Not just a blueprint for modern dive watches, the Rolex Submariner is an icon that has cultivated a large following dedicated to every variant and slight modification from its first iteration, which appeared in the Rolex catalogue in 1953, to the present day. The Submariner ref. 1680 was launched in 1967. Being the first of its kind to be fitted with a date function, the not-so-inconspicuous date window sparked a heated controversy among watch aficionados that is still aglow today.
As seen on the present timepiece, early dial variations of the reference display a ‘meters first’ depth rating and a single line of red ‘Submariner’ script, resulting in its nickname, the “Red Sub”. Deemed a cult favourite among collectors, these rare Submariners with a pop of rouge mark an important milestone for this sports model.
Of the seven different iterations of "Red Submariner" dials, established by the scholars of the community, the present example is fitted with a rare and exceptional Mark I "meters first" dial that was produced between the 2.07 million to approximately 2.20 million serials. This is distinguished by its elongated closed 6’s, distinctive overhanging "f" in the depth rating, and the red lettering of Submariner printed over white. Both the luminous material and the dial itself have aged beautifully. Extenuating its vintage appeal, the lume plots and hands have developed a lovely light creamy hue, and the dial remaining untouched and uniform.
Moving onto the bracelet, the present set is stamped “9315” and “280” on endlinks, rendering it the highly sought-after “Patent Pending” variant. In correspondence to the present example, the clasps on this type of earlier bracelets are further engraved with an inscription ranging from “67” to “70”, and are more desirable for their rarity amongst vintage Rolex collectors.
The ref. 1680 is a landmark wristwatch for the Rolex brand and bearing a 2.12 million serial, this beautifully preserved Submariner from circa 1969 is a fine example.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.