Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1972 Reference No: 1680 Movement No: D239401 Case No: 3'225'662 Model Name: Submariner Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 205mm Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp Dimensions: 40mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated March 5, 1974 stamped C. Colombo, second guarantee, wallet, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging. Literature: The present watch is illustrated in the second volume of Rolex Submariner, Sea-Dweller and Deepsea by Guido Mondani Editore, pages 14-18.
Catalogue Essay
Making its debut in 1967, the reference 1680 was the first Submariner to be fitted with a date function. Early dial variations of the reference display a "meters first" depth rating and the single line of red "Submariner" script, hence the name “Red Sub”. Highly sought-after, these rare divers watches with a dash of red mark an important milestone for this utilitarian tool watch and are beloved details by vintage Rolex collectors.
The present watch is fitted with a Mk V dial characterized by a "Feet First" designation with "Submariner" in red directly on the dial. The dial is preserved in excellent and attractive condition, with charming patina on the luminous markers that matches the hands. Furthermore, the case is preserved in excellent and impressive condition with crisp bevels and sharp finishes. It is complete with its Rolex guarantee dated March 5, 1974, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.