製造商: F.P. Journe 年份: 2015 錶殼號碼: 649-TN 型號名稱: Tourbillon Souverain 材料: Platinum 機芯: Manual, cal. 1403, 26 jewels 錶帶/ 錶鏈: Crocodile 錶扣: Platinum 尺寸: 40mm Diameter 簽名: Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed. 配件: Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certificate of Guarantee confirming purchase of the watch on February 24th 2015 with a special request green jade dial, two original invoices, product literature, polishing cloth, additional unworn tan crocodile strap, fitted presentation box, and outer packaging.
圖錄文章
François-Paul Journe introduced the Tourbillon Nouveau (reference “TN”) in 2003 to replace the previous Tourbillon (reference “T”) which had been in production since 1999. The TN remained continuously produced for nearly 15 years, between 2004 and 2018, until 2019 saw the introduction of the Vertical Tourbillon.
The Tourbillon Nouveau can be seen as a wholesale upheaval of the previous tourbillon movement. The brass movement was discontinued and replaced by a movement made entirely of 18 karat pink gold — a first for the watch industry. François-Paul also incorporated a deadbeat seconds (the secondes mortes spoken of on the dial) mechanism, further adding to the technical superiority for technical superiority’s sake. First implemented in the mid-seventeenth century, but not used in wristwatches until the mid-twentieth century, the seconds hand will completely stop as the escapement continues to beat, not moving until one second has elapsed - at which point it will advance to indicate the next second. This seems like a simple feature but requires a complex and precise mechanism to reliably stop and restart the seconds hand so that it does not move at the same rate as the vibration of the balance wheel.
But enthusiasts will be drawn to the most singular part of this watch: the dial, created by the in-house dial makers of F.P. Journe, Les Cadraniers de Genève with great skill and at great expense. Jade is rarely used in timepieces as at a certain thickness (or thin-ness), jade will crack, and it requires extreme care, skill, and artisanship to place in a watch dial. Though known for its importance in East and South Asian cultures, jade also possesses special meaning for Mesoamerican cultures and the Māori of New Zealand, where it is considered a taonga or “treasure” protected by the Treaty of Waitangi. The present piece of jade possesses a calming sea foam color, reminiscent of the warm and shallow waters of one of the Pacific islands. A close study of the dial reveals mesmerizing details, including how the printing of all text and graphics over the main jade dial appear to float above the surface.
According to our research, extremely small numbers of the TN were produced with jade dials in 38mm and 40mm case sizes. This is of course the latter, a 40mm TN delivered in 2015 to the present owner, who is offering it for sale for the very first time. It comes as the full package, with original certificate, purchase invoices, product literature, extra strap, and presentation box.
Founded by watchmaker François-Paul Journe in 1999, the F.P. Journe brand is relatively young, but already is as highly regarded by collectors as many distinguished manufacturers with centuries-old heritage. In the minds of the world's savviest collectors, Journe is producing some of the finest wristwatches the market has ever seen. Mastering his craft from restoring historical timepieces, he was the first to create a wristwatch incorporating two escapements that benefit from the phenomenon of resonance — the Chronomètre à Résonance.
Key models include the Résonance, tourbillon wristwatches incorporating a remontoir and the limited edition Vagabondage series. Especially sought-after are his earliest "souscription" watches, made in 1999.
