製造商: Urban Jürgensen 年份: Circa 1990 機芯編號: 097-100 錶殼號碼: 4120 型號名稱: Reference 2 材料: 18K yellow gold 機芯: Automatic, cal. FP 71, 35 jewels 錶帶/ 錶鏈: Leather 錶扣: 18K yellow gold 尺寸: 38mm Diameter 簽名: Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed. 配件: Accompanied by a Urban Jürgensen Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the present watch in 1990.
圖錄文章
The wristwatches produced during the rebirth of Urban Jürgensen as a brand in the 1980s and 1990s epitomize the marriage of old and new in a way that breathed fresh life into contemporary watchmaking. New owner Peter Baumberger, with his partner, the much-heralded English watchmaker Derek Pratt, set out to rebuild the brand still committed to the original tenets of technical excellence, traditional aesthetics, and handmade master craftsmanship. In all likelihood, this watch, one of a limited edition of 100 pieces, was completely executed by hand by Derek Pratt himself, including the fabricating and finishing of the dial.
Aesthetically, it can be considered a pinnacle of elegance: the satin outer track with Roman numerals and simple minute divisions frames the clean guilloché center. The indication for day, date, month, and moon phases are symmetrically placed: the windows for day and month horizontally; the subdials for moon phases and date vertically. Subtle aesthetic details, at first glance easily missed, work behind the scenes to achieve the final effect: the windows do not feature simply sloped sides, but rather are recessed inside the dial. The subsidiary dials feature a different guilloché pattern than the dial center. The amount of craftsmanship involved in the multiple engine-turnings of this dial is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As a matter of fact, the master artisan is not allowed to pause during the execution of the engine turning, as even the subtlest difference in the environmental condition or in the constant pressure applied during the process can produce a slightly different result. This would lead to two different finishes for two different areas of the dial, which would ultimately force the maker to discard the plate and start from the beginning.
An ultra-slim, Fredric Piguet-based automatic perpetual calendar movement is beautifully finished with a 21 karat gold winding rotor. Featuring a perfectly proportioned 38mm case with classic teardrop lugs, the perpetual calendar features German day and month indications. An integral part of the history of 20th century independent watchmaking, the present Reference 2 feels at home as easily in 1980 as in 2022.
