Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 1928 Movement No: 2'218'615 Material: Gold, enamel and jade Calibre: Manual, later Jaeger-LeCoultre movement, jewelled Bracelet/Strap: Silk cord Dimensions: 33mm diameter Signed: Dial signed Provenance: The Lindemann Collection, see Reflections of Elegance, Cartier Jewels from the Lindemann Collection, New Orleans Museum of Art, 1988, page 150.
Christie’s, Jewellery by Cartier, Geneva, 21 May 1992, lot 739 Literature: For a similar piece, please see Seal Pendant Watch illustrated in La Collection Horlogerie by Francois Chaille et Franco Cologni, page 178.
Provenance
The Lindemann Collection, see Reflections of Elegance, Cartier Jewels from the Lindemann Collection, New Orleans Museum of Art, 1988, page 150.
Christie’s, Jewellery by Cartier, Geneva, 21 May 1992, lot 739
Catalogue Essay
The illustrious maison of Cartier has long drawn creative influence from cultures across the globe. Louis-François Cartier's passion for philology and oriental languages instilled an enthusiasm for the exotic within the family, welcoming international aesthetics into their designs.
This ornate seal pendant watch, crafted during the luminous Art Deco era of the 1920s, represents a true convergence of Cartier's myriad international muses. Reminiscent of carved jade seals adorned with Chinese calligraphy, the bold gold, black and red palette reflect clear inspiration from Imperial China. A classic white dial provides richly contrasting depth with the black and red enamel on the case and the use of jade pieces connecting the watch and the pendant made of black silk cord.
This intriguing piece from circa 1928 embodies that creative continuum at Maison Cartier, seamlessly blending heritage with the avant-garde global spirit that captivated the landmark 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. An opulent yet miniature canvas, this seal pendant watch crystallizes Far East influences into a sublime Art Deco form. Its worldly essence remains as modern and magical today as in the era when exotic dreams first took flight at Cartier.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.
