Our first live auctions of fall 2024 season, PHILLIPS RELOADED: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999, and the Geneva Watch Auction: XX, take place on November 8, 9, and 10, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47, in central Geneva. The auctions include more than 195 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think they're some of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next month, including the watches highlighted in this article.
– By Logan Baker
For a horological enthusiast, there are few things as captivating as a wristwatch with historical significance.
Omega, a brand that needs no introduction, is a staple of the watch world, combining precision, beauty, and reliability. However, when a timepiece transcends its mere mechanical excellence and becomes a link to a legendary figure, the story takes on a new level of intrigue. Such is the case with a pink gold Omega wristwatch once owned by Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia, which is set to appear on the auction block once again, during the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XX.
This extraordinary Omega, first sold at a Phillips auction in November 2015, for CHF 93,750, is now poised to attract even more attention as it returns to auction.
Not just a piece of finely engineered Swiss craftsmanship, this watch is a historical artifact – one that carries the weight of an empire on its delicate, ruby-set dial.
Omega: A Legacy of Prestige and Innovation
Omega's reputation as a premier watchmaker stretches back to its founding in 1848. The brand has long been synonymous with luxury and innovation, boasting numerous milestones: being the first watch on the moon, timing the Olympic Games, and producing some of the most sought-after movements in watchmaking history. Among Omega's many notable achievements is the production of its legendary Caliber 30 series, which powered many of its finest timepieces during the mid-20th century.
The Omega wristwatch owned by Haile Selassie is from 1949, a period marked by post-war optimism and technical advancement in the world of horology. Housed in a refined pink gold case, it is driven by the manual-wind caliber 30 T2 PC, a workhorse that has achieved cult status among vintage watch collectors.
This specific movement, part of Omega’s famous caliber 30mm family, is celebrated for its robustness and precision – traits that were essential for tool watches of the era, and yet here, elegantly adapted for a more refined, regal application.
The Details: A Watch Fit for an Emperor
This Omega wristwatch, which once graced the wrist of one of the most revered figures of the 20th century, is a masterpiece of understated elegance. The case, crafted in pink gold, is complemented by a silvered dial that shines with a subtle but captivating beauty. The dial layout is simple and functional, featuring a subsidiary seconds dial at six o’clock, as is characteristic of watches powered by the 30 T2 PC movement.
What makes this particular piece truly stand out, however, are the hour markers: a stunning combination of round and baguette-shaped rubies. These vivid red markers add a dash of imperial opulence to an otherwise restrained aesthetic, offering a visual cue to the wearer’s elevated status. The rubies, perfectly set against the silvered dial and the warmth of the pink gold, create a color palette that feels both timeless and unique. This is not merely a watch for telling time; it is a watch designed to command attention without shouting.
Adding to the watch’s allure is the engraving on the caseback, which features what are believed to be the initials and crown of Haile Selassie himself. While some engraved casebacks can feel impersonal, this one carries a direct link to the Emperor’s life and legacy. It’s a reminder of the man who, at the height of his power, wore this watch – a man who was not only the ruler of a nation but a global symbol of resilience, leadership, and progress.
The Life and Legacy of Haile Selassie
To understand the true significance of this watch, one must first appreciate the extraordinary life of Emperor Haile Selassie. Born in 1892, Ras Tafari Makonnen – later known as Haile Selassie – claimed lineage tracing back to Menelik I, the purported son of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. His ascension to the throne in 1930 symbolized a new era for Ethiopia, as he became the face of the nation’s modernization and its protector in an increasingly interconnected world.
Under his leadership, Ethiopia joined the League of Nations in 1923, and in 1924, Haile Selassie became the first Ethiopian ruler to travel to Europe. His reign, however, was not without trials. In 1936, during the Second Italo-Ethiopian War, the Emperor was forced into exile as Italian forces invaded his homeland.
In a now-iconic moment, Haile Selassie addressed the League of Nations in Geneva, delivering a powerful speech that would cement his legacy as a symbol of resistance against fascist aggression. His impassioned plea for international assistance helped secure British support, and by 1941, the Emperor had reclaimed his throne.
Haile Selassie spent the next several decades modernizing Ethiopia, instituting reforms in education, law, and infrastructure. In 1955, he introduced a new constitution, further centralizing his power while attempting to bring the nation into the modern age. Despite his efforts, however, the latter part of his reign was marred by famine, economic strife, and growing unrest. In 1974, he was deposed in a coup d'état, marking the end of the Ethiopian monarchy. The Emperor remained under house arrest until his death in 1975, but his legacy lived on, particularly in the Rastafarian movement, which reveres him as a messianic figure.
A Watch with a Complex Story
This Omega, delivered to Ethiopia in 1949 according to Omega’s Extract from the Archives, was worn during a pivotal period in Haile Selassie’s reign. It may have been on his wrist as he worked to modernize his nation, as he traveled abroad to represent Ethiopia on the world stage, or perhaps even as he pondered the challenges that would eventually lead to his downfall. What we do know is that this watch is more than just a timekeeper – it’s a witness to history.
The timing of the watch’s original delivery is intriguing, coming just a few years after the conclusion of World War II and the Emperor’s triumphant return to power. During this period, Omega watches were often chosen by individuals of stature and prestige, not only for their technical merits but also for their symbolic weight.
But for Haile Selassie, the watch was likely more than a tool. It was a representation of his sovereignty, a piece of Swiss craftsmanship that mirrored the forward-thinking and international outlook he strove to bring to Ethiopia. The fact that this Omega was chosen and worn by a man of his status elevates it beyond its material value, transforming it into a symbol of an era, a nation, and a leader’s ambition.
The Auction
As this timepiece heads to auction once more, its significance is multifaceted.
For collectors, it represents a rare opportunity to own a piece of Omega’s history – an exquisite example of the brand’s craftsmanship during one of its golden eras. The combination of the caliber 30 T2 PC, pink gold case, and ruby hour markers makes it a rare and desirable model even without its imperial provenance.
But what truly sets this watch apart is its connection to Haile Selassie. Few watches can claim to have been owned by a figure as influential and complex as the last Emperor of Ethiopia. This Omega is not merely a luxury object; it is a tangible connection to a man who shaped the history of an entire nation and left an indelible mark on the world.
As it comes up for auction, it will undoubtedly draw the interest of collectors and historians alike, each recognizing the unique blend of technical mastery and historical significance it offers.
For those fortunate enough to bid on this piece, they will be vying not just for a beautifully crafted Omega but for a chapter in the fascinating and complex story of Emperor Haile Selassie, a man whose vision, triumphs, and trials are all reflected in the ticking of a watch worn through the annals of history.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XX catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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