Our final live auction of the fall 2024 season, the New York Watch Auction: XI, takes place on December 7-8, at our Manhattan headquarters. The auction includes 180 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it’s one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll highlight several of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next few weeks, including the watches highlighted in this article.
Lot 2
Estimate: USD $5,000 - 10,000
The Rolex reference 5513 is an iconic dive watch and a defining model within the Submariner line. Introduced in 1962, the Submariner 5513 remained in production until 1989, marking an impressive 27-year run. Over this period, the model saw several modifications and upgrades, particularly in its dial design. Early versions featured glossy gilt dials with gilt lettering, adding a touch of vintage elegance. Later models transitioned to matte black dials, while near the end of its production, Rolex introduced a glossy black dial variant with luminous indices bordered in white gold. This final dial style remained until the reference was ultimately retired.
This 1985 Rolex Submariner reference 5513 features the final dial variant, distinguished by the development of “spider” lines across its glossy lacquer finish. These fine fissures, unique to certain 1980s Rolex models – particularly the Submariner and GMT-Master – have become highly sought-after among collectors. Each pattern is unique, adding a layer of individuality and historical charm to the watch.
This example is exceptionally well-preserved and comes complete with original accessories, including the guarantee and invoice from Boodle & Dunthorne LTD. As a classic among dive watches, this Submariner 5513 is a remarkable piece that would enrich any collection.
Lot 21
Estimate: USD $4,000 - 8,000
Tudor’s Oysterdate collection highlights the brand’s close ties with Rolex. Established in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor aimed to offer Rolex-level quality and craftsmanship at a more accessible price. Inspired by fields like aviation, diving, and motorsports, these watches are built with durable materials such as stainless steel and feature a bold, avant-garde design. Today, vintage Tudor models are highly regarded by collectors for their unique designs and historical impact on watchmaking.
The Oysterdate Chronograph collection debuted in the early 1970s with a sporty aesthetic suited for both commercial and recreational use. These models were distinguished by their larger 40mm cases, notably bigger than the 37mm Rolex Daytona of the era, and came with a variety of calibrated rotating bezels and bi-compax or tri-compax dial layouts. Among the most collectible is the “Monte Carlo” series, exemplified by the reference 7169/0 chronograph.
This model stood out with vibrant dial options in shades like orange, white, and gray, often paired with blue or black accents resembling a Monte Carlo roulette wheel, hence the nickname. As a second-generation model, it featured a 12-hour bezel for dual timekeeping. Powered by the manual-wind caliber 234, the Monte Carlo includes a date display at 3 o’clock and screw-down chronograph pushers similar to those on the Daytona.
Lot 30 (Part of the Ben Clymer Collection)
Estimate: USD $3,000 - 6,000
Universal Geneve is one of the families of watches that really helped me hone my eye as a collector. Fifteen years ago, there were so many on the market, and all of them affordable (with just one or two exceptions - primarily the A. Cairelli Oversized Split Seconds Chronograph). It became my favorite brand to collect – and I still have many of them – but as I enter a different era of my own watch interests, I thought it was time to let someone else have what I think is one of the best there is. This is a Polerouter, an original, in rose gold, that is virtually unworn, with hang tag and box. I purchased this watch at the Miami Antiques show many years ago – it is the only likely unworn watch I’ve ever purchased or owned – and I bought it really as something of an academic endeavor. I wanted to understand what a Polerouter would’ve looked like in period – with the incredible twisted lugs unpolished, its original strap and buckle still in place.
