- By Dominik Teichert
Since the 18th century, watches have been adorned with enamel miniatures and gemstones, blurring the line between watches and jewellery. However, in the early 20th century, watches became more technical, and the trend pointed to a more sober and geometric design. While bejewelled timepieces were mostly regarded to be for the female watch enthusiasts, this notion thankfully has changed in recent times and gem-set watches enjoy a popularity among all collectors, without distinction of gender, due to the impressive craftmanship and rarity of the luxurious materials.
The paradox of a sports watch with precious stones
The first gem-set Royal Oak was introduced in the late 70s, not long after the introduction of the first Royal Oak reference 5402ST. The fact that Audemars Piguet didn’t wait long to produce a diamond-set reference is a testimony of the maison to rapidly adapt to the market demands and does not shy back from innovation. You have to be somewhat daring to adorn a sports watch with precious stones. Some critics would even say that this alters the identity of the watch. However, I would say it is proof of the versatility and popularity of this legendary model. Gem-setting the Royal Oak was not an easy task.
Due to the ultra-thin size of the model, the diamonds initially had to be set around the rim of the bezel, instead of on top. This technical reason created a sparkling effect without overshadowing the emblematic screws. Diamonds were first choice for the Royal Oak, however, over the years, Audemars Piguet used various precious stones, such as emeralds and rubies. Moreover, the gem-setting was not exclusive to the rim of the bezel, and many variants with gem-set dial and bracelet saw the light of day. A beautiful example is lot 68, a unique Royal Oak Grande Complication fully covered in brilliant-cut diamonds and a mesmerizing dial inlayed with Mother of Pearl. (Lot 28, 58, 68)
The Royal Oak 8756
The first diamond-set Royal Oak was the model 8756 in yellow gold, derived reference from the first ladies’ model 8638, with 80 tiny diamonds set around the rim of its bezel.
In 1978, twelve watches of this reference were manufactured by Audemars Piguet, followed by 28 the following year and 23 in 1980.
Gem-set Royal Oak models, especially from the earlier days of production, are a rare find and very sought-after among collectors. On the rare occasion when one of these treasures finds its way to the auction room, the craze to snatch one up for one’s own collection is almost certain.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is therefore even more proud to present a broad variety of this Legend set with diamonds (Lot 37, 48, 52, 55, 64, 72, 75, 84), emeralds (Lot 28, 58, 87), in combination with the original Tapisserie dial (Lot 5, 11, 25, 46, 52) or precious hardstone dials such as Onyx and Mother of Pearl (Lot 35, 68). From references dating back to the 1970’s to recent years. One very exquisite and exceedingly rare model is Lot 72, a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 25659BA.
This stunning gem-set openwork perpetual calendar was made in only 4 pieces from 1988 to 1995. The present lot dates back to 1988, making it one of the first of this reference. Not only does it impress with the generously set diamonds, the openwork itself is a piece of art, with its gracefully engraved and openworked main plate with floral and leaf scroll designs, as well as the Audemars Piguet emblem which is artfully rendered into the decor via the sapphire caseback.
If you don’t want to miss the chance to call one of these gems your own, don’t forget to sign-up to The Royal Oak 50th Auction, taking place on 6 May in Geneva.