製造商: Rolex
年份: Circa 1969
型號: 1680
機芯編號: D'590'911
錶殼號碼: 2’412’924
型號名稱: Submariner
材料: 18K yellow gold
機芯: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
錶帶/ 錶鏈: 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max approx. length 215mm
錶扣: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, marked “18K” and “Hecho in Mexico”
尺寸: 40mm Diameter
簽名: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed. Clasp further signed “Hecho in Mexico”.
配件: Accompanied by two additional bracelet links.
圖錄文章
The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the first Submariner model fitted with a date function. Soon to follow in 1969, Rolex introduced the first Submariner to be produced in 18K yellow gold. The model would eventually be produced with an option of either a blue dial with blue bezel insert or black dial with black bezel insert, like the present model.

Preserved in most probably unpolished condition, the present 1680 in 18K yellow gold is fitted with a so-called “nipple” dial (or “bicchierini”, Italian for “little cups”), for the conical gold markers with a small lume-filled opening at the top. Though the earliest gold Submariners are characterized by a “meters first” dial, beginning around the 2.4 million serial number, the designation was reversed and subsequent dials would be printed “feet first”, like the present watch which bears an early 2.41 million serial number.

Adding interest and rarity, this reference 1680 is accompanied by a very rare 18K yellow gold President bracelet marked “Hecho in Mexico”. Denoting its fabrication in Mexico under the specifications of Rolex, this President bracelet was most certainly a special order at the time of original sale considering the bracelet’s endlinks are perfectly shaped for the case.
藝術家簡介
Rolex
Swiss • 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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17

Rolex

型號 1680
勞力士，罕有、精美，黃金自動潛水員鏈帶腕錶，備「nipple」錶盤、中心秒針、日期顯示、「Hecho in Mexico」鏈帶。

Circa 1969
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed. Clasp further signed “Hecho in Mexico”.

估價
$20,000 - 40,000
CHF18,100-36,300
€18,500-37,100
HK$156,000-312,000

成交價$38,100

聯絡專家

Paul Boutros
美洲區鐘錶部副主席暨部門主管
+1 (212) 940 1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com

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紐約拍賣主管
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: X

紐約拍賣 2024年6月8至9日

The New York Watch Auction: X

紐約拍賣 2024年6月8至9日

圖錄文章

藝術家簡介

Rolex

17

Rolex

型號 1680勞力士，罕有、精美，黃金自動潛水員鏈帶腕錶，備「nipple」錶盤、中心秒針、日期顯示、「Hecho in Mexico」鏈帶。

The New York Watch Auction: X

型號 1680
勞力士，罕有、精美，黃金自動潛水員鏈帶腕錶，備「nipple」錶盤、中心秒針、日期顯示、「Hecho in Mexico」鏈帶。