Jean Dinh Van

The French Vietnamese designer-jeweller, known for his sleek minimalist 70s style, was born in Boulogne to a French mother and Vietnamese father who was a lacquer artist, so that art and craft were in his blood. He studied in Paris at the École des Beaux Arts, and spent ten years working at Cartier, under the inspired direction of Jeanne Toussaint. However, very much a child of his time, he felt restrained by the traditions and formality of Cartier jewellery and in 1965 left to start his own business and launch his own collection.  His style was uncompromisingly minimalist, linear, streamlined and modern, with the informality and androgyny of the 60s and 1920s Modernist or Art Deco vibe that characterised the fashions and style of the 70s. Dinh Van made a particular impact with his dramatically different square ring, the outer square profile, angular, geometric yet also smooth and tactile.  He created a ring for Pierre Cardin, the fashion designer of the moment, the golden square silhouette enclosing two pearls, one black, one white, both of which moved freely, spinning, an expression of kinetic art. He also collaborated with Paco Rabanne, and created jewels for Cartier, including the gold architectural ring in this exhibition. In tune with the mood of the moment, he drew inspiration from everyday, utilitarian and often provocatively unexpected objects, like the razor blade and key ring. His most distinctive designs include Menottes, intertwined heavy metal links inspired by hand-cuffs, yet symbolising connections and relationships, the Pi Chinois, the open circle in 24 carat hammered gold, a symbol of infinity, and Serrure, the narrow bangles secured by a lock.  In 1976, Dinh Van opened his first boutique in the rue de la Paix, Paris and continued to develop and expand his signature style.  He retired and sold his company in 1998, but his name and his style continues today.