Manufacturer: Vacheron Constantin Year: 1927 Case No: 405'967 Material: Platinum and diamonds Calibre: Mechanical, 18 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Platinum and diamond-set bracelet, 155 mm. maximum length Clasp/Buckle: Platinum and diamond-set concealed folding clasp Dimensions: 14.7 mm. width Signed:Movement and dial signed, case signed CHIAPPE Accessories: With Vacheron Constantin fitted presentation box.
Catalogue Essay
This incredibly fine and luxurious lady's bracelet watch features scissor-cut and transitional-cut diamonds, which are set incredibly closely together. The hinges are very fluid, attesting to the superior craftsmanship of this bracelet watch. Particularly during the 1920s and 1930s, Vacheron Constantin created movements and dials of the highest quality, and sent them to retailers to be fitted onto the most lavish cases and bracelets.
Research suggests that the movement and dial was delivered to Italian retailer Chiappe, who created and retailed exquisite jewelry. Under the helm of Filippo Chiappe (1863-1936), the maison was appointed court jeweler to the Savoy House. The firm was also the official supplier to the Italian Royal Family in 1913.
Filippo Chiappe is one of the most famous Italian jewelers of his time, eventually handing his business down to his nephews. Having studied at the Academy of Arts in Massa, Italy and he then traveled to Alger and Paris to hone his skills. Chiappe returned to Genoa to direct the jeweler Vassallo and subsequently founded namesake firm soonafter.
During the early 20th century, platinum was especially favored by jewelers due its beautiful luster and flexibility, enhancing the diamond's refractive properties. Platinum is highly tensile, especially in relation to silver or white gold, enabling the metal to be heavily set with diamonds.
The world's oldest watch brand in continuous operation since its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin was the first watch company to manufacture movements with interchangeable parts beginning in 1839. Vacheron's watches are admired for their Latin-influenced case designs, well-balanced proportions and exquisitely finished movements of the highest quality. The Geneva-based manufacturer is known for their highly complicated masterpieces, including the King Farouk Grand Complication made in 1935, the Tour de l'Ile that was the most complicated serially produced wristwatch when introduced in 2005 and the 57260 — the world’s most complicated watch — made in 2015.
Key vintage models include minute repeating wristwatches such as the references 4261, chronographs such as the references 4178 and 6087 and the oversized Cioccolotone models such as ref. 4737. Collectors also appreciate Vacheron's Chronometer Royal pocket and wristwatches, as well as the '222,' the brand's first luxury sports watch produced from 1977 through 1984.