A Collectors' Guide to Ressence Watches

A Collectors' Guide to Ressence Watches

Established by the Belgian industrial designer Benoit Mintiens in 2010, Ressence distinguished itself from the start not by following a playbook written by any previous watchmaker, independent or otherwise, but by rethinking what a fine wristwatch could be and reinterpreting the traditional watch display.

For all of the creativity, in-house manufacturing, and proprietary movement design and construction one sees today in high-end watchmaking, it is worth considering the extent to which most analog watches share essentially the same display type.

A 2018 Ressence Type 1² that sold for CHF 35,280 during the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, in November 2021.

With the groundbreaking ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System), Ressence established early on that it would show the time in a completely different way, yet one that was also highly intuitive – no easy feat. And while Ressence has received widespread validation from watch collectors and the horological cognoscenti, it comes as little surprise that it has also established itself as a maker of design objects with a following in the art and design worlds.

For over a decade, Belgian industrial designer and company founder Benoît Mintiens has chipped away at long-standing horological conventions with a vision toward advancing our understanding of the visual passage of time, through the company's one-of-a-kind orbital time display system.

Ressence watches are unique in the world of horology, known for their innovative timekeeping display and minimalist design ideals.

A circa 2015 Ressence Type 3 that sold for CHF 37,800 during the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XVI, in November 2022.

The company's originality is, of course, defined by the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). This is the company's singular representation of time – simply put, each intrinsic aspect of time (hours, minutes, seconds, etc.) is separated into individual sub-dials. Though isolated, these timekeeping registers work together to indicate the passage of time as a whole; the sub-dials rotate as satellites around the center of the watch.

Ressence watches also lack a conventional crown. Time-setting and winding are accomplished by rotating the case back, contributing to a cleaner and more ergonomic design. The unconventional display and setting mechanism may require a learning curve, but they offer a unique user experience that is unlike any other watch brand. Collectors should be prepared to embrace this uniqueness.

The minimalist and futuristic design of Ressence watches appeals to those who appreciate contemporary aesthetics. Their design ethos combines form and function in a seamless manner, making them stand out in any watch collection.

A 2015 Ressence Type 1 that sold for CHF 20,160 during the Phillips Geneva Retrospective Auction, in November 2020.

Notable Models:

  • Type 1: The Type 1 is the most traditional of Ressence watches, of which there have been several variations. The Type 1S – for slim – offers a more wearable case design, while the Type 1² features a cushion-shaped case profile The Type 1° Round, meanwhile, is the brand's signature watch. 
  • Type 3: Known for its oil-filled dial, which eliminates reflections and gives the appearance of the dial being displayed directly on the crystal. 
  • Type 5: A divers' style watch that also utilizes an oil-filled dial to enhance legibility underwater. 
  • Type 2: Features the e-Crown, blending traditional mechanical watchmaking with smart technology. 
  • Type 8: The Type 8 is the most affordable Ressence watch offered by the brand, featuring a time-only display. 
A 2020 Ressence Type 1SX that sold for CHF 27,940 at the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2023, Online Auction.

There is nothing quite like Ressence's horological perspective, and we've appreciated the Belgian brand's creativity and inventiveness since its earliest years.

The unique methodology Ressence brought to the world of independent watchmaking in the 2010s was undoubtedly one of the decade's many highlights, and the brand hasn't stopped refining and improving its avant-garde ideas and processes in the years since.


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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About Logan Baker

Logan has spent the past decade working in watch-focused media, reporting on every aspect of the industry. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.


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