Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 1990s Case No: A114’697, case interior stamped 10’622 Model Name: Crash Material: 18K white gold and diamond Calibre: Manual, cal. 160, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 38mm overall length Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
Cartier has long been appreciated for their masterful craftsmanship and elegant designs. There are countless emblematic pieces manufactured by the firm, from their famed Flamingo brooch, to their classic Panthère collection, and their legendary line of classic elegant “Tank” watches, produced since 1917. The Crash watch, with its amazing, dream-like curved forms, is Cartier’s most radical watch design.
Since it was first released over 50 years ago, the Cartier Crash has become a market phenomenon and haute horlogerie icon. The design was unique and innovative, capturing the cultural vibe of the late 1960s. Its history remained a mystery until it was revealed by Francesca Cartier Brickell in her book “The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire”, where she explained that the design was the brainchild of her grandfather Jean-Jacques Cartier and designer Rupert Emmerson. The original Crash was released in 1967 by Cartier London and since then, very limited batches of the famed design were released throughout the decades until the present day. At the time Jean-Jacques Cartier was the head of Cartier London, and along with Emmerson, they modified a Maxi Baignoire Alongée to make it look as if the watch had been in a crash.
Due to the success of the model, Cartier over the ensuing years released re-editions of the original 48mm London version, such as the present 1990s gem-set series, or even skeletonized and enamelled versions in recent years. The present watch is the ultimate expression of Cartier’s exquisite style and feminine sophistication with the pavé diamond-set case.
Always in style and always in demand, the Crash is a wonderful unconventional timepiece and an homage to Cartier’s 20th century watchmaking excellence.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.