Brilliant-cut diamonds totalling approximately 9.00 carats
With black onyx stripes
18 karat yellow gold
French assay marks
Signed Cartier and numbered 607030
Catalogue Essay
Aside from the iconic panther, Cartier is also known for other feline renditions in jewels, such as the tiger. The black striped patterns and majestic presence made it another icon. Barbara Hutton, granddaughter of Woolworth’s retail chain and a style icon of the 20th century, favoured the 'great cat' over panther and commissioned Cartier to design a clip brooch and earrings in onyx and yellow diamonds for her. This suite of jewels is now a part of the prestigious Cartier Collection.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.