Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1990
    Reference No: 18239
    Movement No: 5’026’900
    Case No: E199’887
    Model Name: Day-Date
    Material: 18K white gold and diamonds
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K white gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Rolex concealed folding clasp
    Dimensions: 36mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Day-Date ref. 18239, introduced in the late 1980s, marked an important evolution for the storied model. Along with other contemporaneous references, the ref. 18239 incorporated upgrades that enhanced both robustness and practicality - hallmarks of the Rolex brand. Most significantly, it was powered by the new cal. 3155, Rolex's first movement to feature a double quick-set function. This mechanism allowed for rapid adjustment of both the day and date indications via the crown - a major convenience for wearers.

    By the late 1980s, the Day-Date had already cemented its status as an enduring icon following its debut in 1956. Nicknamed the "President's Watch," it had accrued prestige and renown as the timepiece of choice for presidents, CEOs, and dignitaries across generations. Consequently, any changes to such a historic reference from Rolex were bound to generate interest amongst collectors and aficionados.

    And interest has certainly flourished in recent times, as the Day-Date enjoys resurgent popularity among modern collectors. The present ref. 18239 from circa 1990 with a “E” serial number embodies an excellent example of unpolished case with sharp edges. Its sunburst silver dial harmonizes elegantly with diamond-set indexes, conveying subtle luxury. Sleek and versatile, this Day-Date exemplifies the enduring appeal of Rolex's masterful design.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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1045

Ref. 18239
A fine and well-preserved white gold wristwatch with center seconds, day, date, diamond-set indexes and bracelet

Circa 1990
36mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$78,000 - 155,000 
€9,300-18,600
$10,000-19,900

Sold for HK$139,700

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024