Bulgari - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX Hong Kong Saturday, November 23, 2024 | Phillips
  • Condition Report

  • Description

    View our Conditions of Sale.

  • Manufacturer: Bulgari
    Year: Circa 1971
    Movement No: 1'464'444
    Model Name: Serpenti Scaglie
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 426
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold, translucent orange and yellow enamel
    Dimensions: Serpenti head: 17mm width
    Signed: Case signed; Dial and movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre
    Accessories: Accompanied by Bulgari fitted presentation box and copies of original drawings and invoices confirming the sale of the present watch in 1971.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Bulgari created the Serpenti, a signature piece synonymous with the Italian brand since 1948. As one of the most recognizable designs in the luxury market, this iconic viper-inspired wrap-around bracelet features tubular links that were later transformed into highly coveted jeweled watches in the late 1960s. Notably, Elizabeth Taylor famously wore her one-of-a-kind diamond Serpenti bracelet watch while filming “Cleopatra” in Rome in 1962. Since then, Bulgari has released numerous variants of this signature bracelet watch, each offering something unique.

    The present example showcases orange and yellow enamel “scaglie” links that beautifully complement the yellow gold case, creating a coiled cuff that gently wraps around the wrist. Bulgari’s Tubogas technique allows for mobility and flexibility, becoming a hallmark method in the company's watches and jewelry. The scales are adorned with enamel, and this example is further engraved to enhance their lifelike appearance. Two pear-shaped emerald stones serve as captivating eyes, ensuring the snake draws attention from both the owner and onlookers alike.

    Behind the dial lies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s cal. 426, a petite movement with the winding crown conveniently located on the reverse, perfect for powering the watch.

    With copies of original drawings and invoices, this Serpenti could potentially be a custom order, allowing the client to choose the color and configuration of the scales. With its rich history in both jewelry and watchmaking, this piece has become emblematic of Bulgari’s brand. This exceptional work of art is sure to be a captivating conversation starter at any elegant dinner.

  • Artist Biography

    Bulgari

    Italian

    Originally from Kalarites, Greece, Sotirios Voulgaris emigrated to Rome because of Greece's rising poverty and difficulty separating from the Ottoman Empire. He set foot on Italian soil in 1880 with little money in his pocket and spent the next four years preparing what would go on to become Italy's oldest jewelry company. 

    In 1884, Bulgari opened its doors to the Italian people with its offering of jewelry and accessories. Bulgari's style takes from traditions in Greek and Roman craftsmanship to elegantly balance volume and subtlety. Later, in the late 1960s, Bulgari bridged classicism and modernity by introducing its seductive, now-iconic Serpenti collection of snake-shaped coil bracelets and watches. It is through its meticulous combination of influences that Bulgari has garnered an international and loyal high-profile clientele, which included Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. These Hollywood stars have immortalized the house's unique gem-adorned bracelets, necklaces and earrings in rounded forms. 

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851

An exotic and attractive lady’s yellow gold and translucent orange and yellow enamel wristwatch with emerald-set eyes, Jaeger-LeCoultre movement, integrated coiled bracelet and presentation box

Circa 1971
Serpenti head: 17mm width
Case signed; Dial and movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre

Estimate
HK$620,000 - 1,200,000 
€72,600-140,000
$79,500-154,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX

Hong Kong Auction 23 - 24 November 2024