“Cartier, qui fait tenir, magician subtil, de la lune en morceaux sur du soleil en fil.”
(A subtle magician, Cartier threads slivers of the moon on silken strands of the sun.)
—Jean Cocteau
Often characterized as the Golden Age of Prosperity, the 1950s was a remarkable time when we saw the “American Dream” reach its peak. Following the ravages of World War II, there emerged a desire to restore what had been destroyed. Industrial and economic booms ensued – and an exciting return of interest to the arts and culture.
In jewelry, Cartier’s designs of the 1950s epitomize the elegance and glamour of this post-war period. Popular jewelry styles of the time developed in rapport with Christian Dior’s ultra-feminine ‘New Look.’ The curved shoulders, cinched waists, and full skirts were emulated by all of the top ateliers of the time.
The resurgence of the classic Fringe Necklace paired perfectly. Made for day and evening, its articulated curved lines adorned the generous décolletage of the most glamorous ‘New Looks’ silhouettes.
Since ancient times, the fringe necklace had always showcased the evolving technology of goldwork. A masterpiece of this new era, Cartier’s Méandres-Bavoir Diamond Necklace highlights the technical feats of lightness and movement that were then emerging in jewelry making. Enhanced by brilliant-cut diamonds, its three-dimensional, gold metal plaques meander beautifully across the neckline in an enchanting swirl pattern. Its maker, Georges Lenfant, is the 20th century’s most celebrated master of goldwork. His trusted workshop was commissioned to manufacture designs for the most prestigious Parisian maisons, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boivin and Hermes. Among his great achievements, Cartier’s Méandres-Bavoir Diamond Necklace is a captivating piece of history and symbol of true luxury.