What’s more, and something I’ve always found interesting about this example, is the original caseback sticker that reads “Limited Edition”. I’ve long wondered where the very idea of “limited edition” watches came from – but I have to think this is one of the earliest uses of it, at least being referred to as such by the brand itself! I also happen to think that this example in rose gold with a glossy black dial, is one of the most beautiful watches of the period. – Ben Clymer
Lot 35
Estimate: USD $5,000 - 10,000
Glass prisms possess an enchanting quality, captivating viewers with their unique ability to refract and transform light. This fascination has spurred creative applications in both art and everyday objects. Cartier, famed for its luxurious Mystery clocks, also explored this fascination with its elegant prism clocks – testaments to the brand’s expertise in illusionism. This particular prism clock from the 1990s reimagines the original design, invented and patented by Gaston Cusin, a colleague of Maurice Couet, the creator behind Cartier’s iconic Mystery clock. Like the Mystery clocks, Cartier’s prism clocks use an ingenious optical illusion that makes the clock appear transparent, only revealing the dial at certain viewing angles, much to the amazement of onlookers.
This clock’s silver and blue color scheme channels the neo-vintage Cartier aesthetic, reminiscent of pieces like the lapis Tank Must de Cartier or the white gold CPCP Monopoussoir Tortue. It features a silver-plated case accented with lapis lazuli panels, creating a sophisticated and balanced look. The dial includes blue Arabic quarter numerals set against a silver backdrop, enhancing the refined appearance.
Visible only from specific angles due to the prism construction, this piece would be an exquisite addition to any Cartier enthusiast’s desk, offering a timeless blend of artistry, craftsmanship, and visual intrigue.
Lot 58
Estimate: USD $4,000 - 8,000
Made exclusively for the Italian market, this Breguet Jump Hour wristwatch, known as “ore saltanti” or affectionately nicknamed “saltarello” by Italian collectors, is one of only 50 individually numbered pieces produced starting in 1988. These watches were offered via a “souscription” model, a system reminiscent of Abraham-Louis Breguet's original pocket watches, which required a 25% deposit upfront, allowing the watchmaker to fund the production process.
While many of Breguet's historical souscription pieces were characterized by a single-handed dial – a design nod continued in this model – the inclusion of a jump hour complication with an automatic movement brings a modern touch to this classic design. The watch is housed in a traditional Breguet-style case featuring extended downturned lugs and a fluted case band, with an impressive 36mm diameter. This well-preserved example, with crisp hallmarks between the lugs, retains its original presentation boxes, making it a rare and exceptional find for collectors.
Lot 81 (Part of TimeForArt)
Estimate: USD $1,500 - 3,000
Why does watchmaking often adhere to traditional norms? The Anoma A1 challenges these conventions, offering a bold and experimental vision of design that breaks free from the established rules. Its sculptural form is a striking exploration of tension – between balance and imbalance, softness and sharpness, boldness and subtlety.
The watch's distinctive rounded triangular shape draws inspiration from a free-form table designed by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s. Anoma's journey with this design began when they first encountered one of these tables at an antique gallery in Paris. This moment of discovery sparked a deep connection, leading to the creation of the A1, where the table's form became the core inspiration for the watch's innovative design.
This unique timepiece, created exclusively for TimeForArt 2024, is a true embodiment of Anoma’s artistic vision. Designed in collaboration with Jas Rewkiewicz, the dial features an engraved pattern inspired by optical art, a movement known for using geometric shapes, patterns, and colors to create mesmerizing visual illusions. Anoma’s design process was especially influenced by the works of renowned artists Bridget Riley and Ferruccio Gard.
The dial showcases a sequence of subtly offset triangles, meticulously repeated to form a captivating optical illusion that adds a sense of three-dimensionality and dynamic light play. The pattern is engraved directly into the metal base, and the dial is then coated in black lacquer, enhancing its glossy finish and the perception of depth. Staying true to the artistic ethos of the watch, there are no brand signatures or indices, allowing the intricate pattern to command full attention.
Lot 95 (Part of TimeForArt)
Estimate: USD $5,000 - 10,000
For the 2024 edition, Massena LAB has created Petrichor, a one-of-a-kind timepiece in partnership with Swiss independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. With a diameter of 38.5mm, this stainless steel watch features a dial in a warm sable tone, finished with a sunburst effect that shifts in the light from umber to sandstone.
