Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: X New York Saturday, June 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1965
    Reference No: 1601
    Movement No: D’035’947
    Case No: 1'148'970
    Model Name: Datejust
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K white gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, 185 mm. maximum length, end links stamped 53
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Rolex folding deployant clasp stamped Rolex SA, 2.67
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Datejust stands as an enduring icon within the horological world, embodying both timeless elegance and technical innovation since its introduction in 1945. As the world's first self-winding wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o'clock, the Datejust revolutionized the watch industry by combining features such as the waterproof Oyster case and the “perpetual” self-winding movement. With its ability to effortlessly transition from formal occasions to everyday wear, the Datejust has become a “must-have” staple in the collections of watch enthusiasts.

    The present example cased in white gold is made ever more appealing by its unique tropical lacquered dial, a feature that captivates with its clear reflection of the passage of time. Typically, a tropical dial is achieved through different exposures to various environmental elements. In this case, the dial has transformed from black to a very warm caramel brown.

    Fitted on a period 18 karat white gold Jubiliee bracelet, the present Rolex reference 1601 in 18 karat white gold with a tropical dial not only adds a touch of vintage charm but also enhances its value as a cherished timepiece with a story to tell.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1601
A fine and rare white gold wristwatch with "tropical" black lacquer dial, sweep center seconds, date, and bracelet

1965
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$20,000 - 40,000 
CHF18,100-36,300
€18,500-37,100
HK$156,000-312,000

Sold for $30,480

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
watchesny@phillips.com

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: X

New York Auction 8 - 9 June 2024