Patek Philippe - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1958
    Reference No: 3417
    Movement No: 728'894
    Case No: 2'605'756
    Model Name: Amagnetic
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels, stamped twice with the Geneva Seal
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Patek Philippe pin buckle
    Dimensions: 35mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and numbered envelope. Furthermore delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1958 and its subsequent sale on October 19, 1959.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Before the launch of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe only produced two references that were only available in stainless steel: reference 3418 and 3417. Both launched in 1958 with an anti-magnetic caliber 12-400, they were upgraded with caliber 27AM400 as of early 60s.

The need for anti-magnetic wristwatches started in the mid-1950s, with brands such as Rolex being commissioned by the CERN to produce a watch for their scientists. The trend was soon followed by other renowned Swiss brands such as Patek Philippe wishing to offer their clients an accurate timepiece that would resist strong magnetic fields. A number of features make Patek Philippe’s vintage anti-magnetic wristwatches highly coveted. The movement is shielded from magnetism with a soft-iron inner case, designed to resist magnetic fields up to 450 oersteds. By necessity, the case is designed for maximum robustness using stainless steel and fitted with a screwdown, water-resistant caseback.

Aside from its technical interest, the design of the 3417 is a pure marvel of elegance and refinement. Simply decorated with white gold baton indexes coupled with baton hands and complemented by style-matched Bauhaus 12, the linear and clean configuration of the dial is cleverly contrasted to and enhanced by the handwritten-style of the Amagnetic designation, arguably one of the most romantic and aesthetically appealing of al Patek Philippe production - also in strong contrast with the utilitarian nature of the watch.

    The dial design features an evolution, with at least 5 main Series - each one with minor sub variations - known.

    - Series 0 dials feature engraved/enamelled graphics.
    - Series 1 dials feature a larger second subdial, applied indexes slightly closer to the center of the dial with the underlying baton minute marker eft visible between the edge of the dial and the marker, and the second “I” of PHILIPPE is equally spaced between the L and the P.
    -Series 2 dials - such as the present example - feature a smaller minute counter, indexes close to the edge of the dial, and the “I” of PHILIPPE markedly closer to the L than to the P.
    -Series 3 dials are the only ones featuring pearl minute divisions rather than baton.
    -Finally, series 4 dials feature luminous graphics.

    Offered in superb condition of both case and dial and even accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin, the present piece - appeared at auction for the first and only time at Phillips in 2016 - is a remarkable opportunity for the collector of rare timepieces.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 3417
A very rare, extremely desirable and very well preserved stainless steel antimagnetic wristwatch with certificate of origin

1958
35mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF50,000 - 100,000 
€53,200-106,000
$58,100-116,000

Sold for CHF120,650

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024