Cartier - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa late 1980s
    Case No: A 105800, inside caseback stamped “1802, 3”
    Model Name: Baignoire Allongée “Maxi Oval”
    Material: 18K pink gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. Cartier 78-1, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Plated pin buckle
    Dimensions: 52mm length x 23.5mm width
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Not many watches are truly timeless, but when it comes to Cartier, their designs are as popular today as they were a century ago. Champions of elegant icons, the Parisian Maison took the world by storm with the introduction of the Baignoire in 1957, a model that was made to last beyond the peak of the “Swinging Sixties”. Shaping the history of traditional watchmaking with adventurous forms, the manufacturer steered away from their distinctive angular cases to a “bathtub” shaped wristwatch inspired by its unnamed predecessor from 1912.

    If the shape of the original Baignoire is daring, the out-stretched form of the Baignoire Allongée is downright audacious. Well-received among watch collectors, the successful second chapter of the model was born in 1973, sporting a slender oval case that was previously only ever produced by Cartier’s London and New York workshops. Elongated with an elegantly arched case primarily in yellow gold and sometimes white gold, the Baignoire Allongée is born to impress on the wrist.

    The present Baignoire Allongée is not your average example, surpassing its peers, the connoisseur will notice the warm red hue on its “Maxi Oval” case and the touch of red on its stubby crown. Crafted in pink gold and fitted with a finishing touch of a ruby-set cabochon crown, this specimen is a creation in the 1980s. The matte off-white dial is wrapped gracefully with long Roman numerals in black that cleverly fans out to form an inner circle (with the absence of the usual Chemin de fer) and proudly flaunts its Paris inscription. The movement is a Cartier signed 78-1 calibre based on the ETA 2512 that populates the maison’s timepieces during the era.

    Notably, this is the only publicly known example to be in this configuration and have been kept in a private collection for more than three decades. According to our research, there is only one other example that can be on par with the present one, the only difference would be its burgundy colored Roman numerals. Interesting fact, they are just one case number away from each other.

    Publicly known Cartier Baignoire Allongée “Maxi Oval” in pink gold
    Case No. Dial Circa

    A105799 Burgundy Roman Numerals 1989
    A105800 Black Roman Numerals late 1980s (The present example)

    Talking about the condition of this beauty, it is preserved in stunning condition, deep, crisp hallmarks are found throughout. A French Eagle hallmark on the caseband and further more a double French Eagle and a E ♪V hallmarks stamped on its caseback.

    Without a doubt, this is the perfect dress watch for the modern gentry as it wears not only comfortably on the wrist, but its rarity will sure be on collector’s radar.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

    View More Works

897

A highly rare, well-preserved and only-known pink gold oval wristwatch with black Roman numerals and ruby-set cabochon crown

Circa late 1980s
52mm length x 23.5mm width
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 240,000 
€14,400-28,800
$15,400-30,800

Sold for HK$571,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024