Our final live auction of the fall 2024 season, the New York Watch Auction: XI, takes place on December 7-8, at our Manhattan headquarters. The auction includes 180 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it’s one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll highlight several of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next few weeks, including the watches highlighted in this article.
Lot 12
Estimate: In excess of USD $2,000,000
Introduced in 1992, Philippe Dufour's Grande and Petite Sonnerie wristwatch represents a monumental achievement in modern horology. After years of experience working with prestigious brands like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, and restoring vintage timepieces for private clients, Dufour set out to create something truly exceptional. His goal was to create a timepiece that would stand out for its innovation and complexity, ultimately producing the first-ever Grande and Petite Sonnerie wristwatch – a world premiere in horological craftsmanship.
Drawing inspiration from historical ébauches by Louis Elisée Piguet and other watchmakers from La Vallée de Joux, Dufour miniaturized the complex Grande and Petite Sonnerie mechanism, which chimes the hours and quarters in different modes, all the while maintaining incredible finishing quality. The painstaking hand-finishing work that defines Dufour’s creations is apparent in the sharp interior angles of the bridges, mirror-polished bevels, gilded gears, and intricate Geneva stripes that adorn the movement. These details set his watches apart and reflect his dedication to the art of watchmaking.
The present example, No. 07, is a particularly rare and unique iteration. It is the only open-dial Grande and Petite Sonnerie wristwatch ever made, with an exquisite sapphire crystal dial that allows the intricate movement to be admired from both the front and the back. The dial, which is applied in pink gold to the sapphire crystal, is a modern departure from Dufour’s more traditional designs, with a clean, minimalist layout featuring arrow-like markers and a curvaceous handset for improved legibility. The design echoes Dufour’s desire to create a watch that is both visually striking and functional.
What makes this watch even more significant is its unique case design, which hearkens back to the earliest models from 1992. The solid, hinged caseback and sonnerie switches placed on the side of the case – rather than hidden by a hinged bezel – further highlight the watch’s importance. This example, cased in sumptuous white gold, is the only one to feature this early-style hunter case and sapphire dial combination, making it an unprecedented piece in Dufour’s already limited and highly coveted oeuvre.
This timepiece, sold directly by Dufour to its original owner in 2016, is presented in impeccable condition with its original certificate and presentation box. It is an extraordinary example of Philippe Dufour’s craftsmanship and a true milestone in the history of modern watchmaking. The Dufour Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch is widely regarded as one of the rarest and most important models ever made, and the present example is a crown jewel for collectors of the highest caliber.
Lot 29
Estimate: USD $600,000 - 1,200,000
Introduced at Baselworld 2011, the reference 5208 debuted in platinum with a sophisticated sunburst gray dial. This model quickly gained admiration among collectors and was reserved exclusively for Patek Philippe’s most distinguished clients. In 2018, production of the platinum version ceased, paving the way for a new iteration in pink gold.
The case itself is an impressive fusion of tradition and modernity. Exuding elegance from every angle, this three-part case includes a slider on the left side and a single-button chronograph, reminiscent of vintage designs from the 1930s and 1940s. Modern touches, such as the hollowed lugs and the concave, polished bezel, bring a contemporary edge to its aesthetic.
This reference is driven by Patek Philippe’s in-house self-winding caliber R CH 27 PS QI, a mechanical marvel composed of 719 individual components. Inspired by the caliber CH 27-525 PS, which powers the split-seconds single-button chronograph ref. 5950, it includes an additional minute-repeater and perpetual calendar module. A complex lever mechanism, consisting of 15 individual parts, enables instantaneous calendar advancement. The watch’s minute-repeating function is powered by a “gong” encircling the movement, with two hammers striking it to produce a rich, resonant chime. Pink gold, considered by some manufacturers as the most resonant material, enhances the acoustics for an elegantly sonorous effect.
First offered publicly in 2021 at Phillips in Hong Kong, this particular watch originally belonged to Italian football legend Fabio Cannavaro, a member of Italy’s 2006 World Cup-winning team. Hailed as a national hero, Cannavaro began his career in Napoli’s youth league before rising to prominence as a star defender at Parma alongside Gianluigi Buffon. After a successful run in Serie A, where he played for Internazionale and Juventus, Cannavaro’s crowning moment came in the 2006 World Cup, where his remarkable defensive prowess earned him the moniker “Il Muro di Berlino” (“The Berlin Wall”) as Italy triumphed over France in the finals. Post-victory, Cannavaro joined the elite ranks at Real Madrid, furthering his legacy.
In near-new condition and accompanied by its complete set of original accessories, this reference 5208R returns to the market as demand for exceptional Patek Philippe timepieces continues to soar.
Lot 164
Estimate: USD $40,000 - 80,000
Audemars Piguet stands as one of the most revered names in watchmaking and is among the last remaining family-owned manufacturers in the industry. Although widely recognized today for the iconic Royal Oak line, the brand’s classical timepieces are equally outstanding, representing a fusion of design brilliance and technological innovation, crafted in strictly limited numbers. This dedication to artisanal quality and selective production connects Audemars Piguet directly to its storied history.
