Audemars Piguet - Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 Geneva Friday, November 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1991
    Reference No: 25686PT
    Movement No: 346'881
    Case No: C84190 and 12/25
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: Platinum
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extrait de Registre confirming the Register date on June 27, 1991, copy of the original purchase invoice, service receipt and presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    A new perpetual calendar reference made from 1987 to 1993, reference 25686 was produced in 85 in steel, 70 in yellow gold, 43 in two-tone, 26 in platinum, and 9 in pink gold. Reference 25686 marked an important stage in the history of the model. For the very first time, the watch was fitted with an open sapphire caseback, revealing the openworked movement.

    There is so much more to the Royal Oak than meets the eye. Starting out almost 50 years ago as a wild bet to create a “sports” watch that cost more than classic gold timepieces, it is a model that has become one of the best selling leisure watches of the past years and an immediately recognizable icon.

    The Royal Oak is a timepiece that set the benchmark on many fronts. Not only was it the very first luxury sports watch when launched in 1972, it was also the very first luxury sports watch featuring a complication.

    The present watch is arguably one of the most precious and noble examples of the reference. It is crafted in platinum and it is number12 of a limited edition series of 25 pieces. It most notably is fitted with a "Mk 1" dial that does not display the leap year. Furthermore, it is preserved in excellent condition with sharp bevels, crisp hallmarks and good rigidity to the bracelet.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25686PT
A highly rare limited edition platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with Mk 1 dial, bracelet and copy of the original invoice, numbered 12 out of 25 pieces made

1991
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF150,000 - 300,000 
€160,000-320,000
$175,000-350,000

Sold for CHF196,850

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

 

Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999

Geneva Auction 8 November 2024