Manufacturer: Bulgari
Year: Circa 1971
Movement No: 1'464'444
Model Name: Serpenti Scaglie
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 426
Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold, translucent orange and yellow enamel
Dimensions: Serpenti head: 17mm width
Signed: Case signed; Dial and movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre
Accessories: Accompanied by Bulgari fitted presentation box and copies of original drawings and invoices confirming the sale of the present watch in 1971.
Catalogue Essay
Bulgari created the Serpenti, a signature piece synonymous with the Italian brand since 1948. As one of the most recognizable designs in the luxury market, this iconic viper-inspired wrap-around bracelet features tubular links that were later transformed into highly coveted jeweled watches in the late 1960s. Notably, Elizabeth Taylor famously wore her one-of-a-kind diamond Serpenti bracelet watch while filming “Cleopatra” in Rome in 1962. Since then, Bulgari has released numerous variants of this signature bracelet watch, each offering something unique.

The present example showcases orange and yellow enamel “scaglie” links that beautifully complement the yellow gold case, creating a coiled cuff that gently wraps around the wrist. Bulgari’s Tubogas technique allows for mobility and flexibility, becoming a hallmark method in the company's watches and jewelry. The scales are adorned with enamel, and this example is further engraved to enhance their lifelike appearance. Two pear-shaped emerald stones serve as captivating eyes, ensuring the snake draws attention from both the owner and onlookers alike.

Behind the dial lies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s cal. 426, a petite movement with the winding crown conveniently located on the reverse, perfect for powering the watch.

With copies of original drawings and invoices, this Serpenti could potentially be a custom order, allowing the client to choose the color and configuration of the scales. With its rich history in both jewelry and watchmaking, this piece has become emblematic of Bulgari’s brand. This exceptional work of art is sure to be a captivating conversation starter at any elegant dinner.
Artist Biography
Bulgari
Italian
Originally from Kalarites, Greece, Sotirios Voulgaris emigrated to Rome because of Greece's rising poverty and difficulty separating from the Ottoman Empire. He set foot on Italian soil in 1880 with little money in his pocket and spent the next four years preparing what would go on to become Italy's oldest jewelry company.
In 1884, Bulgari opened its doors to the Italian people with its offering of jewelry and accessories. Bulgari's style takes from traditions in Greek and Roman craftsmanship to elegantly balance volume and subtlety. Later, in the late 1960s, Bulgari bridged classicism and modernity by introducing its seductive, now-iconic Serpenti collection of snake-shaped coil bracelets and watches. It is through its meticulous combination of influences that Bulgari has garnered an international and loyal high-profile clientele, which included Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. These Hollywood stars have immortalized the house's unique gem-adorned bracelets, necklaces and earrings in rounded forms.
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