection, the solid pink gold balance bridge is hand-finished with traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques.
The pictured watch is available now for immediate purchase from our Phillips PERPETUAL location in Gstaad, Switzerland. The price is CHF 115,000. Please reach out to PerpetualGstaad@phillips.com with any inquiries.
A Circa 2019 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15202BA in Yellow Gold with Champagne Dial
Launched in 2000, the Royal Oak ref. 15202 has become one of the most coveted watches of the past years. Mostly cased in stainless steel, the last time that a full yellow gold ref. 15202 with a matching gold dial was released back in 2012 to celebrate the model’s 40th anniversary. A success and praised by collectors, the brand decided to bring back the alluring yellow gold Royal Oak Jumbo during SIHH 2017.
With the recent discontinuation of the ref. 15202 in 2021, the rarest, non-limited production piece would have to be the example you see here today- the 15202 in yellow gold with a matching champagne dial. Released in 2017 and made for only four years in extremely low quantities, there is a certain old-school charm to a gold-on-gold watch that works so well for the Royal Oak.
The pictured watch is available now for immediate purchase from our Phillips PERPETUAL location in Gstaad, Switzerland. The price is CHF 115,000. Please reach out to PerpetualGstaad@phillips.com with any inquiries.
You can learn more about the above watches, as well as view all the currently in-stock watches, online at Phillips PERPETUAL.
Phillips PERPETUAL offers a boutique experience to clients for both the sale and purchase of fine and rare watches, in London’s Berkeley Square and the Gstaad Palace, in Switzerland.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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