Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1945 Reference No: 3525 Case No: 380’234 Model Name: Oyster Chronograph Antimagnetic Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Manual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex riveted stretch Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold deployant clasp, stamped Rolex and Gay Frères Dimensions: 35mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed. Literature: For another example of a reference 3525 however cased in 18K yellow gold and stainless steel, see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 84.
Catalogue Essay
A milestone wristwatch within Rolex's storied legacy of chronographs, the reference 3525 was launched in 1939 and remained in production for less than 10 years. Produced in yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel, or the combination of stainless steel and yellow gold, the reference 3525 was Rolex's first chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case - equipped with a water resistant screw down case back along with screw down crown.
This late-production example, evidenced by the serial number between the lugs, retains its original "Brevet" Oyster crown and is in overall wonderful condition. The dial with straight printing at 12 o'clock typical of later examples, is incredibly attractive, with a vividly preserved blue telemeter scale contrasting wonderfully with the gold bullet-shaped indexes and yellow gold handset. The serial number between the lugs and hallmarks on the underside of the case are extremely crisp and well-preserved.
Adding a luxurious element to an already superb example, the bracelet is an early, extensible, straight-end link Oyster bracelet manufactured by Gay Frères for Rolex. At the time dubbed “the bracelets which are most frequently copied” by the company’s advertisements, Gay Frères continued to produce remarkably well-engineered and now-iconic bracelets for Rolex and other manufactures for most of the 20th century. At a certain point in the 1970s, the Gay Frères factory employed over 500 specialized employees, the largest in Geneva.
We are truly excited to present such a beautiful example of an early Rolex Oyster chronograph, rarely seen in 18K yellow gold.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.