The present model exemplifies how the brand masterfully blends its rich heritage with modern watchmaking design. It showcases two of the most coveted complications in horology – the tourbillon and the minute repeater – housed within the elegantly retro-modern Jules Audemars case. This design pays homage to mid-20th-century classic cases while reimagining them through a contemporary lens. The dial is understated yet rich in character, with the exposed tourbillon taking center stage, subtly balanced by intricate guilloché detailing and an asymmetric hour chapter ring, giving the piece a unique yet timeless allure.
Lot 167
Estimate: USD $800,000 - 1,600,000
Making its first public appearance, this F.P. Journe Grande and Petite Sonnerie wristwatch is a possibly unique masterpiece, featuring a rare ruthenium dial. Previously sold examples by Phillips have had black dials, and while other dial variations exist, this is the first time a ruthenium dial has been seen. The Grande Sonnerie complication allows the watch to automatically chime the hours on the hour and the hours and quarters at each quarter-hour, while in Petite Sonnerie mode, it chimes only at each quarter-hour.
In 2000, shortly after launching his namesake brand and inspired by contemporary master Philippe Dufour, Journe set out to create his own Grande and Petite Sonnerie wristwatch. His goal was to design a watch that was foolproof against user error – a vision that became reality in 2006, following 10 patents and years of meticulous refinement. The Grande and Petite Sonnerie wristwatch was introduced to clients, typically with a white gold dial and a 42mm stainless steel case, engraved with the original owner’s name instead of a case number.
According to available records, fewer than 60 of these pieces were produced between 2006 and 2018, with occasional deliveries continuing as late as 2021 due to pandemic-related delays. Averaging only about four pieces per year, these watches were assembled by just two skilled watchmakers, each requiring three months to complete a single piece, as each watchmaker worked individually on the timepiece.
The design showcases F.P. Journe’s signature style: time is displayed on offset dials on the right, while an aperture to the left reveals the repeating gongs. The power reserve indicator sits at 12 o’clock, and a selector at 4 o’clock allows for switching between Grande Sonnerie (G), silence (S), and Petite Sonnerie (P) modes. The pusher at 2 o’clock activates the minute repeater.
To prevent damage from improper handling, Journe’s design ingeniously locks the crown when the gongs are active, and stops chiming if the crown is not fully screwed in. Additionally, the sonnerie is disabled in the final 24 hours of power reserve, ensuring the going train and chiming train, both powered by a single barrel, operate optimally.
This exceptionally rare wristwatch, a testament to F.P. Journe’s mastery, is certain to be the highlight of any collection of independent watchmaking and complications. Its unique ruthenium dial and original stainless steel bracelet make this an unmissable opportunity for collectors seeking an unparalleled timepiece.
Lot 180
Estimate: USD $800,000 - 1,600,000
Patek Philippe has consistently fascinated collectors with its technical mastery and mechanical artistry. In 2017, the release of the reference 5531R brought together two of the brand's most celebrated complications: the world-time and the minute repeater. This groundbreaking model, ref. 5531R, is notable as the first minute repeater that always chimes the local time. Recently discontinued in favor of a white-gold successor, the pink gold ref. 5531R-015 – with its stunning cloisonné enamel depiction of Geneva – is among only three ever produced. A closer look reveals the initials ‘A.P.’ subtly embedded within one of the map’s streets, a discreet hallmark of the cloisonné work crafted by the famed Anita Porchet atelier, a name synonymous with high artistry in watchmaking. Reflecting its significance, another example of the 5531R-015 graces the cover of Fabienne Reybaud’s notable book Patek Philippe: The Impossible Collection, published by Assouline.
The 5531R exemplifies Patek Philippe’s longstanding horological excellence. The world-time function has roots in the 1930s, pioneered by watchmaker Louis Cottier during the boom in global travel. Patek Philippe’s first world-time model, the reference 1415, featured a revolutionary rotating bezel in a compact 31mm case for easy time zone adjustments. This was followed by the iconic reference 2523, which offered a larger 36mm case and dual-crown design. A select few of these historic models also showcased cloisonné enamel dials with intricate map designs, providing the inspiration for the modern 5531R.
At the core of the 5531R is the in-house caliber R27 HU, first introduced in 1989 to celebrate Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary. Building on this legacy, the 5531’s movement integrates a minute repeater within an exceptionally slim 8.5mm profile. Its most remarkable feature is its ability to chime the local time displayed at 12 o’clock, made possible by a clever hour snail linked to the world-time mechanism. Additionally, pink gold is often considered ideal for enhancing the warmth and resonance of chimes, giving the 5531R’s minute repeater a rich, sonorous quality.
Fresh to market and in pristine condition, this World Time Minute Repeater is a true Patek Philippe masterpiece, combining extraordinary rarity, refined aesthetics, and complex craftsmanship.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips New York Watch Auction: XI catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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