By Logan Baker
There are watchmakers, and then there are watchmakers.
David Candaux, 45, is of the latter sort.
Even though watchmaking had been in the family for two generations, his father warned him to be sure he genuinely liked it, as it was a profession with no future at the time. Coming of age in the Vallée de Joux during the aftermath of the Quartz Revolution, they weren't sure if there would even be an industry for the younger Candaux to work in.
The Vallée de Joux is a region renowned for its centuries-old watchmaking tradition, and it is here that Candaux learned the intricacies of the craft from a young age. Growing up in such an environment, surrounded by the ticking of gears and the meticulous attention to detail that defines the craft, Candaux developed a deep appreciation for the art of watchmaking.
Candaux's destiny was secured early on, after he discovered a tourbillon wristwatch produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The mechanism fascinated him, and Candaux knew watchmaking was the only career for him.
Candaux graduated from the Joux Valley Technical School in the late 1990s and went to Jaeger-LeCoultre, where he initiated the restoration department in 1998.
He was placed in charge of the company's training program in 2001, and in 2004 joined the Technical Office for the development and the finalization of Grand Complications, where he'd work on masterpieces such as the Reverso Triptyque, the Master Minute Repeater, and the Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie.
After leaving Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2011, he worked behind the scenes at some of the most famous watch manufactures in Switzerland as a concepteur horloger, building movements that are among the most innovative and complicated in the world. Confidentiality agreements restrict his ability to share what projects he worked on during this time, but one well-known and publicized example is MB&F's HM6 Space Pirate.
Candaux finally went out on his own in 2017, gaining admission to the AHCI and establishing his eponymous company in Le Solliat. Independent watchmaking has diversified massively over the past two decades. Some watchmakers are only skilled in one aspect of the watch creation, working with industry suppliers to fill in the gaps, but Candaux is one of the few individuals that is able to claim responsibility for all aspects of his business.
What sets David Candaux apart from other watchmakers is his unwavering commitment to traditional craftsmanship, seamlessly blended with constant innovation in watchmaking. In an age where mass production and automation have become the norm, Candaux remains dedicated to the art of freely creating and innovating from a blank page to the handcrafting and assembling each timepiece. Every watch that bears his name is a testament to the countless hours of meticulous work and engineering that goes into creating a single timepiece.
Candaux's approach is rooted in the belief that a watch should be more than just a tool for telling time; it should be a reflection of the watchmaker's soul. This philosophy is evident in the innovative and intricate details that emphasize practicality and functionality, defining his timepieces, from the hand-polished components to the hand-engraved dials. Each watch is a unique creation, with no two pieces exactly alike, a rarity in today's watchmaking world.
While David Candaux is deeply committed to traditional watchmaking techniques, he is also a pioneer in innovation. His timepieces often incorporate cutting-edge technology, seamlessly blending the old with the new. This fusion of tradition and innovation is perhaps best exemplified by his flagship creation, the 30-degree inclined flying tourbillon, as well as by the titanium used in all his movements. For Candaux, titanium is the ideal material for modern watchmaking because, unlike nickel silver, which was once considered innovative due to its non-magnetic and stainless properties, it is also highly resistant, biocompatible, and a natural material, ensuring exceptional longevity for each timepiece.
David Candaux's 30° inclined tourbillon completes a full rotation once every minute, transversing through more positions in less time, offering a higher average performance. It's optimized for use in a wristwatch, improving precision and chronometric performance. The cage is made of only 27 components, with the cage and wheels made of titanium, ensuring a low inerntial rate.
The three collections that currently make up David Candaux's production consist of the DC1, the DC6, and the DC7; all three include his inclined 30-degree flying tourbillon and "magic crown" patented system. The DC1 Titanium is the most traditional, drawing inspiration from antique clocks with its off-center timekeeping display and large central seconds hand.
The three collections that currently make up David Candaux's production consist of the DC1, the DC6, and the DC7; all three include his inclined 30-degree flying tourbillon and "magic crown" patented system. The DC1 Titanium is the most traditional, drawing inspiration from antique clocks with its off-center timekeeping display and large central seconds hand.
The DC6 Titanium is Candaux's most popular creation, offering a bolder, more contemporary design language courtesy his handmade "Pointe de Risoux" guilloché pattern, which the wearer can feel by touch. Finally, the DC7, is the only model to use a classic central hour-and-minute hand, enhanced by the location of the tourbillon at 12 o'clock.
Candaux's innovation is not limited to the technical aspects of his watches; it also extends to the materials he uses. He often experiments with traditional craftsmanship by adapting to the properties of titanium. This extended process involves working with different woods, oils, and diamond pastes to achieve the desired tolerance and finish on unconventional materials, such as titanium and carbon fiber, to and create timepieces that are lightweight, durable, and visually striking. This willingness to push the boundaries of watchmaking has earned Candaux a reputation as an innovator in the industry.
David Candaux's work has not gone unnoticed in the world of haute horlogerie, but his work remains highly limited. Approximately 15 timepieces leave his workshop each year, where he works alongside his father and another craftsman.
Candaux has cemented a position as one of the leading watchmakers of his generation. However, despite this, he remains humble and focused on his craft. For him, the true reward lies in the satisfaction of creating something beautiful and enduring.
David Candaux is a watchmaker in the truest sense of the word.
His work embodies the essence of haute horlogerie, where artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation converge to create timepieces that are more than just watches—they are expressions of the watchmaker's passion and dedication. In a world where time is often taken for granted, Candaux reminds us that it is something to be cherished, measured not just in hours and minutes but in the artistry and craftsmanship that go into each tick of a finely crafted watch.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade working in watch-focused media, reporting on every aspect of the industry. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
Recommended Reading
Independent Watchmakers: The Bridge Between Vintage And Modern Collectibles
Meet Simon Brette, The Fresh-Faced Frenchman That Has The Swiss Watch World Buzzing