Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is excited to announce The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, taking place from 12:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 20, to 2:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 27. Featuring more than 135 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. It even includes the Paul Gerber Retro Twin featured in this article.
In the rarified world of independent watchmaking, names like Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, and Kari Voutilainen frequently dominate conversations. But within these hallowed circles of artisanal horology, there’s another name that resonates with quiet brilliance – Paul Gerber.
An unsung hero of the craft, Gerber's intricate and groundbreaking timepieces have garnered accolades from collectors and earned him a place in the Guinness World Records for creating one of the most complicated wristwatches ever made.
However, despite his monumental achievements, Paul Gerber remains a somewhat elusive figure in mainstream watchmaking discourse.
From Bern to Zurich
Born in 1950 in Bern, Switzerland, Paul Gerber's journey into the world of watchmaking began in earnest after he completed his apprenticeship. This early foundation, set in his father's watch and jewelry shop in Bern, would prove invaluable as he ventured into the more complex world of haute horlogerie. Moving to Zurich in 1970, Gerber established his own workshop by 1976, opening the doors to a future filled with creative and technical innovation.
Unlike many of his contemporaries, Gerber's reputation was not built on volume but on his unique ability to modify and create entirely new movements. His early pieces, such as the Retrograde model, already displayed a mastery of mechanical ingenuity that set him apart from many in the industry.
A Watchmaking Philosopher
Gerber is more than a watchmaker; he is an artisan of ideas. His ability to blend traditional watchmaking techniques with boundary-pushing innovations is perhaps his greatest asset. His first in-house movement, the Retrograde, featured the world’s first flyback retrograde seconds mechanism. This feature, previously unseen in the world of horology, laid the groundwork for what would become Gerber's signature style – timepieces that astonish not only in their craftsmanship but also in their intellectual depth.
The Retro Twin, an extension of the Retrograde, introduced a modified Peseux 7001 base movement paired with Gerber's revolutionary double rotor system. These twin platinum rotors could be seen through the sapphire caseback, allowing the wearer to appreciate the complex dance of mechanics that powered this extraordinary watch.
But Gerber didn’t stop there. His Model 33 took watchmaking to another dimension – literally – with a three-dimensional moon phase indicator. Set within a tonneau-shaped movement, this 6mm moon phase was accurate for 128 years an d showcased the pending patent for the "Paul Gerber Escapement." This escapement mechanism introduced a frictionless movement that optimally distributed energy for enhanced precision, further demonstrating Gerber's prowess in mechanical innovation.
The World’s Most Complicated Wristwatch
Gerber’s magnum opus, the "Superbia Humanitatis," earned him a place in the Guinness World Records for crafting the world’s most complicated wristwatch – a title that few others could hope to challenge. Starting with a base movement by Louis Elysée Piguet, Gerber spent 11 years adding complications that culminated in a breathtaking technical feat. Over 1,100 parts work harmoniously in this watch, which includes a split-seconds chronograph, a flying tourbillon, jumping minute counters, and dual power reserve indicators for both the movement and the chiming mechanism.
As Gerber reflects on this monumental achievement, he notes that the watch is “part of my life” due to the immense time and care it took to bring it to life. In collaboration with Franck Muller, this piece remains an icon of mechanical complexity and artistic expression, showcasing Gerber’s unparalleled ability to blend creativity with precision.
The Quiet Genius Behind the Craft
In an industry that often celebrates flamboyant marketing and commercial dominance, Paul Gerber remains a quiet, introspective figure. His modesty belies the technical brilliance and relentless pursuit of perfection that defines his work. His watches are not produced in the high volumes that many luxury brands churn out annually – in fact, each piece that leaves his Zurich workshop is imbued with a level of personal attention rarely seen in modern horology.
Gerber’s work has also earned him the Prix Gaïa from the International Museum of Horology (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a prestigious award that recognizes individuals for their technical and artistic contributions to horology.
His MIH Clock, housed at the International Museum of Horology, exemplifies his skill in blending traditional watchmaking techniques with modern technological advancements. The clock’s mechanism, which features unique complications, is entirely of Gerber's own design.
The Model 41 and Beyond
Not one to rest on his laurels, Gerber continued to innovate. His Model 41, a more recent creation, features an in-house manufactured automatic movement housed in either a 42mm 18k rose gold or stainless steel case. With a 100-hour power reserve and a novel three-rotor system, the Model 41 exemplifies Gerber’s philosophy of blending traditional craftsmanship with forward-thinking mechanical solutions.
Gerber’s Model 42 takes this idea even further. A sport watch cased in titanium, it builds on the triple rotor concept, using a base ETA 2824 movement that’s been heavily modified by Gerber to include a large date complication. Like many of his other creations, the Model 42 shows his ability to transform familiar components into something altogether unique and extraordinary.
Why You Should Care About Paul Gerber
While Paul Gerber’s name may not be as ubiquitous as some of his peers in independent watchmaking, his contribution to the craft is undeniable.
He is a visionary who not only respects the traditions of watchmaking but pushes them forward with each new timepiece. Whether it’s the world’s first flyback retrograde seconds mechanism or the most complicated wristwatch ever made, Gerber's creations stand as testament to the heights that independent watchmaking can reach.
For collectors and enthusiasts seeking a timepiece that merges technical innovation with the soul of traditional watchmaking, Paul Gerber is a name that deserves serious consideration. He may not be as widely known, but for those in the know, owning a Gerber watch is akin to owning a piece of horological history.
You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
Recommended Reading
Celebrating 15 Years Of The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
The Enduring Appeal Of Wolf’s Teeth Gearing In Fine Watchmaking