Cartier - Jewels & Jadeite Hong Kong Tuesday, May 23, 2023 | Phillips

Jewels & Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 23 May 2023

    • Each designed as a flower basket, one set with sapphire, emerald and ruby flowers and accented by single-cut diamonds, the other set with ruby and emerald flowers, accented by single-cut diamonds and onyx, both with a carved rock crystal basket, mounted in platinum, numbered, one signed Cartier, width approximately 39 mm and 38 mm respectively.

      Accompanied by two authenticity expertise reports.
      附兩張鑑定證書

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Orient, particularly India and Persia, was a source of constant fascination in the West. Being the earliest and only source of diamonds at the time, as well as that of a fiery kind of red gem known as ruby, India evoked a mystique of opulence and splendor. India had fallen under the British crown’s government since 1858, thus there were frequent official travels and exchanges between London and this land in the Far East. It was also for this reason, that Jacques Cartier – the Cartier brother who was running the company’s London branch – forged close relationships with the maharajas.

    Aside from precious facetted diamonds and gemstones that the maharajas entrusted Cartier to transform in accordance with European fashion at the time, Jacques Cartier also brought back a huge quantity of cared emeralds, rubies and sapphires. These gemstones were incorporated into major pieces of the Maison and soon became a signature style. This interpretation of Indian style with polychrome theme depicting leaves, berries and blossoms is described as ‘Tutti Frutti’, a term that was later patented by Cartier in 1989. Tutti frutti jewellery has been popular among the most discerning collectors and are found in some of the world’s most important collections. They continued to fetch extraordinary prices at international auctions.

    The two flowerpot brooches are quintessential ‘Tutti Frutti’ style jewellery of the Art Deco period, employing rock crystal, a very popular material found on brooches, onxy and diamonds for the monochrome palette, and carved gemstones for their explosive colours. Each tutti frutti creation is completely unique and even these two brooches come as a pair, they are singular in their design and overtones.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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593

Cartier

Pair of Gem Set, Diamond and Rock Crystal Brooches, 'Tutti Frutti', 1920s

Each designed as a flower basket, one set with sapphire, emerald and ruby flowers and accented by single-cut diamonds, the other set with ruby and emerald flowers, accented by single-cut diamonds and onyx, both with a carved rock crystal basket, mounted in platinum, numbered, one signed Cartier, width approximately 39 mm and 38 mm respectively.

Accompanied by two authenticity expertise reports.
附兩張鑑定證書

Estimate
HK$480,000 - 680,000 
$62,000-88,000

Sold for HK$698,500

Contact Specialist

Charlene Lau
Head of Jewels, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2039
JewelleryHK@phillips.com

Jewels & Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 23 May 2023