The name Petrichor refers to the unique, nostalgic scent that arises when rain falls on dry soil, derived from the Greek words “petra” (stone) and “ichor” (the divine blood of the gods in Greek mythology).
Petrichor is powered by a proprietary manual-wind movement, the M690, designed by Raúl Pagès for Massena LAB. The movement, beautifully finished with intricate hand-decoration, is visible through an exhibition caseback. As a pièce unique, Petrichor will not be commercialized or reproduced, making it a truly exclusive and collectible piece.
Lot 104 (Part of TimeForArt)
Estimate: USD $3,000 - 6,000
Unimatic has unveiled a groundbreaking addition to its collection: the Modello Tre Automatic Chronograph U3S-TFA, the brand's first-ever automatic chronograph. This reference, U3S-TFA, holds great significance, not only for its technical innovations but also as a true collector's item, produced as a one-of-one model that will never be replicated.
Crafted from stainless steel, the U3S-TFA features a robust 41.5mm case, embodying Unimatic's commitment to functional, minimalist design. Powered by the Sellita SW510 BH b automatic caliber, this timepiece seamlessly merges precision and reliability with the brand's signature understated aesthetic. The watch is completed with a solid stainless-steel bracelet, and the case, dial, rotor, and buckle all bear the Unimatic signature, underscoring the brand's unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and detail.
The U3S-TFA also features a ceramic bezel, which not only enhances its durability but also elevates the watch's sophisticated design. A transparent caseback provides a mesmerizing view of the intricate automatic movement inside, further adding to the appeal of this exceptional timepiece.
While Unimatic is known for its limited editions, the U3S-TFA is particularly unique. Numbered 1/1, this prototype marks a significant milestone in Unimatic’s relentless pursuit of innovation in modern watchmaking. Designed to be worn, appreciated, and admired, the U3S-TFA is more than just a functional chronograph – it is a true piece of Unimatic history, a one-of-a-kind creation that embodies the brand’s evolution into automatic chronographs.
Lot 154
Estimate: USD $3,000 - 6,000
The Carousel, created by Aniceto Jiménez Pita – a self-taught independent watchmaker and AHCI member since 2006 – is one of the eight models produced by his namesake brand. This exceptional timepiece showcases groundbreaking horology and expert craftsmanship, with its movement rotating on its axis via ball bearings, completing one full revolution every 12 hours. The movement’s inverted design reveals a skeletonized winding rotor, shaped like a driver’s wheel, on the dial side. Additionally, Pita’s patented Time-Setting Mechanism eliminates the traditional crown, allowing for time adjustments by rotating the case back, offering a more comfortable and innovative experience.
With fewer than 15 pieces produced annually, the present Pita Carousel features a pink gold case and a matte black dial. It is offered in pristine condition, complete with all original accessories, making it an exceptional addition to any collection.
Lot 162
Estimate: USD $5,000 - 10,000
Introduced in 1931, the Reverso has a fascinating history that perfectly blends functionality with aesthetics. The creation of this iconic model is tied to a story involving Swiss businessman and watch collector César de Trey, who, during his travels in India, attended a polo match at a British army officers' club. There, he witnessed an officer's watch glass break during play and was challenged to create a timepiece robust enough to withstand a polo match yet elegant enough for formal wear. The Reverso was born from this challenge, featuring a dial that could be flipped, and the exterior case served as a canvas for artistry, with options ranging from enamel to engraving and beyond.
Inspired by the burgundy enamel dial of the coveted Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin 1931 “Édition Spéciale Rouge,” the present Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds features a stunning lacquer burgundy dial. Paired with a matching Casa Fagliano leather strap, this timepiece is preserved in excellent condition and is offered with all of its original accessories, making it a remarkable addition to any collection.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips New York Watch Auction: XI catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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